Anyone ever hear about or exsperienced engine failier do to scott stainless steel....

[baja9928]

Thats a wise choice Baja.

2 strokes need good oil filters.

Since you're a Yamaha guy, what kind of coolant should I use in my TTR125? It's electric start, just so you know. Thanks Mr. Beezer.

[beezer]

I use a half and half mixture of water and Miller Lite. Put it in a bucket and throw it at the bike.

You can use pee-pee instead of Miller Lite if the liquor stores are closed, it's really the same thing.

[sonobob]

I use a half and half mixture of water and Miller Lite. Put it in a bucket and throw it at the bike.

You can use pee-pee instead of Miller Lite if the liquor stores are closed, it's really the same thing.

?

[sonobob]

Scotts doesn't make oil filters for my 2-stroke so I just use the OEM filters.

[Bryce418]

Well let's just say this do you have 100 + hours on a bottom end ? I do.. I must be doing something right...

actually I have well over 200 on mine ? and everything is aok like I said I'm just not willing to deal with the mess and uncertainty of a scotts filter. I definatly think they are better than not changing, but hiflos are only $4 so figure to break even I need to change my oil 15 times. and that doesn't even factor in the hassle

Bryce

[jjgixxer]

actually I have well over 200 on mine ? and everything is aok like I said I'm just not willing to deal with the mess and uncertainty of a scotts filter. I definatly think they are better than not changing, but hiflos are only $4 so figure to break even I need to change my oil 15 times. and that doesn't even factor in the hassle

Bryce

But I bet your just trail riding your bike also am I right ? Also are you a top 10 b level rider ?

[kelsow]

This from Husaberg.org,

The SS oil filter manufactured by Scotts performance products over here in the states filters to 35 microns absolute. That means that no particles larger than 35 microns can pass.

Paper filters filter down to about 13 microns, BUT, it's not absolute. Meaning that they will pass particles as large as 100 microns.

Also, on cold start up when the oil is it's most viscous, especially when there is low outside temps, paper filters will not flow enough oil, so the by-pass opens and unfiltered oil is used until the oil comes up to temp, becomes "thinner" and the by pass closes and oil resumes it's normal journey through the oil filter. It also needs to be mentioned that a SS filters flows more oil than a paper filter, even when it's pretty full. Ever tried to pour oil through a paper towel, or a coffee filter??

A very good mechanic I know has told me that he has seen motors, specifically the inside, that have used the SS filters and are covered in a thin layer of very fine metal particles.

HOWEVER, I HAVE BEEN USING A SS OIL FILTER FOR THE LAST 6 YEARS, AND WILL CONTINUE TO DO SO. I do think in the future that I might put a paper unit in every once and a while for one interval and then dissect it to see what comes out.

As far as cleaning, drying etc... I use a CRC product called Lectra-Solv. An electrical motor cleaning solvent in an aerosol can, it's about $3.50 USD. I usually use a whole can spraying from the inside out, going down each row facing down with the straw stuck inside the filter blowing out into a very clean drain pan so that I can see what comes out. Don't use all the cleaner at once, make a good pass all the way around. Then I use an opti visor in bright light like the sun, to make a visual inspection of the outside. I will usually find an area that I missed and hit it again. I then set my air pressure regulator to about 20psi, and use and air hose to blow it out, from the INSIDE out to dry it.

This practice has worked very well for me, and when I have taken my motor in to be torn down, to the mechanic I mentioned above, he has never mentioned to me that my motor was covered in this fine metal particulate. My personal opinion about the motors that are covered with fine metal are that the owners have not been doing proper maintenance in the first place.

Moral of the story, no matter what filter you use, change the oil frequently and your motor will be happy

[Bryce418]

But I bet your just trail riding your bike also am I right ? Also are you a top 10 b level rider ?

not entirely sure but maybe definatly at least mid pack b

Bryce

[beezer]

Just to kick a dead horse just one more time if I was going to use SS filters I would make a little tube with a bend in it for my air gun. You could blow all the crap out from the inside out with that.

The thing I don't like about the TTR 125 is the black seat. I burned my private parts when I sat on the bike coming home from the nude beach.

[tomcanfixit]

Heres a link that tells all about oil filters http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters Hope this helps.

[jzyz]

umm...let's see... 8000 miles on a filter and oil change(see the link), no thanks, change oil often, use good oil, get the BIG chunks out, run a long time. In my limited(ASE master truck/auto and ASE L1 &L2) real world experience and Higher education(BA business) I call BS. First of all, While big chunks (25 microns and larger) scratch bearing and metal surfaces, where did they enter the system?? Through the combustion chamber?(i.e. air filter) or through the moving parts the lubrication system is designed to protect?? If you are dusting the motor through the intake, the oil filter is irrelevant. If the particulates are generated from the motor itself, then isn't the lubricating oil suspect? Oil has to be thermally stable(viscosity) and have additives to further protect against wear. Anti-foaming agents and friction modifiers are predominant. The oil drain interval is more important than brand A's or brand B's "CLAIMED" filter protection. ?

Put Simply, change the oil often, keep it relatively clean(filtration) and ride on!!

P.S. all filters pass "big chunks" occasionally