So I decided to try this modification suggested by Yamajeb. Taking the stock ratio 3.77 (Stock Sprocket 13/49) to 3.50 to (14/49) using 14 tooth Moose Counter Sprocket part number 1212-0062. This isn't a huge gear ratio change, so was it worth the $17. Yes - I did get some noticeable difference in the top end like I could really feel a jolt going from 4 to 5 and a little more going to 6th gear. Also the larger front sprocket will reduce wear on the chain. - here's a visual. Credit goes to Yamajeb for the how to: -remove the shift lever and then the c/s cover. You'll notice the case saver I wrote about behind the cover, it comes off too. -loosen your rear wheel axle (to give the chain slack) and loosen the two bolts holding the c/s in place. -set the bike on a stand to get the rear wheel off the ground. Get as much slack in the chain as possible. -remove the c/s bolts and the locking ring (the ring "twists" off) -pull the c/s off the drive shaft with the chain on then slip the c/s off of the chain. -you'll need to remove some from the inside curve of the chain saver to accomodate for the larger c/s. How much? Measure the difference in diameters and remove half of the difference (the difference in radius). -work the new c/s onto the drive shaft with the chain on it. It's a bit of a pain but having the rear wheel off the ground and as much slack in the chain as possible will help. -once the c/s is on, reinstall the locking ring and the c/s bolts. For chain tension you'll have to fine tune but I ended up with the snail cams near the "2" mark. Start there and tighten the rear axle. (Also - check your rear sprocket and tighten all bolts as they come loose) -Reinstall the case saver and c/s cover. Before reinstalling the shift lever, move your bike forward and reverse directions to make sure you don't hear new rubbing sounds - if you do remove a bit more of the inside curve of your case saver. -Reinstall the shift lever. Recheck chain tension.