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CRF 450 Brakes SUCK!!!! Whats the deal???

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I have a 2006 CRF 450 and my front brake has faded. I have only had the bike 5 months and the damn lever can be pulled all the way to the grip! And yes I"ve adjusted the little screw all the way out, and yes it has fluid!!! I have to pull it at least half way in before it starts stopping. Yes it stops, it works fine its just faded beyond belief. My 2004 YZ 250 has never faded at all, and still has stock pads and fluid! The worst thing is that rear master cylinder fades on corners and by the 3rd or 4th corner it fades all the way until the back brake doesnt even work!!! I am going to buy a used one on ebay. It would be really nice to know more people with the same problems and if changing the brake fluid is the answer. Fluid only, fluid and new pads, fluid new pads and ????. Whats goin on with the rest of you???

:thumbsup:

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ok, i dont understand how and why a stainless line would be any different then the current stock line. It holds the pressure fine and as long as its hold up the pressurea and not leaking it should be working fine!

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:thumbsup: pardon my stupidity but bleeding the front brake??? what exactly does that mean??? Get the air out?? or get all the old oil out completely and add new oil when im done. Or just bleed it and keep adding new oil until it seems like the new oil replaced the old?

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:ride: pardon my stupidity but bleeding the front brake??? what exactly does that mean??? Get the air out?? or get all the old oil out completely and add new oil when im done. Or just bleed it and keep adding new oil until it seems like the new oil replaced the old?

yep, to bleed the brakes means getting all the air out of it. There is a bleed valve on the master cylinder, see your manual. You willl need to pop the top off the reservoir to add more fluid as you go through the bleeding process. Once you've bleed it properly, the bike should stop on a nickle...get stainless line and it will stop on a dime :thumbsup:

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Hey, you mentioned that you turned the screw all the way out, you need to turn the screw in to get more bite.

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You have air in your brake line. You need to find a manual or look online to figure out how to bleed your brakes. I am 95% sure that is your problem, don't rebuild anything or adjust anymore screws until you have blead your brakes.

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The worst thing is that rear master cylinder fades on corners and by the 3rd or 4th corner it fades all the way until the back brake doesnt even work!!! :thumbsup:

I had a similar problem with the rear brake on my CR250 a few years back. On long, steep downhills the rear would completely go away within a half-mile or less. The culprit ended up being a minute amount of moisture in the fluid. Once the brake heated up enough, this water would boil; creating steam and thusly eliminate all hydraulic pressure. Still have no idea how it got in there in the first place, maybe just a little condensation on the resovoir cap or something like that during a prior servicing?? With the unGodly high levels of humidity here in GA, it wouldn't surprise me.

A full fluid replacement solved the problem completely.

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Or your pads and rotors might just be dirty. Spray brake cleaner all over your brake assemblies and wipe them clean. I bet it will help.

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Switch to DOT 5.1 fluid, it will help with brake fading!

Brian is correct here. dot5 will have a higher boiling point. sounds like you need to bleed the brake system. these bikes have excellent brakes! sorry your having problems but once you get them fixed you will be impressed :thumbsup:

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OMG what a POS. :thumbsup: I say sell it.

No, really like everyone else said, just bleed your brakes.

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Brian is correct here. dot5 will have a higher boiling point. sounds like you need to bleed the brake system. these bikes have excellent brakes! sorry your having problems but once you get them fixed you will be impressed :thumbsup:

You will indeed be impressed....once you regain consciousness after throwing yourself over the bars! :ride::applause::applause:

(Just joking there, dude...wouldn't seriously wish it upon anyone...but your brakes will be 1000 times better, so be alert to that when you climb back on)

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My rear brake goes out after about the first 4 to 5 corners on the track getting weaker up to corner 5 and by 6 and on its done! Its a worthless piece of crap that damn honda brake! I am pissed!!!

The front brake screw is adjusted all the way (in or out pending on which way you look at it) to get the quickest response. I am going to bleed the pathetic front brake, right now. I ride the YZ 250 and its brakes are so awesome, wish my honda could be the same!

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My rear brake goes out after about the first 4 to 5 corners on the track getting weaker up to corner 5 and by 6 and on its done! Its a worthless piece of crap that damn honda brake! I am pissed!!!

The front brake screw is adjusted all the way (in or out pending on which way you look at it) to get the quickest response. I am going to bleed the pathetic front brake, right now. I ride the YZ 250 and its brakes are so awesome, wish my honda could be the same!

Not Honda's fault you dont know how to bleed brakes. Maybe the Pathetic owner should try to get the air out before talkin smack. :thumbsup:

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Brian is correct here. dot5 will have a higher boiling point.

Do not use DOT 5 brake fluid, as it is incompatible with DOT 4 or 5.1 fluid.

The brakes need bleeding, however do not try to bleed the brakes from the top. It is much more efficient and easier to reverse (back) bleed using a syringe filled with brake fluid and a rubber tube attached to the bleeder on the caliper.

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Damb! My ktms brakes suck bag compaired to my new 450s, try one of those after market rotors.

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Honda brakes suck?

Uh, NOT!

Swap out the fluid and bleed it out realllly good.

We often forget how much Brake-Fluid just LOVES to suck in moisture/water...

Good Luck!

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