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electric issues, is this a dealer case?

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Hi,

/me was trying to be smart and to replace the stock headlights with UFO Dual headlights

So I went ahead, changed them (of course without checking the manual 1st..)

and it looks sweet and even had no problem for couple hours.

right now the situation is that the headlights working (only 1 bulb) the kit comes with 2x 12V@35W but the turn signals and the ignition are dead. the only way I can start the bike is by pushing it. (makes 1 miss kick start ;]) also the dash with the odometer is working but no light there too.

I tried removing the light but that didn't help. I assume the fuse is OK because I still get light working from the headlight.

the manual says that the stock headlight uses 12V 60/66W and I double loaded it...

does anyone have any idea what could it be b4 I send the bike with my hard earned $$ to the dealer?

ANY advice will be great :thumbsup:

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Sounds to my like something went wrong during your install. Try unhooking the new light, double check the fuse & connect the old light. See if it works that way. Double check all your connections.

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Does the headlight work with the motor not running? Or only with the motor running after a bump start? Sounds like a fuse to me. You can bump start with a blown fuse because alternator power bypasses the fuse and feeds the system directly. If you have headlight with the motor not running but no power to other loads and the motor will still bump start, that does not make any sense.

Your 2, 35W headlights are no problem for the electrical system. The problem is due to the install. Stock headlight is 55/60 watts.

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yep the headlight works even when the motor is off.

I'll try putting it all back the way it was and check again. the last time I checked I've just disconnected the new headlights and checked the starter and signals and it didn't work. maybe connecting the stock light will fix it all.

as far as installing, the stock light had 4 wires all together; black,white,yellow,yellow.

the new light came with only plus and minus for each bulb. I attached a wire from each bulb to the + and the other 2 wires to the - leaving the two yellows disconnected.

that results in the switch for highbeam/lowbeam to work as an on/off switch all together.

the weired thing is that it all worked fine beside the switch thing. i did tested all the electric afterwards and it worked just fine. only after couple hours of riding i noticed the signals ain't working, then the starter quited too.

can you tell what are the two yellow wires r for?

I thought that one of them will be for the fuse, and the other for the high/low beam switch.

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One yellow is the hi beam from the dimmer switch, the other goes to the hi beam indicator on your instrument cluster. I'm trying to search for Noble's troubleshooting procedures for the electrical system, but the damned search feature is disabled.... Wait a minute... Found it. Here ya go!

Originally Posted by Noble

Here is the full procedure:

The electrical system is composed of 5 main components:

1. AC generator (the stator and magnets in the flywheel)

2. The rectifier

3. The regulator (the rectifier and regulator are combined in 1 box but function independently)

4. The battery

5. And the wires that connect everything.

First things first - check the charge voltage at the battery. Battery needs to be fully charged. Running 3000 rpm you are looking for 14 volts or higher. If voltage is low, start troubleshooting the system

Stator and wires. The stator is easy to check and the source of all power so check that to verify it is good. Check short to ground, coil resistance and running AC voltage of all 3 phases as described.

It is very important to check all wires and system ground wires. You have to be systematic and comprehensive. There are no secrets or short cuts

Check the 2 pin plug from the RR. From the battery, trace the small red wire and the small black wire to the first connector. Check those 2 connections. They must be perfect. Check and replace the fuse. Look closely at the fuse holder. The fuse must be a tight fit. Check the 3 pin connection between the stator coils and the RR. Any heat tint or melting of wires or connector plastic here or anywhere else is a problem.

Procedures:

1) Check all connections in and out of the regulator/rectifier (RR) 3 yellow wires and 1 each black (black has a white trace) and red. Trace the red to the battery and check all connections, the fuse and fuse holder and battery terminals. Now do the same with the black wire. You are looking for any signs of heating, loose or dirty or corroded connections. Fix if you find any. Test connections with your hands to feel for any heat (under load). Hot connections are bad.

2) Use a volt meter at the battery. This test needs to be done with a good and fully charged battery. Motor off key off - you should have 12.8 or more volts. Key on, lights on, motor off - around 12 volts is good. Motor running at idle - above 13 volts is good. High idle to around 3000 rpm - 14 to 14.5 volts is what you want to see. Suzuki says 13.5 is OK but that will not keep a battery charged. Many DRZ's will show the highest voltage at idle and the voltage drops as the rpm goes up. That is ok if it is above 14 volts. It is not really dropping but your test meter thinks so.

