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2005 Dr-z 125 wont idle

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Ive done all the searching in this forum for my issue and have come up with nothing that really helps. All other topics are for bikes that have been modded more then mine. The bike has not had any mods done to it other then a complete pro circuit T-4 exhaust system. Would drilling the cap on the carb for the fuel mixture screw and adjusting that be a fix or is this something that I am gonna have to play the jetting game with ? I am not look for anything other then to get the idle issue corrected. My wife is the rider of the bike and once this is fixed the bike is staying like this no other mods will be done.

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If you have done an exhaust upgrade, also remove the snorkel in the airbox.

This bike is known to be lean from the factory. You do need to get at the pilot screw. That is a nice little mod that will allow you to adjust the pilot system.

Here's how to dial in a pilot system:

Warm up the bike. Rev it up and cut the throttle. The RPMs should quickly return to idle. If they hang up and hunt around for awhile, then the pilot is too lean. Turn the piot screw CCW (out) to richen it. If you get more than 3 turns out and still don't have a nice return to idle, then you need to go up one size on the pilot jet.

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Thanks for the info ! I am gonna do this tonight and will post up my findings.

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dr_drz... thanks. I'm going to try this as well. I have an '05. Yosh pipe, drilled airbox, snorkle out and stock air filter. Coming into some turns this past saturday, it sorta felt like the bike wasn't dropping back to idle ... not much engine braking. Mostly I was in 3rd gear. I'm not sure if not having the pilot screw set correctly would have this much of an effect, but I'm sure mine's not set right for the few mods I've done.

Thanks again to you and others for taking the time to post a lot of very useful info.

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Ok guys I gotter all fixed up right. I took the carb off of the bike which took all of 2 minutes proceeded to take the bowl off just to have a look into the inside. I took the main and pilot jets out and looked to see what sizes they were and also to make sure there was no clog in the pilot jet since my problem was the bike would not idle unless on choke warm or cold. I found the pilot jet was clogged up. I then took some mechanics wire and proceeded to move it in and out of the jet to try and break up the clog along with spraying it with some carb cleaner. I got the pilot jet unclogged and reasembled the carb. Then I drilled the cap over the fuel screw and was again suprsed to what I had found. The screw was not even hardly turned out from full close. I turned it to full close and then out 1.5 turns. Installed the carb back on the bike, pulled the airbox snorkle out from the top and fired her up. All was good, the bike fired on second kick with the choke. I let the bike warm up and then set the idle and took it for a ride. The bike runs great now. Definitly a noticable difference considering all that was wrong. Thanks for taking the time to inform me on my issue Dr. Drz

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Follow-up question.... how quickly should it return to idle? Mine returns prett smoothly, but it's like slow motion.

rev....4..3...2..1...idle...

maybe a touch quicker than a 4 mississippi count...

no hunting around that I could detect.. but definitely not snappy action. I'm guessing that's a bit lethargic. I'm going to drill the plug and play with it a bit but want to know what the goal is... compared to what I described. Thanks again.

edit: compared to my CRF250X, it takes about twice as long for the DRZ to return to idle.

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you can use a small drill bit, just drill the cap, no farther, then get your self a wood screw and screw it in just until the threads catch, then pull it with a little side to side action, it should come right out.

Tom

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Thanks, I got it out. What's the procedure for adjusting that screw. The shop manual says 2 1/4 turns out. Is that enough. Someone said 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 turns.

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Read my post above on the procedure for adjusting the pilot screw.

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