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MrNew head and piston wrapped up: Hard to kickstart!?!?!

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Thanks everyone. The narrow down my search, does the fact that it does kick eventually rule one of the possible causes out?
No, mine would kick eventually, just had to coax it a bit first. It could also quite possibly be the compression release mechanism is out of adjustment.

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No, mine would kick eventually, just had to coax it a bit first. It could also quite possibly be the compression release mechanism is out of adjustment.

Hmmm, ok. But I never touched that end of the cam...

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Might be just tight with the new piston and stuff. How many times have you turned it over completly??

Ive only kickedit over about 10 times. Was too hard. With kcick starter in top position I would kick andit would move like half an inch. Move it back up to top and with a lot of pushing it would go.

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first off if there was that much efort you should have not tryed to finish kiking it through if the cam timing were off enough to have the valves touching the piston there toast now to eliminate some of the possible poblems you may remove the clutch basket and see if the engine rotates smoothly .

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first off if there was that much efort you should have not tryed to finish kiking it through if the cam timing were off enough to have the valves touching the piston there toast now to eliminate some of the possible poblems you may remove the clutch basket and see if the engine rotates smoothly .

:thumbsup: Meaning regardless of what the cause is I need new valves now??? Im going to be sick....

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not if it is your clutch that was hanging up you need to determine what is happening .rmoveyour clutch cover andtry to roate the crank by the crank bollt with a allen whrench if it does not turn eazy then remove your clutch hub and atempt it again if the crank still comes against resistence then its in the head and valves .

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:thumbsup: Meaning regardless of what the cause is I need new valves now??? Im going to be sick....

Have you confirmed the timing marks yet? This should be your next step.

Compression release is not adjustable on the 250. It's dependant on cam timing, and exhaust valve clearance.

At the point where you can't kick it over, are the valves open or closed? This should be very easy to see with the cover removed. If they are closed, you have a decompression issue. If they are open, you have bigger problems...

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if your timeing is off u can put carb cleaner in the the ports to see if they are leaking i would checkin timeing if its off just correct it and try it, its easier to do that and see if it starts then to pull it all apart and check it and find out its ok and have to buy new gaskets and everything else that gos along with it

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not if it is your clutch that was hanging up you need to determine what is happening .rmoveyour clutch cover andtry to roate the crank by the crank bollt with a allen whrench if it does not turn eazy then remove your clutch hub and atempt it again if the crank still comes against resistence then its in the head and valves .

Before work only ahd time to check right side crankcase cover allen. It turned fine with the normal amount of resistance after one turn.

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Have you confirmed the timing marks yet? This should be your next step.

Compression release is not adjustable on the 250. It's dependant on cam timing, and exhaust valve clearance.

At the point where you can't kick it over, are the valves open or closed? This should be very easy to see with the cover removed. If they are closed, you have a decompression issue. If they are open, you have bigger problems...

Define "big problems"... toasted valves?

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Ok, if you can easily turn the crank over from the right side inspection / timing cover opening then the problem can't be in the valve train and timing or in the clutch. This is all engaged and rotating freely. The only thing left would have to be the kick start mechanism itself (since the kickstart gear is also driven by / drives the clutch gear)

Please verify that you can freely turn the crank over 2 complete revolutions not using the kick start lever as I assumed from your post.

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dude its not like u where full throttle when it happened just check clearances and timing that will tell u what u need to know

dude, :thumbsup: , when someone like RHC tells you something its to be respected. Valves were defintiely in clearance - spot on actually.

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This project has taken 2 weeks at an hour-here- and and hour-there, between work, soccer games, family engaements. :thumbsup: I dropped it off at the dealer. Im out of town a lot next week and have no more time to devote to it, witrh some races coming up after that. They felt on first thought that it was autodecomp issue. I will reprot back what they find.

Appreciate everyones support!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I know throttlejockey has to be giggling and shaking his head a little :lame:

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This project has taken 2 weeks at an hour-here- and and hour-there, between work, soccer games, family engaements. :thumbsup: I dropped it off at the dealer. Im out of town a lot next week and have no more time to devote to it, witrh some races coming up after that. They felt on first thought that it was autodecomp issue. I will reprot back what they find.

Appreciate everyones support!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I know throttlejockey has to be giggling and shaking his head a little :ride:

:lame::p:bonk::eek::bonk::mad::worthy::worthy::eek::eek::eek::eek::lol::prof::cry::D:naughty:

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Which part is naughty: having taken it to the dealer? I know, I know....

uhuh... the dealer....

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Appreciate everyones support!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I know throttlejockey has to be giggling and shaking his head a little :p

No giggling, but my neck hurts.

Kind of hard to follow exactly what you did in reference to turning it over. Did you turn it over after you got the head and piston put in with no problems?

Did you finish installing the clutch after that? If so, then it's probably clutch related.

Are you sure you're not making this stuff up? :thumbsup:

Are you lacking attention or something? :lame:

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Just checked that a few minutes ago. What would be wrong with it to cause that? I took it back off, turned the screw clockwise to retrack shaft, held it like that while I replaced the tensioner to head, then released it. Still reall hard to kick.

If the engine feels continuously "tight" throughout the entire revolution (no "loose" spots), it sounds a lot like the tensioner lifter issue we had when we reinstalled our tensioner without retracting it first. Ours also make a "rubber binding on metal" sound when it did move. Are you sure the cam chain is properly centered on the chain guide and tensioner (6 and 2)? Have you tried partly retracting the tensioner lifter to see if that helps? Did you have the lifter fully retracted while you installed it?

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