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1999 KLX 300 questions

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I am new here so first let me apologize for asking these questions that have been asked a thousand times already.I am looking at a 1999 KLX 300 that I found for sale.I did a little research and found some issues with these bikes like the idler gear problem and the shifter and the ACR problem.To be honest from what I have read these problems have all but scared me off buying this bike.I emailed the seller and none of the mods have been done.It seems the idler is the worst of the problems .Is there a kit the supplies you with everything you need to fix the problem?

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if you start the bike the way it is made to be started you will never have a problem with the gear, I was wondering about the same thing and went searching for a new better gear the only place you could get one was from a company that isnt around anymore they were called stoker, well stoker was bought out by four stroke works fsw for short and they still make most of the stoker stuff, if you buy the bike and if i were you i would buy it there great bikes, get the fsw head pipe for the bike it makes it a whole diff bike, best 150.00 bucks i ever spent, and do all the free mods ,well back to the idler gear the owner of fsw told me that they dont carry that part anymore and the reason people were breaking them was because they were not starting the bike right, and the factory part is fine and not to worry about it as long as i kick start the bike the way it is ment to be started. if your valves are set right and your idle fuel mix knob is turned out right about 2.5 turns that bike will light up first sometimes 2nd kick everytime

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if you start the bike the way it is made to be started you will never have a problem with the gear, I was wondering about the same thing and went searching for a new better gear the only place you could get one was from a company that isnt around anymore they were called stoker, well stoker was bought out by four stroke works fsw for short and they still make most of the stoker stuff, if you buy the bike and if i were you i would buy it there great bikes, get the fsw head pipe for the bike it makes it a whole diff bike, best 150.00 bucks i ever spent, and do all the free mods ,well back to the idler gear the owner of fsw told me that they dont carry that part anymore and the reason people were breaking them was because they were not starting the bike right, and the factory part is fine and not to worry about it as long as i kick start the bike the way it is ment to be started. if your valves are set right and your idle fuel mix knob is turned out right about 2.5 turns that bike will light up first sometimes 2nd kick everytime

IMO, this information about the idler is only half right. (As a side note, the Idler and ACR are different sides of the same problem.) If your ACR has not been modded on the '99 model, there will still be a lot of compression that you are fighting against. That's not good as it puts a lot of stress on the idler. Get the ACR mod done. It's easy, and with a bike that old, you should be checking the valves anyway. So, while you're there, pull the ex cam and have Brewster do the ACR mod for you. Simple, easy and cheap. Then you're half way there. In addition, I would check for cracks in the idler or broken teeth, and I would check the bushing on the idler gear itself. If there are any cracks or teeth broken off, replace the gear. As for the bushing, make sure there is not too much play in it. If it's OK you're good to go. If not, do a search for "idler bushing" and you'll find out what you need to do. THEN, learn how to start the bike properly and you'll most likely be OK. This might sound like a lot, but it's really all pretty simple. Cheers, Bill

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im in the same boat, mines a '01. i of course had noclue of any of these little hang ups, but even if i did know about them beforehand i still wouldve bought the bike(plus, the price was right) even with the issues i love the bike! im in the works of hopefully gettin the mods done.

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I've got an 01 myself. I love mine. I am graduating MMI tomorrow, and knowing the things that I know now, the hang ups you guys are talking about, really are just normal maintenance issues. Another things that people talk about with this model bike is the lack of a hot start button, and how hard the bike can be to start after a stall. Really, I don't feel the ACR mod is all that necessary. Replace your idler gear and bushing once every other year for insurance, and kick start the bike as if it were a big bore thumper. SLOWLY kick through till you find TDCC, and go just a little bit past it. Then when you are kicking on the bike ti fire it off, you are not stressing all of the starting components, ie. idler gear, through the hardest part of the stroke. The ACR mod is a kind of band aid. It works, but the guys at Kawi a pretty smart, and they designed the bike really well.

As for the lack of a hot start button, try this little trick next time you stall. Wick the throttle completely open. Kick through 5 times SLOWLY. The venturi in the carb is too large for the slow moving air passing through to create enough of a pressure difference and draw fuel into the cylinder. Essentially, you are clearing the cylinder of all the old, hopt, and stail fuel air that was left in there from the stall, and slowly pulling in some cooler, fresh air. It's the same thing that a hot start does.

I can't say enough about how the KLX 300 is a great bike, when it is used for and how it was designed. There is plenty of aftermarket stuff for em, you just have to look. Swoop it up and have fun. Adjust your valves every 15 hours, and once you run out of oem shims, replace your valves.

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The ACR mod is a kind of band aid. It works, but the guys at Kawi a pretty smart, and they designed the bike really well.

Actually, the "smart" guys at Kawi changed the ACR timing late in the 2002 run of the KLX's to make it easier to kick over. The real benefit of the ACR mod is that it takes much less effort to kick the engine over. It is not meant to be a band aid for an out of adjustment carb or tight valves.

Ride on

Brewster

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What you say about proper starting technique will prolong the life of the idler gear but there's more to it than that.

The Kaw engineers may be pretty smart but it took until '01 or so before THEY fixed the ACR timing and in '02 increased the diameter of the output shaft where the idler gear rides. I don't know if they increased the width of the bushing also. Maybe you have the new and improved ACR timing. They didn't change the P/N when they did it.

If you buy a replacement shaft for older than '02 you will find it doesn't have the circlip groove on the inboard side of the idler gear since this is where the shaft is prone to break when the idler gear snags on the back of the clutch.

