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Dust in the air boot!

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Did an extremely dusty ride last weekend and after taking the filter off discovered dust is getting in. It was an almost new twin air, heavily oiled with no toil and I used filter grease. Are there any areas on the Husky airboot that could leak? I put a flashlight in it last night and could not see any holes but I think I need to pull the boot off to make sure the shock spring has not rubbed through.

Should a filter ever let dust through? It seems it should just reduce airflow as it gets really dirty but never let it past. The filter was filthy. I guess I could try filter skins and seal up the airbox. The airbox is really open for an enduro bike so I know I need to seal it before winter anyway.

Bike is an 02 WR250

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Never had an issue with any of my WR250's passing dust. I use the spray on PJ1 and no lip grease. I rode the two day Idaho ISDE qualifier on both my 99 WR250 and my 02 WR250 and at the end of the two days the filter had a half inch of mud like dust / oil combo but the inside was sparkling clean. If your getting your filter on right then I would look at the boot to box connection and see if there is a miss fit there that needs sealed. I have a lot of experience with the WR250 and several of my friends ride them as well, never seen this to be an issue. Maybe you simply did not get the filter on without it popping off somewhere? :thumbsup:

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thanks, I guess I will pull the boot and airbox tonight and take a very close look at everything.

Ride - you asked me to email you a couple of times but then never got back to me. Did you get my emails?

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I pulled the airboot out last night and inspected everything very closely and found no problems. The carb vents might be sucking a little dust but I don't know if that would lead to dry dust all over the air boot. The only thing that looked kind of wrong was I noticed the no toil on my filter was runny. It was oiled 10 days before the ride but the oil was wet and not that tacky. I seem to remember in the past my filter cage would be very sticky from oil but now it is just runny. I tested some belray filter oil on a piece of foam and it was stickier. The no toil bottle I used was about 2 years old but I did shake it quite well. I don't know if the stuff goes bad or not. There was also a good amount of red liquid in the airbox. It could be premix but I think it's no toil. I completely submerge my filter in oil and wring out the excess to make sure it is covered, I am not aware that too much oil can cause problems but I could be wrong. Anyway I am skeptical this is the problem and will be cleaning everything tonight then looking it all over again. I also bought some filter skins for a little extra protection.

The keihin fits the airboot the same as the TMX so I doubt that is the problem but who knows?

I hope this doesn't kill the bottom end. I hate to think what the parts will cost and, as I was unaware when I bought the bike, there is no service manual made for it.

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Bottom end will be fine it's your intake valves that pay the price,also rings get stuck then excessive blow-by then no comp. Keep checking valve clearances. Spectro or twin air filter oil and soak it, grease both sides of back-fire screen gasket. Make a filter for your vent tubes these carbs suck a lot of very fine dirt. Just look at your vent tubes and see how much dust is inside. Goes right through the main jet erodes the Intake valves rings etc. If you have an 06 model use 2 of the plastic T's from emissions connections. Go to REI or camping supply get a water proof match container,drill 2 holes in bottom (drill 2 holes just enough where you have to squeeze the tube through the holes, then 1 hole in the cap) pull the tube thru the can so you can stick a piece of safety wire thru the hose 1/8 inch from the end and twist the safety wire then clip it , pull tube back into cannister safety wire will keep from pulling tubes out the ends. Cut the tubes approx 1 1/2 on one and 2 inches on the other. Right behind the carb cut your vent hoses leaving enough tube to put the T's connecting left side to right side vents then into the tubes from cannister cut some foam from old filter put inside screw cap on with longer vent hose 4-5 inches. Might cost $2.00 and 20 minutes but will save you many hundreds. Later George

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I own a WR so I don't have any valves to worry about. I'm worried but if I had this problem on a 4t I would be freaking out.

Will a keihin PWK suck as must dust as the 4t carbs do? I have never heard of people using the vent line filters on 2t so I wasn't sure if it is a problem or if the small amount of dust they could suck in would matter much without ti valves. That sounds like a good way to make the filters though, if I need them for my bike I will give it a try.