3) Low voltage - start by checking the stator coils. Unplug the 3 yellow wires from the RR. Motor off: check each yellow to ground. (The wires from the stator coils not the RR. We will check that later) No continuity is good, any continuity is bad. Now check wire to wire: Y1 to Y2, Y2 to Y3, and Y3 to Y1. You should see about .5 ohm resistance. Any open is bad, any continuity is good. Now start the motor and check the AC voltage output: Y1 to Y2, Y2 to Y3, Y3 to Y1. You are looking for about 60 volts AC at approx 3000 rpm. Exact output is not critical but should be about the same for all 3 readings and above 50 volts. Voltage varies with RPM. Make sure you use the AC scale.

4) RR testing - remove the RR from the bike. You can test the internal rectifier diodes. Put your digital meter on diode check and follow the meter test instructions. Check red wire to yellows wires then reverse the test leads. You will get no continuity one way and about .5 volt drop fwd continuity the other. Now repeat the test black wire to yellows. You should get the opposite results for no continuity and fwd continuity with a .5 volt drop. If you are not using a digital meter with diode test function, use a 12 volt battery and a low wattage bulb and test for continuity vs no continuity. There is no good way to test the regulator except by elimination of all other problems

More info, some redundant

Look at all the wires and connections between the RR and the battery. Both pos and neg. Look at the fuse and the fuse holder. Try a new fuse (fuses can go bad without going open) If you don't find anything, make a test connection so you can test voltage at the red and black wires right at the RR. You are going to have to improvise so you don't poke holes in the insulation which is always bad to do.

At this point, I always recommend to rewire the RR output direct to the battery. Use 14 gage marine grade wire and ring terminals. Cut the wires about 4" from the RR. (insulate the cut red wire to the wire harness) Extend the RR Red and Black wires direct to the battery terminals. Even if all the connections are good, this mod will give about .5 more volts to the battery.

You should be very comprehensive with checking all the wires and terminals and connectors. Suzuki uses small wires and small connectors and any sign of heating will cause problems. Ground wires are too often overlooked but are just as important as the pos feed wires. Something as simple as the small black wire from the battery to the harness can stop everything. That is the only place the loads (other than the starter) are grounded.

There is 1 more thing to check . That is current leakage. With every thing off, disconnect the battery neg. Connect a light between the battery and the cable. Should get nothing. If the light glows you have a big current leagage problem. If no glow, continue. Use the 10 amp scale and connect between the bat an the cable. If less than 1 amp go to the milliamp scale. You are looking for less than 1mA currrent leakage.

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This is some kind of wiring problem that is going to have to be found with a volt meter to see there he is loosing it. The only diagram I have for a DRZ S has only 1 fuse but perhaps Suzuki has updated things since then. I recently read a post that said a new Suzuki S disables the headlight when the starter is activated. Could be related. If anyone has a newer electrical diagram of that system, I would like to get a copy.

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I found a manual online, read the electric part and I think it might be the starter relay or the signal/side relay.

I'm not sure for which year is that manual, was printed on 2000 and the cover says: DR-Z400S SERVICE MANUAL.

for some reason I don't see a part similar to the manual image.

the only thing I have behind the headlight is this 'connector' which doesn't look like the one in the manual:

mancp1.jpg

and what I have:

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/6158/fardf1.jpg

http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/9310/nearpd9.jpg

and it does look like I'm missing something there.

can anyone please confirm?

now I'm worried maybe when I installed the thing I moved the other side of the connector,if any...

@ Noble, don't know if this is what you looking for but here is the electrical chap from the manual. (pdf)

http://tinyurl.com/k3e7v

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I don't have an S bike here to compare with but picture 1 seems to show the side-stand interlock/flasher relay. Pictures 2 and 3 show an open plug (no relay). The starter will not operate without the relay unless you jumper some of the terminals. What happened to the relay? The ignition is not dead, just the circuit that operates the starter. And the relay that operates the flashers. I think you lost the relay. Thanks for the electrical chapter but with my dial-up it will take 3 weeks to load so I have not looked at it. But if it is from a 2000 copy manual, it is the standard one that I have. Thanks anyway.

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OK found it. next time search under "turn signals" :thumbsup:

really hope that will solve it all.

will post the results...

thx all for the help so far.

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just in case someone will hit it someday...

it was the signal/side relay, I think when I put the whole wiring mess behind the new headlight I didn't noticed it and just stuffed it there not thinking that the piece might drop. well well, good way to learn. I hope.

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