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Let's hypothesize for a second here...

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Let's just say I have a friend with the exact same bike as me. And let's say that it's his first experience with an aircooled motor. Let's, just for s***s and giggles, say that he sits in traffic for a long time and happily idles the bike with nary a breeze in the air. And perhaps maybe, once he's out of the traffic, he putters along the freeway and his bike starts to make loud, ugly sounds. When this friend of mine puts in the clutch in terror, and the motor stops, and he coasts to the side of the road, and I... I mean he walks to get some oil, returns, fills it up, and tries to start the bike, and it actually starts, he is shocked. But he accepts this gift from heaven and pampers it home.

Now my friend's bike sounds quite loud, clackity, and just downright ugly. What is the best and worst case scenario for my buddy?

:thumbsup::lame:

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What model/year bike is it? How much oil did he need to pour in to get it up to the level, and where did the oil go? Did it leak out, or was he just riding it with a low level in the first place?

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So yer sayin' this fella ran out of oil,, or was hopin' it would be the FIX?

Best= Keep some oil in it...at least where you can see it in the window....

Wrost= Gonna Call Jesse and get your credit card out.....

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Try checking the valve clearances. If it was super hot in the head, the valves and ports may have changed geometry enough from thermal expansion that shit got out of wack, which may also explain it stalling out on you. Adding the oil probably didn't do much, but allowing it to just sit there probably cooled it enough to fire it back up. That may explain the clack you hear, unless it's a deeper clunking sound, then you're screwed.

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Try checking the valve clearances. If it was super hot in the head, the valves and ports may have changed geometry enough from thermal expansion that shit got out of wack, which may also explain it stalling out on you. Adding the oil probably didn't do much, but allowing it to just sit there probably cooled it enough to fire it back up. That may explain the clack you hear, unless it's a deeper clunking sound, then you're screwed.

Thanks for all the comments. Yup, I know I'm screwed, as I poured through 5 liters of oil today, then did 3 changes with a couple km's between each. Bottom of my oil-catch pan has a fine coating of snow :thumbsup:

The racket I CAN hear however is all top end. So crossing the fingers that the little DR has a rabbit's ear stuffed up its ass! With that said however, which big bore kit should I go with considering I'm 90% city driving, but when on trails mainly fire roads?

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low :thumbsup: I take full responbility though. Gotta learn lessons hard sometimes.

Where did the oil go? Well I ride the bike fairly hard and it has the beginning of leaky valve stem symptoms (blows smoke at high rpm if you snap the throttle shut). Im guessing that, combined with the traffic and cooking it, ate it all up.

Took it to a shop and got word back yesterday that the top end is cooked. Needs a new cam, rocker arms, seals, and whatever else is up there. No knocking from below so Im going to leave that for now.

So I'm in the market for parts:) Feel free to PM. Just thought I would update this space.

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Yep you just learned the most important lesson you'll ever learn in your life. Without oil and oil pressure your engine will die. some people seem to think they can get away with it. the top end peices all have sliding friction which means hard metal rubbing hard metal. Without oil it all goes bad. Also I'd count on a new piston, rings, maybe even an overbore. Maybe the oil pump crapped out too. I'm sure the lower end is worn out bad also.

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My ex-wife (bless her whoring little heart) allowed her 1979 Honda Civic to run low on oil twice. Even though it was a water cooled engine, the aluminum head engine - not sure if the block was aluminum - final took a BIG dump. The short block was OK, everything else was burnt toast. Sheat happens !

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I bet your head is toast...most likely the cam bearings are siezed. Piston/Rings might be okay. Look for scoring when you take the head off.

Take the head and send it to Engine Dynamics in California (enginedymanics.com) and let Mike look at it.

He's fixed some really messed up heads in his career.

He welds up and recuts the bearing surfaces in the head and since you only have one cam up there...you might get away cheap...like $3-500 for bearings valves guides and seals.

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