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Cyclops w/ diode how-to

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I just wired mine up and figured I'd take a few pics along the way since it seems like a pretty common question.

The Acerbis direzioni -- er, i mean, directions -- specify that the smaller, spherical light is the low beam and the larger, ovular light is the high beam. I'm not sure what they're thinking here, since the spherical light is really wimpy putting out forward light. (It does put more light to the sides, though, which makes it the natural option for a high-beam.) If you ride around with just the spherical light turned on, you'll get killed and/or complain on this forum about how much the Cyclops sucks.

Hence the diode fix, in which the low-beam configuration turns on the larger, ovular light and the high-beam turns on both the spherical and the ovular light. (I'm ignoring the wee parking light that's built into the bottom of the ovular light. It's just a silly European requirement and puts out so little light that it's hardly worth bothering with.) All you need in addition to the Cyclops kit is a diode (aka rectifier) and a soldering iron. Radioshack sells 6 A, 50 V rectifier diodes in packs of four, and that's what I used.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062591

The Cyclops uses a 55 or 60 W bulb in the ovular light (don't remember right now), so you get a current through the diode of 60 W / 12 V = 5 A. If you put in some fancy PIAA replacement, you'll need a heftier diode.

The schematic of what I'm descibing is shown here:

http://www.motorworld.com/gcvt/vehicles/drz400/pics/dual_light_diagram.jpg

OK, enough blathering, on to the install. Solder the black (ground) wires from the Cyclops together and onto one of the supplied connectors. Solder the blue wire (+12V for the ovular light) to the side of the diode with the silver line around the top and to a connector. Solder the brown wire (+12V for the spherical light) to the other side of the diode and a connector. Note the diode orientation in the pic.

2006-08-16-CyclopsInstall1.jpg

These connectors fit into the DRZ's three-socket headlight connector nicely. Brown wire goes into the socket with two yellow wires (high beam), blue wire into the socket with one white wire (low beam), black wires into the socket with one black w/ white stripe wire (ground).

2006-08-16-CyclopsInstall2.jpg

OK, really you should put on some heat-shrink tubing before you plug them in so that when you're on the trail and these things are getting knocked about, they don't short. The tubing that came with my Cyclops was a bit big, so maybe you'll want to pick some up when you're at Radioshack.

2006-08-16-CyclopsInstall3.jpg

Now strap the thing on and have fun. :thumbsup:

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Great Job - This is a Cyclops change that can be for any bike correct ?

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This is a Cyclops change that can be for any bike correct ?

Yeah, I imagine. If you're headlight socket has three connectors and they're ground, +12V when the high beam's on, and +12V when the low beam's on, then it'll work. Just check it with a voltmeter.

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will this write up work with the stock drz headlight? so i can have both lights on when i put on the high beam.

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this is exactly what this post is about.

when u turn Hi beam u'll have both lights on.

Acrebis should have done it this way imo.

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well I'm back on stock headlight, so I can't verify, someone correct me if i'm wrong but i remember that there is a slight dim when you turn hi beam on, not sure if that's just for that draw second or stay that way.

anyway imo, having the big light by itself without both on as hi beam is hazardous.

just do the wiring per the instructions, ride it few minutes at night and if you don't like it do this cute mod.

i'm glad I did it when I had the Cyclopes

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as anyone had any problems with the stock headlight assembly running both hi and low beam at the same time? does anyone know anything about making the headlight wiring a thicker gauge so it doesnt dim?

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Nice write up Sabasilo! :D

I've had my stock headlight wired this way for three years and have had no problem. I soldered two jumper wires on to the diode and then put the jumpers into the plug along with the other wires. This method allows for vibration isolation.

If a person wants to run a higher wattage light, they could wire two diodes in parallel and they would then carry the extra current. I see no dimming,BTW, with my bike.

Keep up the good work guys! :worthy:

PS: A tip for you guys with D/S converted DRZs: Wires can get a little bound up around the steering stem. When taping up the wires that go around the steering stem and down the frame, form them up flat instead of round. This alows them to flex better.

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with a stock headlight assembly can you put the diode on the opposite side the side closest to the steering stem of the connector?

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Put two (or more) side by side. Make sure the silver band on each diode is at the same end. Twist the leads on one side together, and then twist the leads on the other side together. Connect a jumper to each pair of leads. The diodes can be attached at any point on the appropriate wires, between the switch and the bulb.

I built mine (only one diode) so the leads came out the same direction, like a fork, so they would go into the connector easily. Sorry, I'm not going to post pics.

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I bought some of these Diodes ( http://cgi.ebay.com/Diode-10-amp-600V-Axial-10A-Diodes-T10A60L-25_W0QQitemZ170050409582QQcmdZViewItem )

I wired it up to my 05 Sv650 just like in the first thread, But when i hit the high beam i get ALOT of dimming, The high beam oval light looks fine but the Lowbeam light is putting out about 1/2 the light, I then tried to wire 2 of them in paralell, and it didnt help at all.

Are those the Correct Diodes?

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+1

I'm having the same result... Now, I'm no electrician, but since both lights are 55W, wouldn't you need to install 110W worth of diodes? Just seems like that would make sense, I'm going to try that today... on the flip side of that... remember, I'm not an electrician... would I damage anything by soldering a 100W diod and a 55W diode together? I'm only asking, because these are the only two sizes I have been able to find at my local Radio Shack.

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I get a little dimming, but not enough that it seemed like a real problem. The two lights together are certainly still brighter than either alone.

I suspect that the dimming is a limitation of the alternator. On the DRZ400S, I think it puts out 200W peak. But peak output is at a few thousand rpm. At idle, the alternator output will be much lower. If it gets down near 100W, then sure the lights will be dimmer. Do they brighten when you rev the engine? That would answer your question.

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For some reason my wiring harness is weak, i Only get like 10 volts to the light when the lowbeams are lit, and it drops down to 8.5~ when i turn the highbeams on and it goes through the diode.

Since I dont have a gas tank on my bike I hooked my battery tender up to the battery to simulate the stator when the engine is running, And the Dimming was acceptable. When i get the bike running and its not bright enough ill probably end up getting one of these solid state relays ( http://www.comagination.com/relay-kit-headlight-modulator.htm )

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I think the dimming is 2 things 1 the limitations of the stock electrical system IE if you havent optimised using the free power mod then this is gonna hurt you more and 2 the fact that now your runnng 2x (maybe not 2x) the current thru the same guage wire. with the diode mode (diode flows current one way) you essentialy run 2 lites thru 1 wire thats where dimming will come from (assuming the e system is up to snuff)

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I don't understand why you guys are using 600v diodes. What do the specs say about the required voltage differential for the diode to conduct? I suspect that is your problem.

I used a diode from Radio Shack. I don't remember the exact specs. I think it is 12V and 5A. That would run 60W of lights (12V x 5A = 60W). The stock low beam is only 35W.

I run a kicker and the regulator/rectifier keeps the electrical system at 12VDC. At idle I can run the combined H/L beam, the horn, the blinkers, and the brake light ALL AT THE SAME TIME with no dimming. The kicker altenator only puts out 150W compared to the E putting out 200W.

Check the specs on those diodes.

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