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gas leaking from carb drain tube

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I cleaned out the carb and put it back together (first time ever) and it started and ran, but the throttle was not working so I took off the carb cap and aligned the throttle sleeve properly and put everything back together and it started once and stalled and now won't start but gas is leaking from the drain tube on the bottom of the bowl. I have tightened the drain screw... ??

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okay, is the float stuck open because I messed something up or does this happen frequently when starting up with a dry carb after a cleaning? assuming the screwdriver to the side of the carb did nothing (it did nothing) I'm guessing the next step involves removing the float bowl, what should I be looking for and/or testing before I screw it back together? thanks guys!

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You may have a bad needle valve. Take off the float bowl, then take out the float. there will be a square shaped needle with a black pointy tip which will be attached to the float assembly or in the tube next to the hinge. Also, make sure you didnt bend the tab where the needle sits on the float assembly. if the float is set too high, it wont shut off fuel delivery to the bowl, causing it to overflow and run out the overflow tube.

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okay, I took the carb back off and openned it up and the needle jet holder was not screwed in!!!!

well, I screwed it back in, checked the float (which seemed fine) and put it all back together and it started right up. it ran for about a minute before it died. which is exactly what happened last time *grrrr*

I'm going to take it all apart again and see what's going on in there. but first, I check the diagram of the carb in the Cylmer manual and I see that the jet holder (the white plastic thingy) is meant to be screwed onto the needle jet holder. is that correct? the way I remember it, the jet holder (the plastic thing) would not be held in place by the main jet screw.

I know this is a lot of terminology (I'm getting all these names from the Clymer manual) but I guess the short version is: how is the white plastic thingy held in place in the carb?

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let me axe one more question...

how does the float work and why is mine still sticking? I've taken the thing apart 3 times today and every time it starts, blows some blue smoke out the back and then dies and won't start again.

I believe you all that the problem is the float, tapping on the outside of the carb isn't getting it done, it looks clean and moves freely.

I am new to all this stuff, so if there is some "carbs for dummies" website or link, I would be most grateful.

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The float floats on the fuel in the carb. When it reaches the proper level it presses the float valve or needle into the seat shutting off the fuel. Make sure the black rubber tip of the float valve or needle is in good shape and that there is no crap on the seat in the carb. Turn the carb over and blow into the fuel inlet. If you can't, the float valve is working and may just need adjustment. My book says the bottom of the float should be 12.5mm or .49" from the bottom of the carb body (with the bowl removed) to the bottom of the float. Adjust by bending the tab that actuates the float vavle. You can test it by hooking up the fuel line without the carb installed.

You're not confusing the float valve with the needle in the slide are you? Your mention of a needle jet has me wondering.

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Make sure the black rubber tip of the float valve or needle is in good shape and that there is no crap on the seat in the carb. Turn the carb over and blow into the fuel inlet. If you can't, the float valve is working and may just need adjustment.

okay, thanks a million! here's some more information... the bike worked fine before I got my grimy mitts on it :thumbsup: there was just a good deal of hesitation in the middle throttle range. as soon as I had the carb open the reason for the hesitation was clear, there was plenty of grime all over the main jet. my "workshop" is not exactly a cleanroom environment, so I am guessing crap on the seat in the carb is a likely culprit.

I got me one of those bucket w/basket sytle carb cleaning cans. I'm going to dunk the whole shabang down in there (minus the floats and the gaskets) and try it again. but if I read you right, you suspect that there is something preventing the torpedo shaped thingy connected to the floats from sealing up the fuel inlet completely so that the fuel keeps coming in which causes the engine to stall? is that correct?

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ok listen to me dude ur problem is either A: In your idle or b in your jets. IOf the bike was running properly before and you havent added anything i.e. an exaust or something then its just the jets are clogged. Take the bolw off and the float out. Take off all the caps on the jets. SPRAY CARB CLEANER DOWN ALL OF THEM AND OVER EVERYTHING. lET IT SIT FOR ABOUT 30 SECONDS. Then take a compressor with the little air sprayer thing and the little needle tip ball inflator thingamajigger lol. Stick it in the jets and spray 125 psi air in the suckers. Spray the air over everytyhing as well insuring that you get everything good and dry n all. Rebuiold ur carb slap her on and u should be good to go. If this does not work make sure ur filter is clean as well. GL.

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but if I read you right, you suspect that there is something preventing the torpedo shaped thingy connected to the floats from sealing up the fuel inlet completely so that the fuel keeps coming in which causes the engine to stall? is that correct?

Causes the overflowing which will cause flooding and stalling. That's got to be fixed before any adjusments are made. Don't stick the float valve in the carb cleaner either. Maybe during reassembly you bent the float. Check it like I said.

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just for the record.... just like my boy above me said make sure you dont stick any rubber Sh*t in the carb cleaner. In like 2 years itll cause the rubber to wear away. Im almost positvie if u get ur float fixed and it aint leakin no more then ur jets are just clogged and blow all that out with 125 psi compressor air. Hope this helps bro.

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