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stuck oil drain bolt


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The oil drain bolt was stuck and the head stripped when i got this bike. I have been draining the oil via the 'long screen' bolt hole, but i recently i bought a replacement oil drain bolt and want to put it in.

Anyone have an idea how to get that thing out? It's in a terible spot...right up next to the frame so you cant get a 6 point socket on it...it's too rounded off for a wrench and vise grips just slip around it.

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Try laying the bikeon its side with drain plug up of course. Take a propane torch on a fairly low setting and wrm the plug and engine case aroung plug, you dont need to get it really hot. Usually that iwll let the metal expand and loosen its grip on the plug. Lightly tap the plug with a hammer and punch and it may just turn right out. Another option is to take a new 12 point socket that is a little small and pound it unto the plug. Haved also used torqx drive sockets to do the same. It is aluminun so they should go on fairly easy.

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Find a single hex spanner to fit it not the common twelve point

alot of cheap spanners come in single hex this is what you need if you cant get one. Get a set of pipe spanners they are 6 point or single hex you may have to tap it on but it should get it on its own if not then use a little heat like was said b4 easyouts are not the answer you may aswell pull the engine out and use a single hex socket if you are going to try to get a drill in there..... snap-on ill make a single hex spanner to but definatley not the cheapest fix for a once off YOU HOPE

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I had the drain plug strip on my 525 and my mechanic put in a carbon steel insert. This did mean removing the engine and splitting the cases. I was rebuilding any how, so just a bit more work. You'll have access problems with any extraction tools so plan to remove the engine from the frame.

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Had the same problem with my 525. Found this process worked.

1. Cut about 2-3 inches off a 10mm allen key you don't need!

2. Lay bike on side (Left side up).

3. Grind down one end of allen key to just B4 it slots into mangled plug.

4. Use a hammer to drive the allen key into plug. (Don't smash too hard!) :lame: Plug is fairly soft so allen key will create it's own grooves.

5. Now the vital part (HEAT)!! Gently heat around the plug for 10 -15 seconds with a butane torch. Ensure the engine is cold when you do this. Make sure that the plug itself is not heated.

6. Whack a 10mm socket on the allen key and out she will come ! ?

7. Take your new plug to an engineer and get him to weld a 13mm hex head on it or machine one up.

8. Buy a 1/4' drive tension wrench and ensure the plug is properly tensioned when replaced. Grease or apply oil to plug thread, NOT never seize.

Any feedback or suggestions appreciated ! ?

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I used a 3/8" drive allen head socket slightly larger than the bolt hole and pounded it in with a hammer. I then attached an old ratchet and pounded on the back of the ratchet while turning the bolt out. If you shock the threads like this it generally breaks the bond between the case and the bolt and you can screw it out. I did this on 3 of my RFS when the allen head stripeed on the bolt. I replaced them all with a Zipty replacement bolts with a 12 mm hex head

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I could have sworn he said the DRAIN bolt on the SIDE OF THE ENGINE. Not the Allen head on the bottom for the LONG SCREEN FILTER. I've worked on tons of KTMs that had the same thing. If you dont have the extractors that were mentioned,which BTW are great, lay the bike on it's side and if you have a set of Channel locks, use those to lock onto it and GENTLY work it back and forth. What usually happens is someone has tightened the snot out of it and and the two metals practically weld themselves together.You can try to shock it loose first with a large punch and hammer, just don't hit it super hard and crack the case When you do get it out, use ANTI SIEZE on the threads before you install the new one. Hope this helped you out, and good luck.

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