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Sounds like the No-Toil seperated and let dirt past the filter.

I know there are a lot of NT Lovers here, but I quit using the stuff a couple of yrs ago. I kept noticing my filter just didnt look as dirty as I thought it should after a dusty ride, especially compared to my buds that used Maxima FFT or Bel-Ray.

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The 2 year old oil is the culprit. When the oil is runny, not tacky, it simply will not stop dust from getting thru the filter. Next time, use new oil, it'll be tacky (which is what really gets the dust, not the foam).

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Remember, you need to shake the oil up in the bottle before applying.

I think if you don't, all you put on the filter is the carrier which evaporates. (I think it's alcohol).

I've used some old NT and never noticed it runny. I never really put enough in to make it runny and I've never had dust in the boot. I oil my filter lightly and never noticed a problem.

However, I can tell you that a K&N filter will pass some real fine dust into the boot through the filter and it really seems to do no harm. I've got 30k miles on my DR650 that runs a K&N always has a little dust in the boot and only now is it showing a little valve seal wear.

Just make sure your filter is not seperating at the seam.

NT can kill the glue on some filters!

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I hate the Notoil crap. I use PJ1 spray on stuff and have NEVER had an issue even in very extreme conditions. I have not seen issues with 2st carbs sucking dust. Clean all your stuff up and try another airfilter oil. :thumbsup: Your bottom end bearing will most likely be fine. If not it is not a huge deal to replace them.

K

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I had a K&N on my DR650 and it suck tons of dust which finally ruined the piston and sleeve coating :thumbsup: , now using TA not the slightest bit of sand even after a day playing in the dunes :ride:

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I had a K&N on my DR650 and it suck tons of dust which finally ruined the piston and sleeve coating :thumbsup: , now using TA not the slightest bit of sand even after a day playing in the dunes :ride:

Really!! The DR650 has a reputation for having a bore that lasts forever.

Now I'm worried.

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I hate the Notoil crap. I use PJ1 spray on stuff and have NEVER had an issue even in very extreme conditions. I have not seen issues with 2st carbs sucking dust. Clean all your stuff up and try another airfilter oil. :thumbsup: Your bottom end bearing will most likely be fine. If not it is not a huge deal to replace them.

K

Ride, what do you use to clean the PJ1 stuff out? Is there a detergent that works? About how many filters can you do with one can? I'm thinking of switching products.

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I did another dusty ride, but much less dusty then the last. I have no dust in the airboot now. I was using fresh no toil and a filter skin. I also pulled the airboot apart and resealed the metal to rubber. I really don't know what the original problem was. Maybe the factory sealing was not that good, maybe I had the filter on crooked, or perhaps the no toil does go bad. I did notice the factory black silicone sealant came off real easy with contact cleaner so I am wondering how well it holds up to fuel.

I also noticed the stock filter cage is kind of flimsy and seems just a little too small for the surface it is designed to cover. If anyone knows of an aluminum replacement I would be interested.

I didn't want to start a filter oil debate because I know plenty of people use NT with good results. It might not have a long shelf life though but I can not say for sure. I find it easy to clean and I use it along with engine ice to reduce the amount of toxic byproducts of the sport.

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On my '06 TE 510 the seal between the airboot and the airbox/metal flange from the factory weren't sealed that well either. Just a very thin layer of black silicone that wasn't spread very evenly.

I redid it all properly with fresh silicone. Seems like most new bikes need this done from the factory.

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This may be a little off topic but where air box perperation is concerned years ago I started applying a light coat of white lithium grease to the inner surfaces of the entire air box. This acts as a pre-filter for the air filter. You'll be amazed how much dust and misc. crap that sticks to the grease keeping it off of the air filter. This is cheap and really increases the air filter life for every day and dusty conditions.

Dale Wickline

2006 TE-250 ( plated in Maryland )

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I loved te idea of no-toil, but I quit after finding dust inside my air boot. Maybe I didn't shake it well enough, who cares. I threw the stuff away as I didn't want to take the chance of it happening again. Not worth the convienence.

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