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TT-R 225 and TT-R 230 mods thread.

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Call the TT store they can order a complete kickstart kit from yamaha for 81 bucks. The only problem I am having is the instructions came in japanies and I cant figure out how to put it together. Im 90% done but cant figure out the last couple of steps. Any ideas?

I know of a place that has the instructions translated :crazy:

http://www.xt225.com/pdf/kickstart.pdf

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Just installed Race Tech cartridge emulators on my 225 (part number FEGV 3501). It was the best $159.99 I ever spent. Used 15 wt oil (oil weight only adjusts rebound damping) and set the preload at 4 turns as recommended in the instructions (this adjusts compression damping), It's like riding a different bike. No more bouncing off roots and rocks.

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Okay Guys,

I am a 40 yr. old woman who has been on a few rides on a ttr 125 but is looking to ride a dual sport. Any feedback on the Yamaha tw200's?

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Okay Guys,

I am a 40 yr. old woman who has been on a few rides on a ttr 125 but is looking to ride a dual sport. Any feedback on the Yamaha tw200's?

If these are the fat tire bikes, I know a couple of different people that ranch and farm and like them for chasing and rounding up cattle in the pasture. However I've been told they have wobble when driving 55 mph on dirt / gravel roads. I know a lady that lost control due to the wobble on her TW on a gravel road and broke her arm.

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OK guys,I was going to order the exhaust mod stuff(billett end cap and screen ) plus the K&N air filter but the part numbers arent any good anymore,what are the correct numbers?Thanks

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Hi, I just bought a 2001 TTR 225 and was wondering if there was a dual sport kit, because it looks like there are turn signal mounts and a place for a rear light.

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Yes, you can look into buying the xt225 parts for the TTR225. they are the same bike in essence. both are made by Yamaha and the XT comes dual sport from the factory.

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Thanks Ovrrdrive for providing me with new links to the images for the airbox mod! I have update the walk through accordingly.

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Hey Alyx

I'm trying to sell my 05 TTR 230 and wanted to know a couple of things to put in the add. What do i need to make it street legal? When I bougth it I had a light installed. my dad says it needs a rear light. and do you know what the gas milage is for it?

Thx

Nate natester_07@ msn.com

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Well N8, my best guess would be you will need a brake/tail light, turn signals, mirrors, speedo, Tires all DOT rated. You should consult your local Motor vehicle office for the proper requirements.

This was really an off topic question for this thread btw :thumbsup:

Gas Milage? I've gone about 120 miles and had fuel left in the tank of my 225, I would imagine thats probably close to the limit though. I am not sure because I didnt measure how much was in the bike at start, was very close to full, nor did I measure how much was left, pretty low but not on reserve, the tank is 2.7 gallons.

Hope that helps.

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Hey, Alyx,

'Guess this might be off-topic a bit, but maybe not ('don't know how similar chassis are on TTR 225/230 vs. XT225--I remember noting at the dealer that motors are very similar if not identical). Who would you recommend to do a higher seat on XT225? do you know of any results of adding a higher seat (for taller riders)?

Thanks in advance,

David

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If you want more power and better throttle response out of your TTR230, you can spend < $30 and, with a little elbow grease, do it yourself. I might overkill my descriptions for some of you that have worked on bikes before, but many have never so the descriptions should suit them well.

Unless your at high altitudes, order the following jets:

#130 main: Yamaha part no 288143436500 (Mikuni part no KN102221130)

#38 pilot: Yamaha part no 43f-14342-19 (this one is actually sort of expensive, like $20 !!)

Remove your seat and gas tank: a 10mm socket will do it. It is MUCH easier to do this with them out of the way. If you've never removed your gastank before, the picture below shows the location of the bolt (there's another on the other side). Naturally, you'll have toshut off the fuel valve and pull the fuel line

gastankbolt.jpg

Make sure the areas around the carb are clean!!

