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I removed all the lights, battery, and all associated wiring off of my '02 drz 400e. Trying to get that "moto-wiring" setup. I thought i would be able to get spark by just using the 4 leads, blue, green, white and black. I thought i didn't need the 3 yellow wires for the lighting source, but it wouldn't spark until i hooked up the red coming out of the voltage regulator to the orange coming out of the cdi and the black to common ground. Where is all the electricity going? The regulator gets very hot and the bike runs erratic after warm up. I noticed that the kick model runs some sort of condensor/capacitor/resistor something or other. Will that solve my problems? Will that dissipate the juice enough. I don't want to put everything back on. There must be someway to get this to work.

Thanks, Sturgie

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I thought I would be able to get spark by just using the 4 leads, blue, green, white and black.----No

I thought I didn't need the 3 yellow wires for the lighting source, but it wouldn't spark until I hooked up the red coming out of the voltage regulator to the orange coming out of the CDI and the black to common ground.----Yes, that is right. You need 12 vdc from a battery or from the alternator to get spark.

Where is all the electricity going?----Good question. The RR shunts as much power as it can to ground but common types of RR can only get rid of half the AC power generated. I do not know how the DRZ RR is made internally but I suspect it is the common type. However, there are examples of people doing what you are doing and it works.

The regulator gets very hot and the bike runs erratic after warm up. I noticed that the kick model runs some sort of condenser/capacitor/resistor something or other.-----Yes, a capacitor. (condenser is an old name for the same part)

Will that solve my problems?-----Yes, probably. With no battery you definitely need a capacitor to stabilize the voltage and smooth out the wave form.

Will that dissipate the juice enough. -----You will just have to try it and see. As I say, history says it will work. If you still have problems, options are: 1) install a small battery instead of a capacitor, 2) add a 55 watt light that is on all the time. 3) try disconnecting 1 of the 3 yellow wires (that should reduce alternator power out-put by two thirds)

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Thanks so much, Noble. I ordered the capacitor from kickstart model and that will be spliced in the system. And i'll also try dissconnecting one of the yellow wires. I really don't want to run a battery or a light, so hopefully these suggestions will be the ticket. I would appreciate any other thoughts from anyone, if you think they would help. Thanks everyone.

Sturgie

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The really proper way to reduce alternator out-put is to go into the stator coils and jumper some coils so you don't have to disconnect any wires. I doubt any of this will be necessary. The addition of a capacitor should do it.

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Hey Noble, not sure what you mean by "jumper coils". But i did disconnect one of the yellow wires at the plug and it still runs well. The capcitor is on the way. I guess i just connect one wire of the capcitor to the orange/red and the other to common ground. Where does the capcitor mount on the kickstart model? Somewhere away from heat, I guess. Hopefully this will work fine. Thanks again.

Sturgie

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The capacitor will be marked with + pos and - neg. pos to red wire. neg to ground. I think the kick start model mounted the cap behind the headlight but anyplace will do. Also it was in a rubber vib resistent mount.

Jumper a coil means in place of disconnecting 1 yellow wire, you leave all 3 connected and short 2 of the yellow wires together with a jumper wire. Please be advised I have not tried disconnecting 1 yellow wire or shorting 2 together. On paper it works but I do not know the long term affects of doing this on the stator. I know that normal RR function is to shunt power to ground and I know that KTM and many others open coils when lights are off. Suzuki and Honda in fact on older street bikes did just open coil wires when the headlight switch was turned off as a rough method of voltage control. I think either method is not destructive but I really don't know for sure. Jumper should reduce stator out-put by 1/3. Disconnecting 1 yellow should reduce stator out-put by 2/3. I don't know that you need to reduce out-put at all and I would try it with the cap and all 3 wires connected normally and see how that works.

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