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Eddie Help please!!

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No problem Eddie. I am doing the fuel screw thing as I ride home and I will remove the potato when I get home and test it back at 2 turns out on the fuel screw. Thanks for all your help in this and I'm testing stuff as fast as I can. I work 10's so I havent had all the time in the world and I nailed out quit a few things at lunch but the potato is next. I'll let you know.

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Ok Eddie heres the final report, I can turn the fuel screw all the way in and it does not effect the idle at all. Hell I rode it all the way home (12 miles) and it did the exact same thing, no loss of performance, and no gain in performance. Still tries to die when I'm pulling off a light and sputters when I clutch and blip. I got home and turned the fuel screw out to 2 turns again and took the potato out. Rode her around the block and same thing. Maybe a bit better but I think it was just the loud pipe making me feel confident. What next boss?

EDIT: When I said earlier that the idle was affected by the fuel screw, I was screwing out. I remember I killed it, I opened it way up beause I thought it was starving for fuel causing the bog and having to rev and go. Not the case. Now that I look at it that was kinda backwards

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Not to hijack but this is related...I have recently installed the FCR-MX kit from TT and found symptoms of burbling/bogging at about 2000-5000 under a light load. Current setup is the following:

-2006 DRZ400SM

-FCR Carb with 155 MJ and 40 PJ (everything else left alone)

-Fuel Screw at 1 3/4 turns out (stock one that came with carb)

-3X3 mod

-Stock air filter and exhaust (exhaust not modified at all)

-Spark plug (stock) just changed...maybe 30 minutes on it

When air screw fully seated the bike does idle but it is not happy. At 1 turn out the idle is fastest and at 2.5 turns out the idle gets uneven and slows down. Using the settings above, there is a burbling/surging symptom under light load from 2000-5000 RPM. If I open the air box door this burbling gets worse. Finally no matter what I do, the acceleration from a light is good all the way to the top. My only concern is this light load surging and am wondering if this is just a symptom of this carb being more performance orientated. I know from cars that higher performance can result in trade offs between performance and drivability.

Does the PJ need to be smaller than even a 40? That seems rather small for this carb....anybody have ideas?

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I switched to a 40 PJ on my FCR-MX from TT store to take care of the low end bog, and burbling.... and the burbling is gone, but it still isn't as crisp as the old (re-jetted) BSR off of idle. Runs strong otherwise.

Strangely, my fuel screw has to be turned all the way in still for the bike to run well. If I back it out at all, it will start stumbling. I'm also wondering if I need to go down to a smaller PJ???

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This is funny. Eddie you shoul;d charge 99cents per post. At least then if people dont take your advice its worth another 99 cents to say it again.

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Heres mine again. I'm going to go pick up. a 40 PJ on monday. I'll report back. Hope the other 2 made their own thread instead of HI jaacking mine :thumbsup:

400S

3X3

full RS3 WITH potato insert

Twin Air

4000 ft.

Originally Posted by Eddie Sisneros..............

150 main jet

200 main jet

EMP needle

clip 3

45 pilot jet

100 pilot air jet

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Should I get anything else besides the 40 PJ just in case? Smaller main jet as well? These things are a dime a dozen so I just want my bases covered.

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OK eddie here is the latest. I put in the 40 PJ and that helped but the lunging was still there. Alot less stutter at the blip of the throttle while down shifting but again still there. I then replaced the Main Jet with a 145. Havent taken it out yet but will report today when I ride to work.

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Wow what a difference the 145 made!! Idles great, comes off the stop lightgreat, no missing at all when I blip the throttle, still has a slight lunge if I am running WOT and then cut the throttle then go WOT again. Thanks for all the help Eddie. Also I still don't have the slight "pop" on decel. I kinda want to fine tune this now. How do I get the pop back which would indicate a properly jetted carb?

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Thanks I'll go one more down on the PJ then and see what happens. The idle isint affected until I get the idle screw all the way snug so I think I need to go one smaller on the PJ. What is the next size down...never mind I'll look it up. Also it doesnt need choke to start, is that normal for the FCR or is that a sign that it is still running a bit rich. Thanks for all the help Ed :thumbsup::lame::p

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Wow ED, I put in the 38 PJ and I have a huge amount of cuss words to put in this thread. As of now the jetting is right an I am doing 3rd gear wheelies on stock sprockets for the S. Thanks for all the help. All is running perfect and I am stoked as all hell. Check out benddualsport.com for future pics of me and the FCr. 100% happy onve the jetting is dead on. :thumbsup::lame::p

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Why do you still have to rub it in.....its like pouring salt on a roadrash burn......it hurts! anyways glad you figured it out.....

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im on the quest to figure out why the latest batch of fcr's seem to want smaller pilot jets.

im beggining to think the 100 pilot air jets are not actually 100's.

either way,glad you got it sorted.

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im on the quest to figure out why the latest betch of fcr's seem to want msaller pilot jetts.

im beggining to think the 100 pilot air jets are not actually 100's.

either way,glad you got it sorted.

Well if you need me to look at somthing just ask. I'm now a pro at removing and re installing the FCR-MX

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