You need to remove your throttle cables. Image below shows which nuts to loosen. After you loosen the nutes, pull cable wire ends from their slots on the bracket (red arrows).

throttlecables1.jpg

Next photo is the bowl drain screw on same side of carb. I always move one of the pieces of tubing over to the drain hole underneath the screw to keep things clean. Oh yeah, this screw is easy to strip, use correct size phillips head.

bowldrain2.jpg

Next photo is the carb ready to be loosened and removed. Red arrow points to tubing that you'll want to pull the bottom ends up and towards you so they don't hamper carb removal. See the red X? Look closely, then go over to the other side of your bike and look at the same spot. Why? When you're done changing the jets you'll want the clamp sealing this area well. The part of the carb that fits into the other clamp "pops" in place, but this side of the carb is trickier. Once you're satisfied that you'll know how this clamp needs to seat around this side of the carb, go ahead and loosen both clamps (blue squares).

carbstillin.jpg

Next photo shows recommended way to get the carb out - push on side next to airbox boot. It's a pain in the rear, maybe you have a better way.

PUSHCARB.jpg

YES, the carb is off! Time to change some jets

CARBOFF.jpg

Next pic is the carb bottom (a little more gas is going to drain out when you do this). The blue square shows the fuel screw. If this is the first time you've had the carb off, you're almost certainly seeing a brass plug. Time to get the drill out. Use a bit smaller than the diam of the brass plug. Holding your carb between your free hand and your thigh, apply slight pressure, just enough to start digging into the brass plug. Do not drill into your thigh or other parts of the carb. Get ready, because the drill will sort of "catch" when it breaks through, and when it does STOP!! (Don't worry too much, you'll be fine, just don't use so much force that you continue drilling and mess up the fuel screw.) Plug should fall right out! Screw in your new found fuel screw all the way in clockwise (DO NOT FORCE, JUST SEAT IT), then back out about 1 and a half turns for now. Remove the four screws holding the carb bowl in place. You can see which four - mine are fouled up. If you use the largest flat-bladed screwdriver you can fit into the screws you'll be more successful. Use visegrips to loosen if necessary, they're often tight!

carbbottom.jpg

Next pic shows bowl removed. See red arrows show the floats and the hinge on which they operate. Be gentle when you remove the bowl so you don't damage the floats. NOW . . . see the blue squares? That's what your here for, the jets!! The ones in this picture are the ones you're gonna put in.

bowlremoved.jpg

Next pic shows the stock jet and the white baffle that comes with it. You don't need the white baffle (in fact, you can't reinstall it)

oldjet_baffle.jpg

Next pic details the jets and shows another picture of the fuel screw. Simply unscrew the stock jet and remove along with baffle, and replace with your #130. The pilot screw is changed with a small flat-bladed screwdriver, one narrow enough to get down into the port in which it resides. Replace with the #38. Don't use too much force or you can strip the brass jets. Snug them.

JETSHOT2.jpg

Reinstall the carb. At first you'll wonder how you got the thing out, but keep at it and you'll get there. This is where understanding how the clamp sealing needs to be before you remove the carb comes in handy. Tip: bend the tip of the boot coming from the airbox over and sort of wedge it on the rear shock.

Next pic shows the carb in place but tilted. Removing the carb was needed to drill out the brass plug, so you don't have to completely remove the carb to change the jets should you need to again. Just follow along as you did and after the clamps are loosened tilt the carb enough so that the bowl can be carefully removed and the jets changed! Note: see the red "a" on the pic? Since you've banged around on the boot that connects your airbox to the carb, you may have cracked the chinsy sealant used at the factory in this location. Get some waterproof silicone sealant and redo all the way around where the boot connects to the airbox. You don't want air coming in unfiltered.

CARBTILT.jpg

OK, the hard parts are done. Tighten the clamps (check sealing, remember). Reconnect throttle cables. Make sure bowl drain screw is closed. Reorient the tubing. Get everything on the carb back where it was before. Reinstall gas tank and reattach fuel line.

Wait! Don't put on the seat yet. See next picture? I've not only removed the snorkel, I've cut some extra out of the top to get good air flow. It's up to you, but what you see works well. Make sure your airfilter is clean before you reinstall the seat, you want good airflow to make final adjustments to the carb.

