Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

how long does the Red Loctite fix on Front sprocket last?

Recommended Posts

Just checked mine today and it was loose. :thumbsup:

I'd checked it at 3K miles, and it was still tight, but did the red loctite fix anyway.

Put Red Loctite (Stud & Bearing) on the splines and nut, and tightened the nut, left it overnight

Checked it again at about 7K after purchase of a Torque wrench, and nut wasn't torqued to 80lbs, although I put this down to the fact that maybe I didn't have done it up to 80lbs in the absence of the torque wrench

Checked it again today (nearly 9K miles) and it was loose.

No sign of any loctite on the splines (just rust, and shiny metal where the sprocket has been in contact on the splines), and just little on the thread.

No roughness in the transmission, when turning the output shaft in neutral so hopefully no damage to the 2nd gear bushing.

So as the title of the thread says, does anybody know how often this needs re-doing/checking.

Can't afford for this bike to be off the road as its my winter ride to work bike,

and winter is coming

Any input from Burned, Bronco, Noble much appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I dont remeber the time span but when i wanted to remove my sprocket after doing the loctite fix,i needed to tap it ever so gently with a panel pin hammer to release it.hope it helps.

Andy UK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just changed my front sprocket. After a year and a half of use the locktite was still there and solid and showing no signs of going anywhere. I think the senerio you described is at fault.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine did the same thing, I just redid it with the red and kept an eye on it. No binding for me either after assembly. Mine has went loose a couple times this summer and I think I've put on 5-6000km's. From what I understand you have to keep using the red and put it on the splines and the threads. :thumbsup: vanram

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just changed my front sprocket. After a year and a half of use the locktite was still there and solid and showing no signs of going anywhere. I think the senerio you described is at fault.

Please expand - what is at fault?

I loctited the splines and nut as per documented fix here on TT, yet the sprocket was loose when I checked it today (nut hadn't come undone as it was held in place by tab washer), coz the loctite had worn away / disolved / melted / washed away etc etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

locktite271.jpg

Cure time is temp dependent. as well as if you use a primer or not. Assuming you cleaned all oil and grease from the threads and splines, there is o reason Locktite 271 should not have cured over night.

With Primer, for faster cure or when large gaps are present

locktite271primer.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the initial treatment didn't take for whatever reason. It's possable now that the sprocket splines are beat and the gap is excessive. If I were you I would replace the sprocket useing plenty of red LT, torqe to spec and forget about it. By the way, I like your sig. ( piano player in a brothel :thumbsup: )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bronco is right...partially.

Primers will speed cure times and help fill larger gaps, however, there is a slight decrease in strength when you use a primer. For the threads, I suggest Loctite 2760 High Strength Threadlocker...no primer needed. For the splines, you need to use a Loctite Retaining Compound like 680 or 638 if you want the strongest fit. "Red" threadlocker is not viscous enough to fill the gaps on the splines, the above mentioned retaining compounds are.

Done correctly, these Loctite products will last and not degrade. I know...I work for the company! www.loctite.com

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good! So you can send me a couple tubes of the red stuff free then? I bought the blue for some bolts on my wife's SV650... but no red.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
won't help. the nut doesn't move.

Yes, I understand it is more a case of the CS Sprocket wiggling back and forth opening up the spline tolerances...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Bronco is right...partially.

Primers will speed cure times and help fill larger gaps, however, there is a slight decrease in strength when you use a primer. For the threads, I suggest Loctite 2760 High Strength Threadlocker...no primer needed. For the splines, you need to use a Loctite Retaining Compound like 680 or 638 if you want the strongest fit. "Red" threadlocker is not viscous enough to fill the gaps on the splines, the above mentioned retaining compounds are.

Done correctly, these Loctite products will last and not degrade. I know...I work for the company! www.loctite.com

Locktite 271 has in the past, and will now work perfectly well for the application as advertised here on TT. No It is not spec'd to do so. No, you'll not get a tech rep from Henkel admit it it will work as it's recommended here. And no, it should not work according to what the data sheet shows,, But damn if it has not worked perfectly for hundreds if not thousands of DRZ owners.

