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Wheel Adjusters Keep Moving!

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I don't know if its my fault and I'm not getting the axel Bolt tight enough, but after I adjust the rear wheel after a few rides the drive side adjuster moves down one or two notches. Is my bike maybe missing something that keeps it in place?? :thumbsup:

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Assuming you have the snail style adjusters like my bike, there is not much too it. I have yet to have a problem with the adjusters moving and I change my rear tire regularly (twice at least monthly during desert season) between dirt and sand tires. Snug the axle nut up before setting the adjusters (evenly) then tap the wheel forward in place (with your foot, a mallet, etc) to make sure it is set. Then crank the living s#it (follow the recommended torque settings......) out of the nut and make sure to re-install the cotter pin. Hopefully all works out.

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I would guess something is wrong in your assy. As I recall, the adjuster will slide on over the full axle dia but the washer between the adjuster and the nut will not fit over the axle diameter, just the thread. So if something is wrong in the assy, it is possible to tighten the nut and not clamp the wheel firmly. You are just going to have to take a close look at everything and see what is wrong/missing. Have you changed wheel bearings recently? Did you put the spacer between the bearings?

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I have taken the rear wheel off a couple times to swap out sprokets and I put everything back in that was taken off. The only thing I can think of is that there maybe a missing washer or something from the previous owner?? Dunno, but I will just try to crank down the bold a little more and keep my eye on it. Thanks for all your help guys!! :thumbsup:

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Remember to hold the sprocket side in place with a wrench while tightening brakeside. After you tap it foward of course.

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"Crank down a little more" is rarely the answer. If something is wrong, it may make it worse. The only washer is the one used under the nut between the nut and snail cam adjuster. Take the axle out. Make sure the threads and nut are good. Make sure the washer is the right one (slides easily over the threads) and make sure the snail cam sildes over the full axle diameter. Reassemble. Grease the threads. Tighten the nut and observe if the axle clamps the wheel to the swing arm. Full tight is 70 ft lb.

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Back to the torque wrench wars. 70 ft lb was only meant to be descriptive - nice and tight. Nothing wrong with using a torque wrench if you have a good one. Let me know if you can tell the difference between 70 and 72.5. (ft lbs not psi)

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Sounds like you are not pushing the wheel forward enough before tightening. Like suggested, give it a good wack with a heavy hammer, your foot etc after setting the position on the cams bolt to make sure its seated firmly. If not it could easily rotate out till it found its happy place.

I always tap both sides with a hammer or the end of a large wrench before tightening to set them up. Never had the cam bolt slip.

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Took a look at it and isn't missing anything. I will use all the tips suggested when I go to correct the problem, and go ride it like usual and keep my eyes on that adjuster. :thumbsup: Thanks again for all the tips and suggestions fellas!!

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I started using the old rag between the chain/sprocket trick to make sure it stays snug against the adjusters during retightening. I haven't had any problems.

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I stick a rag between the chain and the top of the sprocket and turn the wheel backwards the rag gets clamped between the chain and sprocket and tightens the snail adjusters nicely to the locator pegs - then tighten up that nut!

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I stick a rag between the chain and the top of the sprocket and turn the wheel backwards the rag gets clamped between the chain and sprocket and tightens the snail adjusters nicely to the locator pegs - then tighten up that nut!

+1, works great!

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