That's the band aid. I wonder if they beefed up the case where is cracks around the bearing too. :thumbsup:

As for holding open the throttle on a flooded engine, it doesn't really make much difference on the stock carb because you're holding open the butterfly downstream of the slide not the slide itself. Whether the slide is popping up every time you kick it or not I don't know but I haven't found that throttle position makes any difference on starting a stalled KLX with the CV carb and I've had a lot of experience starting a dropped bike.

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I've got an 01 myself. I love mine. I am graduating MMI tomorrow, and knowing the things that I know now, the hang ups you guys are talking about, really are just normal maintenance issues. Another things that people talk about with this model bike is the lack of a hot start button, and how hard the bike can be to start after a stall. Really, I don't feel the ACR mod is all that necessary. Replace your idler gear and bushing once every other year for insurance, and kick start the bike as if it were a big bore thumper. SLOWLY kick through till you find TDCC, and go just a little bit past it. Then when you are kicking on the bike ti fire it off, you are not stressing all of the starting components, ie. idler gear, through the hardest part of the stroke. The ACR mod is a kind of band aid. It works, but the guys at Kawi a pretty smart, and they designed the bike really well.

As for the lack of a hot start button, try this little trick next time you stall. Wick the throttle completely open. Kick through 5 times SLOWLY. The venturi in the carb is too large for the slow moving air passing through to create enough of a pressure difference and draw fuel into the cylinder. Essentially, you are clearing the cylinder of all the old, hopt, and stail fuel air that was left in there from the stall, and slowly pulling in some cooler, fresh air. It's the same thing that a hot start does.

I can't say enough about how the KLX 300 is a great bike, when it is used for and how it was designed. There is plenty of aftermarket stuff for em, you just have to look. Swoop it up and have fun. Adjust your valves every 15 hours, and once you run out of oem shims, replace your valves.

Ponchito - welcome! You're young (sounds like anyway). Stick around, you might learn something here. One thing you ought to know though, I don't trust taking my bike to the mechanic to have it worked on unless I know him well - and now that would include you. Often I have found they know less than me. (And that's embarassing.)

Obviously you've not seen the idler gear pics on planetklx or you might not have spoken so quickly. Yes the Kawi engineers are pretty smart, but the company is pretty lazy. After 7 or 8 years of broken idlers, they decided to change the ACR orientation on the cam the way they should have done it in '94. Bruces ACR mod puts the ACR in the correct position as well - the position Kawi has them in on the new bikes. You can't have your cake and eat it too. Either it's right now, or it was right before. Which is it? I agree with you that some of these things are "maintainence" issues, but Kawi has a historically bad rep about fixing things that every owner knows is wrong. Bruce is one smart dude with a lifetime of practical hands-on experience. No book experience or jamming thru a 1 year course can give you that kind of knowledge or intuition that being around bikes a lifetime can.

In addition to learning how to talk to people who know about their bikes that have owned them for awhile (probably since before you started high school), you also have a little to learn about hot flooded KLX's and their carbs. I'm laughing my ass off. Sorry but the walk in here I'm a brand new mechanic and know it all thing doesn't really cut it around here with so many experienced guys who have owned these bikes for years. :thumbsup: I've had a KLX with a stock carb so flooded it's taken a half hour to get it lit up cause the owner didn't have a hot start. And believe me, after owning 2 of them, I know how to start them. Hot starts are not necessary, but on occation, they are worth their weight in gold. You can't get a decent volume of air into the cylinder with a CVK and no hotstart in a particularily bad flooded situation.

I don't mean to be insulting or disrespectful, but replacing an idler gear every 2 years is not a maintainence issue. It's a design flaw. If it's not, why did they change the idler shaft? Having a shift star that won't hold the bike in gear is not a maintainence issue - it's a design flaw. Is having the suspension set up completely un-balanced a maintaince issue? I don't think so.

Congrats on graduating - I'm sure everyone here is proud of the effort that took. Just remember - you're not done learning yet. Good luck with your career. bp

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Well put Bill,

I'm with you on this one. This forum and others like it are a wealth of knowledge for us all to share and the mods, problems and fixes are all tried and tested many times over by people who use these bikes every day. Time in the field is far better than thoeries/text books any day.

cheers hatto

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hey the new mecanic was just givin his opinion on some issues the bike has, if you own one of these bikes for more than 2 weeks you will know almost everything you need to know about them and about most of there querks,the only thing i can say wrong about the new mecanics post is that he said he was a mecanic, in here thats like sayin your a republican at an all gore rally, letts all just play nice and not act like we know it all, and try to help each other

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Maintinance? Whats that? I bought a shim kit of Bill about a year ago and have yet to use it. Maybe one of these days I'll check the valves, but since the first set went 3 yr's without adjustment I think I'm still on the safe side.

Cure for valves= leaded gas.

Cure for idler gear= park on hill and bumpstart cause I'm lazy.

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...just my $.02, but I bought some JP racing fuel that's oxygenated - mix it about 10-15% by volume with premium and the bike runs and starts like a dream. Much more torque and low-end, much more predictable, etc. The gas was $65 or something for 5 gal, but it lasted me a long time since I was mixing it so low. The gas at the pump is junk - premium or otherwise. Hopefully this will extend the life of the engine as well - can't hurt anything.

BTW - haven't had to touch the valves in almost 2 yrs.....knock on wood.

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