When using activator with #271, it will achieve 75% of full strength (% vs not using activator ) Again,,, we can quibble over what the data sheets say,, but it's proven to work,no matter what the engineers say.

pkrflyguy thanks for the alternate suggestions for Locktite products. you are the first "company" man to do anything here other than crap on us for using thread locker as we have been... :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Bronco is right...partially.

Primers will speed cure times and help fill larger gaps, however, there is a slight decrease in strength when you use a primer. For the threads, I suggest Loctite 2760 High Strength Threadlocker...no primer needed. For the splines, you need to use a Loctite Retaining Compound like 680 or 638 if you want the strongest fit. "Red" threadlocker is not viscous enough to fill the gaps on the splines, the above mentioned retaining compounds are.

Done correctly, these Loctite products will last and not degrade. I know...I work for the company! www.loctite.com

Thank you pkrflyguy, but if I use 680 or 638 will I still be able to get the sprocket off with a two legged puller?

How permanent are these two products - are they designed to allow disassembly.

I have looked the loctite site and the examples of use seem to be more or less permanent but can be removed with 250°C of heat but that would probably destroy the gearbox seal. Obviously I still need to be able to get the sprocket off for replacement etc.

I have some Loctite 603 which seems to be similar, would this be suitable? I know that the strength of this is high, but is breakable with force

As a point of clarifaction for some of theearlier replies, I did clean the splines the first time I did it, with contact cleaner. It was spotlessly clean, but it still failed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Could people be running their chains to tight causing this issue. :thumbsup:

Looking at the factory specs for the chain they recommend 1 1/2" of slack, looking at a chain from the side with that much play, it looks pretty loose. I'm betting alot of guys are seeing the same thing and tightning them up, maybe a bit too much. :lame:

Ron W.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thank you pkrflyguy, but if I use 680 or 638 will I still be able to get the sprocket off with a two legged puller?

How permanent are these two products - are they designed to allow disassembly.

I have looked the loctite site and the examples of use seem to be more or less permanent but can be removed with 250°C of heat but that would probably destroy the gearbox seal. Obviously I still need to be able to get the sprocket off for replacement etc.

I have some Loctite 603 which seems to be similar, would this be suitable? I know that the strength of this is high, but is breakable with force

As a point of clarifaction for some of theearlier replies, I did clean the splines the first time I did it, with contact cleaner. It was spotlessly clean, but it still failed

Something went wrong,, CS was not as clean as you thought. Thread locker was not cured when you placed the bike into operation, or there is something more going on with your bike, then the issue we are tiring to address with a few drops of 271 locktite. Way to many people have used it and had it worked the first and every time.

Check your sprocket, nut, CS for excessive wear, replace if your find excessive clearance. Try a new tube of 271 to rule out contaminated product, Remove all rust,scale and old locktite from the CS splines and thread. Do the same for the nut and sprocket, Use your contact cleaner, or brake cleaner to de grease. Let air dry. 3~4 drops of 271 on the splines, 1 drop on the threads. Install nut to 80 ft lb. Let sit overnight (at least 6 hours) Go ride.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Could people be running their chains to tight causing this issue. :thumbsup:

Looking at the factory specs for the chain they recommend 1 1/2" of slack, looking at a chain from the side with that much play, it looks pretty loose. I'm betting alot of guys are seeing the same thing and tightning them up, maybe a bit too much. :lame:

Ron W.

Well anything is possible.. And for some,sure that may have been a contributing factor.. But way to many folks have had this issue, with a known correctly adjusted chain. Myself included.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Bronco is right...partially.

Primers will speed cure times and help fill larger gaps, however, there is a slight decrease in strength when you use a primer. For the threads, I suggest Loctite 2760 High Strength Threadlocker...no primer needed. For the splines, you need to use a Loctite Retaining Compound like 680 or 638 if you want the strongest fit. "Red" threadlocker is not viscous enough to fill the gaps on the splines, the above mentioned retaining compounds are.

Done correctly, these Loctite products will last and not degrade. I know...I work for the company! www.loctite.com

Interesting. :thumbsup: I, to, am interested in the disassembly process when using 680 or 638 though. Will a standard puller do for removal? Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×