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Race Tech = Poor service!

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Well the first time I called they did not know the answer to my question and said they would call me back. They never did. The next time I called THAT person was out at lunch, she will call me back in a half. They never did. I have called them 4 times for support and it isno surprise to me now that each time they have not been able to answer my question. I just called and the person I need to talk to is not there. They asked me if I wanted them to call me back and I told them that we have done that exercise 3 times and I have never had a call back. Her reply was, "Ok, so you will call back later." :thumbsup::ride::applause::applause::applause:

Kevin

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Your complaint is not unique. Sorry to hear you had to find out the hard way.

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Well the first time I called they did not know the answer to my question and said they would call me back. They never did. The next time I called THAT person was out at lunch, she will call me back in a half. They never did. I have called them 4 times for support and it isno surprise to me now that each time they have not been able to answer my question. I just called and the person I need to talk to is not there. They asked me if I wanted them to call me back and I told them that we have done that exercise 3 times and I have never had a call back. Her reply was, "Ok, so you will call back later." :thumbsup::ride::applause::applause::applause:

Kevin

So what was your question?

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I have had more then one question for them. I have had to find the answers from other sources.

The question I have now is that the shim stack I have in there now does not seem to be acting correct. For my weight it should be on the soft side but it is harsh. I have pulled the base valve out several times along with the mid/ rebound valve and all is in there correctly. (mid now a check plate). There is no clamp shim as with all other shim stacks. Most clamp shims are .2 mm thick but they start off with the stack at .1mm shims and go from there. That makes the 1st shim in the high speed stack a clamp shim not a valve shim and limits the amount the high speed stack can deflect. My ride is harsh in the high speed area. My question is, am I missing the clamp shim or does the stack start off with a .1mm shim????? I have had the springs rates calibrated and they are good. Now can you see why the person I want to talk to is always out to lunch? :thumbsup:

Kevin

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Are you saying that the last and smallest shim on your base valve is .1mm thick and will limit to what the shim stack can deflect because it's not .2mm thick? If that's the case .1mm is not going to make any difference and shim stacks don't deflect as far as people think they do anyway's, especially on the later showas(if thats your question).

You might want to try putting your mid back in and save your self a lot of head scratching. Just a thought though. :thumbsup:

You could also post your stack and let others that have had some luck with racetech chime in...

What kind of bike do you have anyway's?

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i agree...race tech is piss poor. they did my forks and ruined them. my 14 yr old nephew could have done a better job. ended up giving them to schmidtt suspension(i think he is in perris,ca)..hooked em up. it was so nice,had him do the rear shock...best investment i've made

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your not telling me anything new

race tech=bag of shit

pro action on the other hand was who saved the day for me.

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FWIW: Y'all do realize that Terry Hay is the RT guy in Oz, don't you?

If not, you may want to be a little more specific as to whom the complaint is with, since Terry is one of the most helpful and "conversational" tuners you'll find.

He started posting on here recently and I think you'd rather have him as an ally.

I feel certain that if he read your question about a specific RT stack and the issues you were having with it he would readily offer up advice.

:thumbsup:

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FWIW: Y'all do realize that Terry Hay is the RT guy in Oz, don't you?

I know that TH is a stand up guy....he had helped me a few times on KTMTalk......before I was kicked off that is.

Kevin

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race tech works on mass numbers of forks/shocks a day, they dont take the time per order to do good work like the lil mom and pop shops or other small local susp shops

should that be an excuse for poor work and/or poor service?

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Goneyellow, why don`t you try going a couple of stacks softer on your RT chart and see if that helps. I have GV`s and this has helped me. Also, RT stacks end with .10mm shims. Maybe lowering your oil hieght 5 to 10mm will also help with harshness. Just a thought.

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Gone Yellow

I would be only to pleased to assist you with your problems. I will require the following information.

Bike model

Your weight

Current spring rates

Sag

GV type (1, 2, G2r)

Current valve stacks

Oil weights and heights

Details of specific problems you are encountering.

Terry

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See now that is customer service. We need more Terry's, JWs, JCs and others like them around.

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I have had more then one question for them. I have had to find the answers from other sources.

