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FCR delivery impatience

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As the subject says... I'm awaiting an FCR but i have no patience and an RS-3 that needs the new jets.

Today, I finally got the balls to man handle the carb off my bike. Wow what a fun hour that was :ride: Anyway.... Thought i would give some tips to make it easy for yall trying to get a kit in your bike.

Of course, follow the directions in the manual and the kit. They don't tell you, but you should unbolt that plastic oil catch right above the exhaust pipe. Unhook that and disconnect the tubing so you can move it out of the way. Once that's sort of out of the way.... get really mad @ something and start twisting and turning and pushing and cussing and stuff... it'll come out. A small pry bar helped along w/ a flat head screw driver to get the airboot off the back of the carb.

OK.... now that the carb was off.... those screws were so :thumbsup: tight i striped all 4 of them and had to go to the hardware store. I found 4 replacement hex screws to reinstall. $3 a piece!! But they're freaking worth it.

To get the carb BACK in to the bike... Put the front on first. Scrunch the back boot a hell of a lot.... it's really flexible so don't sweat it. Then, when your carb is seated on the front.... start prying w/ a screwdriver until it seats.

As far as power goes.... Nice. I'd say it launches better and hits highway speeds really well. I can't say much more cuz it's way dark right now and people don't know how to drive in the daytime so i figured i can wait till tomorrow.

All in all.... i do reccommend it. It's cheap and so so on the simplicity. :applause:

adios!

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Heh, I found that I could crush the airboot back past the frame member with my hand and lodge it behind the spring the second time i had the carb out. Then I got dirt in the airboot (from the spring), so it came off for cleaning... :\

It's a crap job, there's an ideal angle/placement where the carb goes in w/o scraping on the frame.

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The carb was easier to get off than I had expected, but I did strip out one of the float bowl screws. FYI ~ a great workaround to a stripped phillips head screw is to take a small hacksaw and cut a slice in the top of the screw which then enables you to bust it loose with a flathead screwdriver. :thumbsup:

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The carb was easier to get off than I had expected, but I did strip out one of the float bowl screws. FYI ~ a great workaround to a stripped phillips head screw is to take a small hacksaw and cut a slice in the top of the screw which then enables you to bust it loose with a flathead screwdriver. :thumbsup:

Not a bad thought to use the hack saw and make a slot in the screw head. Others here have suggested using small vise grips to wrench those suckers loose.

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As mentioned in other threads, spend the $5.00 and start with a JIS screwdriver. You might still have problems or perhaps an impaled hand but at least you had the correct screwdriver.

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OK.... now that the carb was off.... those screws were so :thumbsup: tight i striped all 4 of them and had to go to the hardware store. I found 4 replacement hex screws to reinstall. $3 a piece!! But they're freaking worth it.

Anyone happen to know the sizes of the screws? I'm planning to take mine off for the first time tomorrow night. Will try using an impact driver... but just in case I'd like to have the screws handy.

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Yes, an impact driver; now someone's using their head. If you work on your own cycle you should own one.

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It all seems like you people should have the 06 or 07 E model which comes with a Flat slide CR carb that has allen (socket ) head screws holding the bowl in place :thumbsup:

BTW, I would not use an impact driver on a cast aluminium carb except as a very last resort - the issue is a fracture in the body which will be unrepairable.

Just buy a new driver or cut slots with a butter knife :ride:

(notice how these smiley things are yellow??)

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Or just clamp a small pair of vice-grips on the sides of each of those 4 bolts and pop them loose. It is simple, easy and effective.

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You can use an impact driver on your carb screws without fear of damage by using it WITHOUT a hammer. Seat the phillips head firmly, push down to preload the driver as you would normally, and simply turn it with your hand. It will deliver much more torque this way than you could using a hand-held screwdriver.

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