yz426 moves with clutch pulled in

I put a new clutch in it. I checked every thing else over its all perfect condition. The new clutch has about 40 Min's on it and i started hearing a noise kind of like scraping and it got louder and louder as i drove. Well i stopped on the road, put it in first gear and held the clutch in and hit the throttle to about 6000rpm and i started moving pretty good.

I soaked the plates for 2 days and the clutch cable is adjusted.

What is causing this? I noticed that if i kick start it in neutral its easy to start but if i put it in gear and pull the clutch in its hard to kick and cant get it to start.

Its like when i pull the clutch lever in the clutch is still a little engaged gripping and i think it might not be fully engaging when the clutch lever is out.

What order to the plates go in a 02 426? theirs 2 metal spacer things and then theirs the fibers and steal plates and one fiber is different shape from them all. What order?

Whats up?


The odd plate goes first, and item 14 is a narrow, concave spring. It goes next, positioned so that the concave side is facing out. Then the plate seat (13), then the rest of the plates.

you'll probably find too that the scraping noise was the pressure plate grinding on the inside of the cover. Been down this rode with a faulty basket from Hinson. Let us know what you find.

... a faulty basket from Hinson.
Faulty how?

Is your cable stretched?

Not sure what the scraping noise would be, but my guess would be that the plates are not in the right order.

Took the the clutch apart. Took out all plates and they were all in the right order except the 2 little spacer things. I put them in the right place then.

I looked and I don't see no scrapes on the basket.

The inner hub was good cause it only has about a hour n half on it.

The outer hub or w/e its called (the thing were the springs go) Well the out side of it was all scratched up.

The inside of the cover is all scratched and grounded too.

The clutch fibers and metal things were all good except one thing. All my metal things have little dots indented in all the metal plates from factory. Well all were still like that except the first one farthest in the motor all the dots were wore off it. :thumbsup:

After i put it all back to gather and put oil back in it i put it in gear and tried to roll it. It was really hard to roll. So then i thought maybe it was rolling hard cause the clutch lever is adj to tight :lame:. I loosened it up about a courter inch and it did roll easier but still made that weird noise.

Well i started it up, pulled in the clutch popped it in first gear and kept the clutch pulled in and hit the throttle. It didn't move so i thought i must have fixed it. Well then after like the motor heated up i stopped on the driveway and put it in gear and pulled the clutch in and hit the throttle. It started to move a little. I thought the hell with it I'm still gonna drive. So i drove for a nother 20 Min's and parked it up by the house. Well a half hour went by and it started getting dark. Well the motor cooled down allot by then and i went out started it up and put it in first gear and kept the clutch pulled in and hit the throttle and it didn't roll :p. It was being normal again. Well i parked it after that cause no lights.

So &%$#@! is going on?

When i took the clutch cover off and would pull the clutch lever in well i would feel the clutch plates with my finger and some times they seemed like they would get stuck and not get totally loose. Could them teeth things on the plates be a little to fat were their getting stuck from the basket?

Also the new fiber's on the outer teeth things to catch on the basket, well on every plate their is 2 indents on tooth and on a nother tooth their is 1 indent. What are them for?

Look at pic. you can see the notches I'm talking about.


The kick starter is still stiffer to kick down when in gear and i still haven't been able to get it started in any gear other than neutral and in neutral the kicker is easier to kick down.

Still seems like if its in gear with the clutch pulled in i have to keep the throttle on or it will snub out But in neutral it will stay running good.

When the motor is idling it will not go in neutral But if I'm going at about 10-15mph and try to put in in neutral it will go in it easily.

The outer hub or w/e its called (the thing were the springs go) Well the out side of it was all scratched up.
That's your problem right there. The Pressure plate (what you called the outer hub) is hitting the cover, and so cannot lift off of the clutch plates far enough for them to release.

There are a few things that could cause this.

> The nut that holds the clutch inner hub, or boss, on is loose, allowing the whole clutch to be pushed outward.

> You have too many plates installed, or, if they are some cheapo aftermarket brand, the plates are too thick, which makes the clutch stack up too deep.

> The right hand main shaft bearing is very badly damaged.

> Any of these in combination.

Well the stock clutch worked perfect before.

Then a month ago i bought the tusk kit. Tust is called a good kit.

Well i had the new plates all in and then was screwing the spring bolts down and 1 head snapped off so i needed a new inner hub. Well i got the hub off and the only thing left in side for a clutch was the basket. Well i slid that off just to see how the the inside stuff was holding up. It was all good so put the basket back on.

Then i got the new inner hub put that on and and the rest of the clutch and noticed it was scrapping.

The nut i twisted on seemed tight.

gray racer-- The Hinson basket had gotten sent along by "accident", directly from Hinson. Hinson had a recall on it; evidently it hadn't been machined deep enough to accomodate all of the plates. With that being said, the bike had the same symptoms as "loudmuffler" is having. After contacting Hinson, they were very helpful in getting me straightened out, but they wouldn't buy me a new side plate cover, that had suffered galls and scratches. I just used fine sand paper and polished back up.

I misjudged you. I thought you were going to say what I usually hear: the basket was defective because the bolts (that I didn't tighten, Loc-Tite, and stake well enough) came loose. :thumbsup:

> The right hand main shaft bearing is very badly damaged.

I'm having the same problem with my 400 and I hope this isn't the cause.

I'm having the same problem with my 400 and I hope this isn't the cause.

What is the best way to test for this without tearing the engine apart?

My clutch is getting worse. Now the quad wont move with it in gear and the clutch pulled in when i push it.

So its my bolt or what? It worked perfect till i too it apart.

It worked perfect till i too it apart.
Then, I'd guess that had something to do with it, wouldn't you?
What is the best way to test for this without tearing the engine apart?
Remove the clutch, or at least the plates, and check for play in the bearing. With the clutch off, you can look pretty much right at it.

I took it apart and cant figger it out. Wit hteh motor not on if i put it in gear and pull teh clutch in the tires dont want to move at alla nd if i forse it to it makes a scrapping sound or else teh piston starts moving up and down.

When i drive it i can put it in gear and hold the clutc hin and it will stay running. Im stumped.

If your YZ426 is a 2000 you have to change the clutch actuaror arm to use that style inner clutch disk and metal plates


If your YZ426 is a 2000 you have to change the clutch actuaror arm to use that style inner clutch disk and metal plates


You shouldnt have to change anything nor should the actuator arm's length have any effect on the operation, just the leverage.
Remove the clutch, or at least the plates, and check for play in the bearing. With the clutch off, you can look pretty much right at it.

Is there anything else I should check while I'm in there? I've replaced everything but the pressure plate and Basket, from the cable to the bolts that hold the pressure plate on.

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