The question I have now is that the shim stack I have in there now does not seem to be acting correct. For my weight it should be on the soft side but it is harsh. I have pulled the base valve out several times along with the mid/ rebound valve and all is in there correctly. (mid now a check plate). There is no clamp shim as with all other shim stacks. Most clamp shims are .2 mm thick but they start off with the stack at .1mm shims and go from there. That makes the 1st shim in the high speed stack a clamp shim not a valve shim and limits the amount the high speed stack can deflect. My ride is harsh in the high speed area. My question is, am I missing the clamp shim or does the stack start off with a .1mm shim????? I have had the springs rates calibrated and they are good. Now can you see why the person I want to talk to is always out to lunch? :thumbsup:

Kevin

I'm sure that Terry will be able to give you some specific as to what to do, but the only thing I wanted to add was that sometimes a fork that moves around too much is often mistaken for a fork that is too stiff. Often, more damping makes the ride smoother and about the only way you can test for this is to monitor the movement of the fork over a known obstacle.

In other words, if you're getting eight inches of movement from going over a three inch bump, you may detect this as a fork that feels stiff.

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Hey Terry, thanks up front for the help. I trust you see my frustration is with the post sale service not the product.

My weight is 235 to 240.

Woods riding.

GV1

o3 RM250

Oil is Motul 5w

The front is harsh and 2 or 3 inch roots will cause the front end to skate over the ground. I am also light on rebound. I think this is due to stiffer springs but I purchased the bike used and I know there was some suspension work done and the rebound stack could have been changed. The stack in there now is 5@23x.1 / 13x.1 / 20x.1 /18x1.5 / 16x1.5 / 14x1.5 / 12x1.5 / 10x2.5

Springs are .46. I went to a local RT shop and had the rate checked and they comfirmed the rate accurate. Preload is 9.5mm and not the 8mm RT specks. When I do the sag I get 35mm static and 78mm rider sag. I think that is odd because all the spring generators any .48 would work but I am not getting enough rider sag to start with. I put o-rings on the tubes so I could moniter the travel I am using and I do not think I am riding low in the travel. At first i thought the low rider sag was from sticktion. When I mount the do all the work to keep it from binding and I get very little sticking, in fact when I push down on the forks the bike will rebound and then settle some

Stacks are cl8 / ch3. Oil level is 120 down. I measured the oil the RT way, that is bleed out all the air and pull the outer tube all the way up so the oil dumps into the inner tube.

thanks again

Kevin

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See now that is customer service. We need more Terry's, JWs, JCs and others like them around

Agreed :thumbsup:

Kevin

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Hey Terry, thanks up front for the help. I trust you see my frustration is with the post sale service not the product.

My weight is 235 to 240.

Woods riding.

GV1

o3 RM250

Oil is Motul 5w

The tront is harsh and 2 or 3 inch roots will cause the front end to skate over the ground. I am also light on rebound. I think this is due to stiffer springs but I purchased the bike used and I know there was some suspension work done and the rebound stack could have been changed. The stack in there now is 5@23x.1 / 13x.1 / 20x.1 /18x1.5 / 16x1.5 / 14x1.5 / 12x1.5 / 10x2.5

Springs are .46. I went to a local RT shop and had the rate checked and they comfirmed the rate accurate. Preload is 9.5mm and not the 8mm RT specks. When I so the sag I get 35mm static and 78mm rider sag. I think that is odd because all the spring generators any .48 would work but I am not getting enough rider sag to start with. I put o-rings on the tubes so I could moniter the travel I am using and I do not think I am riding low in the travel. At first i thought the low rider sag was from sticktion. When I mount the do all the work to keep it from binding and I get very little sticking, in fact when I push down on the forks the bike will rebound and then settle some

Stacks are cl8 / ch3. Oil level is 120 down. I measured the oil the RT way, that is bleed out all the air and pull the outer tube all the way up so the oil dumps into the inner tube.

thanks again

Kevin

What sag measurements are you trying to get to? What you posted looks pretty good to me? :thumbsup:

Clicker settings both comp & rebound would help.

What shock spring, sag, clicker settings?

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What sag measurements are you trying to get to?

Lew I thought more like 100mm would be what I should have. Clickers all over the board. I started out with 10 rebound 12 comp. I put everything back last night with oil down from 110 to 120? Just out of curiosity why did you ask about the shock. Will a poor working shock caus the front to skate and be harsh? One more thought...would this be a symptom of a bent inner tube?

Kevin

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. Will a poor working shock caus the front to skate and be harsh?

Kevin

It sure can. At 235-240 lbs. it can be difficult sometimes (especially for woods) to spring your bike stiff enough to get your so called perfect free & rider sag numbers. If your rear sag is more than 100-105 mm's (which my guess would be) then that can deff. contribute to frt. end problems.

If those .46's are to stiff feeling then you could possibly have fork bushing/tube or R/S fork alignment problems or the rear to soft.

What rear spring do you have?

doc

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