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stripped oil drain screw fix???????

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The oil drain screw on the front of my frame and the oil pressure check screw on the side of my engine are starting to strip. Does any body know how I can fix them with out drilling and re-tapping. I don't want to drill and re-tap because all of the metal will get into my frame and engine. Any ideas?

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They both leak very little. If I clean them good, two days later there will not be any drips but if you take a clean rag and wipe them there is oil. They seep more than leak. While riding, just a small amount of dirt get stuck to the oil. If I take a rag and try to uncrew them, I cant come close to taking them out, but with a wrench the will spin with lite presure.

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The frame drain bolt on my '05 WR250 stripped out on the first oil change, dealer stated they had three do the same at their shop.

Anyway, I did wind up putting in a time-cert since I could do exactly what you are saying, with just a little pressure it turns and mine never got totally tight although it did not leak, more seepped like you said.

The time-cert has held up well but I have actually started draining the frame oil by disconnecting the bottom oil line at the motor which is not a big deal since you remove it anyway to clean the frame screen filter during each oil change. This way I do not have to chance the time-cert failing and having to put another one in. I also found this is really a neater way to drain the oil since the oil flows out much slower than out of the frame drain.

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When I stripped my oil filter bolt I put in one of those self tapping bolts. It has held up about 10 changes so far.

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Do a google search for time-cert or helicoil they are both similar.

Both are thread inserts. You do have to drill out the old threads which is a little scary since you are putting a big hole in your frame, but if you go real slow and grease the crap out of the bit with wheel bearing grease you should have no problem with the shavings. I also took out the frame screen after doing it and poured oil through a few times. I then filled with oil, ran for a short time, and drained like three times. I never saw any "shavings" in the frame screen or the Scotts metal oil filter.

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Does anybody know the thread size and pitch for the frame oil drain bolt. I know the head is 12 and I think the threads are 10mm / 1.25. Can somebody confirm this.

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Does anybody know the thread size and pitch for the frame oil drain bolt. I know the head is 12 and I think the threads are 10mm / 1.25. Can somebody confirm this.

it is listed in your service manual. you can take the bolt to home depot. they have a chart to go by. you screw the bolt in and it givees you the pitch. i had a gas tank bolt break off on me. luckily there was some sticking out and vise grips got it out. it was cross threaded. i bought a metric tap and die set and some new bolts, allen head steel. no problems since.

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A time-sert is the way to go. Your local bike shop should have the size you need. See what they want to do it & then price out the kit to do it yourself. They are a good thing to have in your toolbox!

A tip if you DIY, the inner threads of the time-sert are tapered(tight) slightly near the bottom I guess so it will flare out & bite on the outside to hold it? Most holes on a bike don't have enough wall thickness to take advantage of this so just run a tap though it once the red loctite sets up.

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I was in the auto parts store last week and came upon a product that was some sort of epoxy. You put it in the hole and then treaded your bolt in and when it dried you had new threads. It claimed to be able to withstand someting like 150 ft/lbs of torque and 300 degrees Fareheight temprature wise.

I've never tried it but it may be worth a shot before you go through all the trouble of putting an insert in. And if it doesn't work then not much is lost.

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