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another another c/s nut victim

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Well, victim may be too strong a word. Or is it? Victim of my own stupidity?

I tightened the nut last year when replacing the front sprocket. Didn't red loctite cause I didn't think it was necessary! :thumbsup: Thought it was overkill.

Noticed oil dripping from the skid plate. Removed it and saw the bottom of the crankcase coated with oil. Did oil and filter change. Test rode the bike.

Then notice the rear axle had slipped out of alignment. Fixed that.

Finally...don't know why....touched the css nut and saw it was loose. Removed front sprocket cover, unbent washer, and spun the nut off the shaft with my fingers.

Was the oil from leaking from behind the shaft???

I was going to ride tomorrow, so I'm glad I found this tonight. Hope there isn't any damage.

How long does it take red loctite to set? And what's the recommended torque? 101.5 or 79.5?

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Well I checked mine again over the weekend and mine was loose too! :eek: I had checked it probably about 3 months before and it was tight. I checked it again and the nut was loose :p but the bent washer was keeping it from backing off. :thumbsup: I used Blue lock-tite because I want to be able to take it off again but I still wanted the security. Thank God for that bent washer. :lame: I put it back together and bent down two sides of the washer. But I will check this more often now. Thanks for the great advice on all these issues. Thumpertalk Rules!! :bonk:

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It was made clear to me that the nut can become loose without actually backing off :p ....so if the nut comes loose and has not actually moved... wouldn't that mean that something behind the nut has worn to the point of needing replacement :thumbsup: ? other than the seal and spacer? :lame:

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you guys need to actually read up on this.its only been discussed 100's of times.

the bushing on the other side of the bearing wears letting the clamping force off the nut.this happens from the sprocket rocking on the splines.

if it gets bad enough the trans will seize when the nut is retorqued.

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Also, in response to this comment...

I used Blue lock-tite because I want to be able to take it off again but I still wanted the security.

Use RED Loctite and buy yourself a five dollar puller at your local hardware store. The sprocket will come off very easily. There's no reason to compromise and use the blue stuff.

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All DRZs should have the CS nut removed, red Loctite applied to the threads and splines, and reinstalled and torqued to 80 lbs/ft, as soon as they come off the showroom floor.

The inherent problem with the nut loosening DESPITE the presence of the lock washer, is cured by the application of red Loctite.

Do a search for 'CS Sprocket Red Loctite' and you will get a wealth of information on the subject. It's prevetative manitenance that all the DRZ gurus on this forum agree upon, even if they don't all agree on WHY the loosening occurs.

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I'm wondering guys, maybe we are keeping the chain to tight...

Is everyone keeping the 1 1/2" of slack as factory recommends???

If I remember, the chain tightens up when rear end drops while riding.

Ron W.

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I'm wondering guys, maybe we are keeping the chain to tight...

Is everyone keeping the 1 1/2" of slack as factory recommends???

If I remember, the chain tightens up when rear end drops while riding.

Ron W.

Bike up on a stand w/approx. 3 fingers at the rear tire. Still had a leak which required replacing the oil seal.

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:p Just to add to this topic, I have never used any loctite other than on the thread of the c/s. (tho I am now wondering!) :thumbsup: What I did very early on is to replace the OEM spacer with a Stainless steel one made to the same spec as the original. The c/s nut has ALWAYS been F****NG tight when removal for new sprockets etc required removal. I can only surmise that the Japanese steel spacer is made of butter and/or stainless steel is naturally harder and doesn't wear/compress in this use. I can recommend them from four years dirt riding with no problems. I got mine from a UK supplier who also made wheel spacers in the same material and my wheel bearings now last 5 times longer than when it had the alloy originals fitted. I think they are now regularly sold on ebayUK. :lame:

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Well, after some thought on this topic I ended up taking off the front sprocket, cleaning everything, and applying red locktite as described and re-torqued to 80ftlbs. I must say, I do feel more comfortable. Everything looked and felt fine. The nut was tight, but not 80 by any means so it probably was a good idea. As I've been reading there are just too many stories about this issue so I figured what the heck. It was painless. Thanks for the info. :thumbsup:

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Well, I took a look at the sprocket last night and the damn thing is welded onto the splines with locktite. I'm going to pull it cause all these threads on the problem have me worried. But I'm now back to thinking that my oil leak was the crush washer on the crankcase engine plug needing to be replaced.

Is the "bushing" Eddie is talking about the spacer? I've ordered replacement spacer, oil seal and o-ring since I'm not sure where the oil came from. Gotta check that spacer for wear.

Hope "bushing" = "spacer" or now I'm even more confused! :thumbsup:

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28.00 GBP to the US

28 GBP = 52.7183 USD

It's a lot, but if your one of the few that has a problem like this.. The price is not bad,, and It does work.

If your replacing anyway,, I'd spend the money. But keep in mind, thousands and thousands of DRZ bikes are out there have no problem at all with this "rusting and destruction" :thumbsdn: I rode three years in the Pacific North wet,, never had a problem with mine. :excuseme:

Bottom line.. If your having corrosion issues with the countershaft bushing.. Get some SS ones :devil: If your not, spend your money elsewhere.

Thanks for the link millemg :thumbsdn:

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How Often Should The Cs Nut Be Check And Or Retorqued. I Have 600 Miles. Is It Time Yet?

Seriously man take it off today and do the fix. Mine was loose after a few hundred miles.

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if it becomes loose, can future damage be avoided by replacing the worn bushing or is other damage done inside other than the bushing?

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