AIRBOX1.jpg

Next pic is underside of silencer. See the hole near the end? Used to be a screw in here that held the baffle in place. Remove the screw and remove the baffle

bafflescrew.jpg

Next two pics is to make you think about how to manage to adjust the fuel screw - there's not much room. First pic shows what I use to make the adjustment, a stubby screwdriver drill bit that's labelled to keep track of turns. Now look at second pic. You need to have the bike warmed up before final adjustments, so with your adjusting hand protected by a thin glove and adjusting tool in hand, work your away between "b" and "c" to get the tool up into "a" to make the tweak. There's probably a better way: if you come up with one, let me know and I'll modify the instructions.

adjusttool.jpg

adjuststrategy.jpg

When you start it back up it will be a little louder (!!) Let it warm up for several minutes and ride around for several minutes (you should notice some changes with the power!). Now, bump the idle speed up just a tad. With the adjusting tool, start turning the fuel screw IN (clockwise if you were looking at the fuel screw from the BOTTOM of the carb) until the rpms start to fall off. Keep track of where you are. Now turn the fuel screw OUT (counter-clockwise from the bottom of the carb). The rpms will pick back up, level out, but then start faltering again. Don't turn the fuel screw out more than 2 and a half turns (you shouldn't have to). Finally, turn the fuel screw back IN until the rpms just level out then another 1/8-1/4 turn.

You should notice some more power!! Should sound pretty sweet, too.

If you want to maximize the power, replace the 13 tooth sprocket with a 14 tooth sprocket (I ordered mine from Moose Racing, part number 1212-0062). You'll need to grind off a little on the inside of the curve of your case saver to prevent the chain from rubbing it. You will gain more useability of 1st/2nd gear as well as increase your speed without sacrificing acceleration because your bike is geared LOW!!

Hope this helps

APRIL 15 2009 edit: Gearing info courtesy of beerad

The front sprocket is the same as the Yamaha Blaster Quad (YFS200) 1988-2006. The Renthal part number is 366-520-13GP and a 14 tooth is offered.

The rear sprocket for this bike is the same as the current YZ/WR125-450 offroad bikes WITH ONE EXCEPTION' date=' the mounting holes are tapered, whereas the mounting holes on the TTR230 are flat. In order to mount the YZ/WR sprocket onto the TTR230, you will need to purchase the tapered style sprocket bolts for the YZ/WR's. The Renthal part number for this rear sprocket is 150U-520-XX with the last two digits being the tooth size. Sizes 46T-53T are offered.

Hope this helps out.[/quote']

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Great thread! But you dont have to take off the carb to change jets all you have to do is loosen clamps and spin the carb(I know I hate taking it out)

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Great thread! But you dont have to take off the carb to change jets all you have to do is loosen clamps and spin the carb(I know I hate taking it out)

Yeah, there's on spot on the thread where I show the carb tilted and I explain exactly what you said. You do, however, need to take it out if your going to drill out the brass plug that covers the fuel screw on a stock Teikei

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I've been waiting for pic's like this. I should have my pilot jet delivered today. I'm using the same 130 main and 38 pilot, but my project is for the Big Gun EVO X. The one thing from following Yamajeb's threads is the elevation. Not mentioned before. You think these are still going to work at 6000 feet?

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I've been waiting for pic's like this. I should have my pilot jet delivered today. I'm using the same 130 main and 38 pilot, but my project is for the Big Gun EVO X. The one thing from following Yamajeb's threads is the elevation. Not mentioned before. You think these are still going to work at 6000 feet?

It's conceivable that you might be a little rich (I sort of doubt it but every bike/situation is different not to mention I'm no expert). If this is the case, the effect of adjusting the fuel screw will tell you what you need to do next to get it right. My guess is that if it does end up being rich, you'll have to set the fuel screw in all the way or close to all the way, indicating that you'll need to reinstall the original pilot. If so, the additional jetting will be easier because it can be done without removing the carb. :thumbsup:

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Nice write up :thumbsup: I was wondering when someone with a 230 would break down and do it :ride:

Maybe It will get stickied :applause:

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