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Hi,

i would like to collect the most infos about this auto clutch.

Who is using it?

how do you feel with it?

any compliants?

ciao

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sorry i forgot to mention,

i use my rmz only for wood and enduro climbings.

thks

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I have one on my rmz 450. I can't think of anything bad to say about it....except you can't bump start your bike. If you lose or snap your kickstarter :applause: you're walking....I even have the external adjuster. It does'nt matter. It just freewheels. I am going to get a kickstarter to put in my pack or zip tie to my bike, just in case. I snapped one on my kx 500 once.... Other than that, I think it's awesome :thumbsup: You can charge into a corner and lock up the rear wheel without stalling. It makes rocky, nasty hills easy. I even changed my gearing to 15/46. I just got back from riding tight, rocky, forest trails and first gear is now in the perfect rpm range. Just below the powerband. Before, 1st was too high, 2nd was too low. You can also start your bike in gear...Don't forget, though, or you will take off when you blip the throttle. :ride: My next bike will have one, too..........

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many thanks ambvlnt1

but last 2 questions, what about in downhill, wheel is free?

and there is something that overide the auto-clutch in the handlebar, just in case i want to exclude the authomatism?

i supposed that perch did this, so there is no chance to bypass the auto clutch?

ciao

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On a downhill, the wheel spins freely if the rpm's drop to idle. If you bring the rpm's up, you get your engine braking back. If you're coasting fast down the hill and blip the throttle, but you are in 1st gear :thumbsup: , it will be just like going into 1st gear from neutral. If you get going too fast, just gear up. The external adjuster lets you tune it without removing the clutch cover. It also overrides the auto-clutch.

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Another option for a broken kickstarter, carry an extra drive plate or you can bend one of the drive plates in the clutch in a pinch. The bent drive plate (or extra 1) will drag the clutch enough for bumpstarting but you will loose the auto portion of your clutch.

The clutch is adjustable, if you adjust the engagement speed to very near the idle speed, it will not free-wheel after locking the rear tire as long as your not in a gear that would have the engine speed at or below idle anyway.

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well does the clutch still work ,,if you go to stop , do you still pull the clutch in or is it automatic

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ya but lets say you need to lift the front end ,, can you still hit the clutch and gas it ?.

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Ever since I put the Rekluse on my RMZ450, I haven't had any arm pump. It was pretty severe. Now I can roll the bike off the truck and ride all day, non-stop. Coincidence......? Maybe. But nothing else has been changed since.

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ya but lets say you need to lift the front end ,, can you still hit the clutch and gas it ?.

If you have the perch adjuster, yes you can. :cheers:

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Yeah it is still mounted. When you pull the lever though, it feels like nothing but if you rev the motor with the clutch pulled in, it will feel like the clutch "springs" (springs are actually removed) are getting stronger and its harder to pull. This gives a weird inconsistant pull but the engagement point is still there so you can rev and release to get a clutch pop effect.

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+1

I had one on my DRZ as well and it worked flawless.

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