650R Edelbrock frustrations

To make a long story short i had to take my perfectly tuned edelbock carb apart to change the throttle return spring. after reinstall the bike ran very rich because i didn't reset the needle. fixed that but still couldn't tune, them i pulled off again and rechecked my work all good so i pulled the bowl and found the fuel height very low and fixed that problem. now i can't find a happy spot no matter how hard i try. my white brothers E can is showing white on the disks from running to lean. i am either 14 or 15 clicks from full rich with the middle size needle i think #19 but if i turn the dial even one click toward rich it runs like a bag of crap at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle . i know these questions have been posted to death but i am ready to put my stocker back on! i would have already but before i messed with it the bike was running perfect.

sure hope someone has an idea or two because I'm out :thumbsup:

My son's '02 BRP, Edelbrock, 19 needle, Honda power-Up kit, no other mods, runs good with the adjuster 6-8 clicks from full rich. Elevation here is 600-800 ft.

I ride from sea level to 2000 feet. i have drilled side cover, high flow air filter, stage 1 hot cam, fmf header, and white bros E series can(12 disc's). maybe i need to try the richer needle. i just don't under stand why it ran so good before and now i can't even make the bike ridable

I just went through a week of the same frustration.

#1) Make sure you didn't loose the brass check needle from the bowl flange. I'd had the carb apart many times and never had it come out, until it did! I never saw it leave.

#2) I left the carb body on and rotated it to remove the bowl. In the process, the slosh plate and fuel cell foam got a little out of place and were contacting the bottom of the float. This cause rich then lean and allot of &%$#@!?

By the time I figured all this out, I had adjusted the float level a dozen times and was ready to make a satellite out of the Edelbrock.

Good luck. Hope this helps.

i think i like the satellite idea!!!! thanx, i will take the carb off tomorrow and look at those. i might lower my float level also

According to Chris at Edelbrock, the float level should be 1/2" from the flange to the top of the float but, more important he said, is the fill time should be 3-5 seconds. With the bowl off and held level at the height it would be if installed, connect it to the petcock and time the fill. I did it the first time with only a little fuel in the tank. After adjusting the float level and filling the gas tank (more pressure) the level was too high. It probably would have been fine if I had not changed it in the first place. Anyway, do it with about a half tank of fuel as to average the fill pressure from the tank. The final level should be : fill time 3-5 sec and about 5/8 to 3/4 up the fuel inlet (brass needle seat).

Buena suerte amigo!

Thanks thorpey! today is the day, do or die for the edelbock!!!!!

Pulled all apart and everything looks good bowl fills in about 4 seconds. the fuel level is about halfway up the fuel inlet so i will adjust it up again. but i don't think thats my problem as the bike was running perfect when my float level was very low. out of the box the float level was so low that the float would only lift about a 1/4" from the bottom before shutting off the fuel and i had the bike running perfect! plug was a nice brown color and the fins on my exhaust where black. now that i have raised my fuel level the bike should be richer not leaner something else must be wrong. i have blown out all the passages and they are clean and free flowing. maybe there is a problem with the #19 needle.

The only thing I can think of is you lost the little steel ball that fits down a rather deep hole. If you lose it your in trouble. Not too much bigger than a BB.

which hole is that? because i did blow out all the passages. the only thing i know about is the needle that sits in a passage in the float bowl.

That would be the check ball that is at the bottom of the accelerator pump bore. If you have removed the pump rod, look down the bore and the ball is in the shoulderd hole that joins the bypass crossover (the passage the bypass screw is threaded into) .

problem solved!! turned out that i needed the #21 needle. I was able to dial in no problem once it was installed, even though i am 19 clicks out on the 21 with the 19 i couldn't make the bike run right no matter where the dial was set. not to mention way more pull at full throttle!

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