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Removing hot start knob from fcr-mx?

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I just got my fcr-mx bolted on and the hot start knob hits my Clarke gas tank. Im not sure what the hotstart is even for I just got it because that one happened to be in stock. Is there a way to remove the knob as I don't really seem to need it?

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See if you can get the knob off the shaft. Use needlenose to hold the outer part of the shaft or something while you turn the knob.

There is a plunger the knob is hooked to. Totally removing the hotstart assembly would remove the plunger which closes an air passage inside the carb. So no you shouldn't remove it.

Modify away to suit your needs.

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I believe the hot start allows more air into the carb. I moved the hot start on my YZF to the handle bars with a $30 kit. I don't think you need it for the DRZ. You should be able to pull it off but plug any holes it leaves.

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I tried pulling off just the plastic "knob" and I am having a hell of a time with it. I will modify the knob if there is no way for me to take it off. But even at that there probably won't be enough room to use it so I may as well just take it off. But before I do I want to get some advice from someone who knows how do to this.

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I just dealt with this issue on my fcrmx. I posted a question similar to yours and Eddie (Burned) noted that the plunger had to stay in the carb bore. So, I removed the complete hotstart assembly and cut both the plastic nut assembly and the brass plunger so that it was no longer than the 10mm hex section of the plastic nut. You want to make sure that the plunger rod will still enter the plastic nut when it is installed in the carb body. The reason I did all this was so I could still use the spring on the assembly to hold the plunger in its closed position. I removed the red knob by holding the rod with a pliers (loosely) and driving the rod out of the knob with a center punch. Having someone hold the pliers will help you out a lot. Once everything was cut, I installed it in the carb, and I put JB weld on the assembly (not the carb body). This way it can still be removed if necessary. If you are careful with the JB weld and slap some black paint on it when it's dry it will look fine. I hope this helps; the explanation may be a bit difficult to understand. Post again if you have any questions.

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One other thing. I don't know which Clarke tank you have, but if you have the 3.9 gallon you will find that you can't use the choke. I haven't figured out what to do about that yet. I tried to modify it and ended up breaking the rod. Don't do that. Any ideas are appreciated!

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I was actually thinking about making some room by heathing up the plastic tank with a heat gun and bending it out of the way a bit. Then cutting the hotstart knob down threading the tip and putting a new end on it something like I did with the choke knob on this older fcr carb

Here's the clearance problem

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I considered the heat gun approach too, but I haven't tried it. From what I've read on here, you don't need the hotstart on a properly jetted bike; that's the main reason I removed mine altogether. It looks as though you have much more room than I did; I couldn't even get the 3.9 gallon tank on until I got rid of the hotstart. And now the choke knob is right against the tank (well, it was, until I broke it off, duh). Please post your results if you try the heat gun. Good luck!

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I was actually thinking about making some room by heathing up the plastic tank with a heat gun and bending it out of the way a bit. Then cutting the hotstart knob down threading the tip and putting a new end on it something like I did with the choke knob on this older fcr carb

Here's the clearance problem

Heat gun + gas tank = BAD :thumbsup:

If you don't ignite it, you stand a good chance of melting it.... Why don't you get your dremel (or something like it) and cut part of the knob away.

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Heat gun + gas tank = BAD :ride:

If you don't ignite it, you stand a good chance of melting it.... Why don't you get your dremel (or something like it) and cut part of the knob away.

I didn't have to deal with the hot-start, but, I did have the choke issue. I too cut the flange from one side of the choke knob. I still have to rotate the thing for max clearance, and always have to hold it on for a start(still don't have room for detent position), but luckily she warms up quickly in these temps. I've also noticed my magnetic tank-bag doesn't work vary well :thumbsup: anymore

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Kalabula, did you get this figured out? I also have an FCR-MX with the hotstart and wonder if I should wait and get one without the hotstart if there will be fitment issues.

