Easy Carb Off

I hated taking the carb off...seat, tank. throttle cables etc. until I read a post from JD waaaayy back in 2000 that he undoes the throttle cable at the handle bars!!!

I took both Taffys (engine brace to the left) and JD idea and worked them together.

Firstly move the engine brace on the right side to the left side so both are on the left. You have to do this so one time only until you are done messing with your carb. This makes a larger passage for the throttle cables and allows you to pull the carb out of the frame a little easier.

Carb Removal is then a no hassle 5 minute job

1) Fuel petcock off

2) Undo the throttle cables on the handle bar. (JD's idea) Be carefull not to twist the throttle in the process.

3) Disconnect fuel line, electrical connector, remove hot start

6) Loosen the rubber boots on either side of the carb. Wedge the air box boot behind the frame to keep it out of the way.

7) Pull the carb out

8) Rejet

9) Reinstall in reverse!!!

Notice there is NO seat, tank, flap removal and most of all NO throttle cable adjusters to mess with!

Last night I timed a rejet of the PAS screw : 10 minutes from start to stop !!

The only 'inconvenience'is that you have to work on the carb dangling by the side of the bike. For re-jetting this is no problem at all. If you want to do major overhall or clean it then you should probably remove completely.

Try it once and you'll be converted.

Oh yeah, and how do you get the needle out.... once the top is off use a pair of tweezers to grab the top of the needle.



they're all non believers! but maybe we can convert them-slowly.

oh! removing the needle if you've lost your pin nosed pliers?

hilarious! you stand there snapping the throttle open trying to catch it. never felt such a berk in my life. every time your fingers get there it's fallen back down.


I can Dig it man.....Will do it that way tomorrow...Thanks

Bonzai :)

To get that damn jet needle out, borrow a few of your wife's little hair clip thingies (dont know that they're actually called...but they're about 2 inches long and made of a fairly pliable, soft metal). Seems to work given that I dont have needlenose pliars that thin...not to mention, 1 less tool to carry around if you're changing jetting during a ride. And they're free...if your wife doesnt catch you stealing them...

Just an idea...

Also, just curious...but why do you mention taking off the hot start? Is this a 98/99/00 deal only...or would that same concept apply to my 01? Mine's nicely attached to the carb itself...and I cant envision a reason to have to take it off...

[ November 30, 2001: Message edited by: LarryCO ]

You are making it sound too hard to get the needle. Lift the slide from the intake side with a finger of one hand and push the needle up from the engine side between 2 fingers with the other hand. This only takes a second to do. :)

but i hadn't even removed the carb!


Originally posted by Taffy:

but i hadn't even removed the carb!


I'll be the one to bow and ask for your ways. How the hell do you do that Taffy!?!?!?!?


like women there's the front entry, the bottom entry and the top entry!

now onto carbs! :)

if i'm doing the airjets i undo the screws back and front and pull the carb out. no tank, seat, nothing. two screws and out.

if i'm doing the main or PS adjustment i do it in situ.

if i'm doing the PJ iagain undo the two screws and remove the carb. fuel falls approximately above the clutch pivot (not literally!)

if i'm doing the needle i undo one bolt for the seat, one bolt for the tank, loosen the two carb screws and just twist the carb to get at the two top allen screws. the forward one is a pig!

now with no APJ i can afford to wrench that throttle and try and grab that needle. as i said, very funny!!!

remember that with the two engine plates on the left the throttle cables which are normally the first thing to stop the carb turning can keep going. they're still the first thing to touch just under the frame but by then you're ok.

there is a little locating tongue on the inlet rubber to keep the carb vertical. you can see it underneath. but it's flexible enough to give way and go back again later.

another thing that can stop the carbis the little gadget that you feed the pipes through on the bottom of the carb, this i relocate around the otherside of the bottom APJ plate.

as i've indicated elsewhere i wouldn't even have to remove the tank if it was a YZ to do the needle!


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