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Kalabula, did you get this figured out? I also have an FCR-MX with the hotstart and wonder if I should wait and get one without the hotstart if there will be fitment issues.

Im not sure if the problem is with the hotstart as much as with the aftermarket Clarke tank. That is, if you have a stock tank I don't believe you will have this problem.

Also I am able to get everything bolted in place. It's just that the hotstart hits the bottum of the tank (rendering it unusable). I have been driving it like this for about a week and haven't noticed any ill effects as of yet. But I dont really like the idea of parts rubbing together that weren't meant to do so.

The fcr-mx throttle respnse is ridiculous though!

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Did you use the SUDCO adapter to the S boot or did you use an E boot? I'm wondering, does anyone know the answers to the following questions.

1. Is the E air boot 1/4" longer than the S boot? I know a lot of people have commented that they have to stretch the S boot 1/4" or so to bolt everything up. I'm mounting my list of parts for the conversion and am suspicious about this.

2. Will the SUDCO adapter work with the E boot? I happen to already have these two parts. There is the small rim around the edge of the SUDCO adapter -- would this need to be dremeled off to use with the E boot? It looks like the fit is tight, but I'm not sure how tight it is supposed to be. Is there any reason why the adapter couldn't be used with the E boot (otherwise I buy another $25 to $30 in parts for the E joint air cleaner).

3. What is the fitting (stubbed) on the E joint air cleaner fitting for? This is the E model part that would be used in lieu of the SUDCO adapter and has a fitting on it for some type of hose connection (or so it appears on the microfiche).

Thanks guys. :thumbsup:

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1. If the "E" boot is 1/4" longer then Im buying one.

2. Im not sure how tight the "E" will be but the "S" is a tight fit already.

3. I dont know what this means.

You will get a lot more answers if you post these questions in a new thread entitled something like "is the "E" boot longer then "S"?"

I would be very interested to find out if it is. On my "S" when I attach the carb to the "S" boot I need to pry the carb forword with a wrench to get it over the intake on the head.

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I went ahead and ordered the parts for both boots. I'll measure both when I get everything apart and let you know. Based on preliminary measurements I have made, the E boot appears to be about 1/4" longer than the S boot. The FCR carb, in turn, appears to be 1/4" shorter than the Mikuni. I'll verify this and post. Yes, this certainly cost me some extra dough, but I'll decide what fits best and sell the other option on Ebay. Sorry I had to snipe the carb from you a few weeks back. Where did you end up getting yours? Cheers.

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there is no stretching involved.

fitting the FCR carb gets turned into way more a project than it really is.i do them all the time in under 20 minutes with no choke interference and the carb straight.

its close to the petcock,but clears.

i dont use clarke tanks,but with stock and ims tanks this just isnt this hard of a deal.

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1. Is the E air boot 1/4" longer than the S boot? I know a lot of people have commented that they have to stretch the S boot 1/4" or so to bolt everything up. I'm mounting my list of parts for the conversion and am suspicious about this.

THERE IS NO STRETCHING!I GUESS IM GOING TO TAKE SOME PICS.THIS REALLY ISNT THAT HARD.

2. Will the SUDCO adapter work with the E boot? I happen to already have these two parts. There is the small rim around the edge of the SUDCO adapter -- would this need to be dremeled off to use with the E boot? It looks like the fit is tight, but I'm not sure how tight it is supposed to be. Is there any reason why the adapter couldn't be used with the E boot (otherwise I buy another $25 to $30 in parts for the E joint air cleaner).

NO,THE SUDCO ADPATER WILL NOT WORK WITH THE E BOOT.YOU HAVE TO USE THE E INTAKE BELL WITH E BOOT.

3. What is the fitting (stubbed) on the E joint air cleaner fitting for? This is the E model part that would be used in lieu of the SUDCO adapter and has a fitting on it for some type of hose connection (or so it appears on the microfiche).

ITS FOR THE COAST ENRICHENER ON THE OEM E CABR.ITS GETS CAPPED OFF IN YOUR APP.

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