Breaking In My L



Ok, so I've read the threads and have decided to go with the Hard break in but.....

HOW do you do it w/o a tach?

I plan on doing some 2nd/3rd gear sprints and then backing off the throttle for some reverse compression....but how long do I hold the high RPM's and how do I know if too much is too much?

Also...I'm planning on about 20 miles of this...should that properly do the job?


New bike, or just a top end rebuild?

If it's just the rings that need breaking in, flog it. Worked for me. I parked next to a 200 foot hill climb, and did it over and over again. After about a half hour of that, I did some "normal" riding. At the end of the day I changed the oil. A whole lot of finely divided metal came out. Glad I changed it. Bike has been running great since.

If it's totally new, I'd take is a bit easier.

As far as not having a tach goes, just go by ear. I didn't rev mine too high for the first few minutes. I did gas it a lot, just shifted early. After 10 minutes I started revving it more and more. My understanding is that putting the engine under a load and opening the throttle are important, just don't do really high revs at first.

Thanks...yes, new bike....less than a mile right now...

Don't BEAT it hard for the break in.

Just Vary the RPMs, but don't lug it either. Loading and unloading the rings seats them good for max compression (hp). You don't want to run WFO for any length of time as that's bad for bottom end.


I am in the same boat (brand new L) and thinking of how to break it in. I think i am just plan going to do the recommended 600 mile break in in various RPM ranges and such and not flog it that much, if at all. Then change fluids and check everything.

Is there a trick i am missing or what? Is there a better known break in procedure?


I would just ride normal, but take it easy for the first 500mi or so. Then start running a good full synthetic oil after break in. You dont want to seat rings with wait a bit to use it.

Oil should be changed every 500mi in my oppinion.

Myself I believe that varying the rpm's is most important. But believe in the heat cycle method. Five stages, first crank and let idle for 10 minutes, turn off let cool completely. Second ride her easy for about twenty minutes 1/4 throttle max, rpms are varied as you go through the gears, turn off let cool. Third repeat stage two. Fourth, crank, warm up, ride for 30 minutes using max 1/2 throttle, let cool. Fifth, crank warm up, ride for an hour max 1/2 throttle, once again do not hold steady engine speed keep varying, let cool.

before you ride again change oil and filter, first oil change is most critical removes any contaminants from oil, and metal particals from assembly. This should be around a 100- 150 miles, but the miles are not whats important its the heat cycles that allow all the engine parts to seat correctly. Then I would ride her at legal type riding style (on the street) if I said normal to some poeple that would mean W.F.O. change your oil again at about 500 miles (not filter) then again at 1000 including filter then if you desire you may use a sythentic, but at no time should you use any oil with a moly additive. My personal opinion is that conventional oil is more than adequate with oil changes in the 1000- 1500 mile range. You will get many opinions on break in but my experience with small bore motors has taught me that its the heat that "breaks" them in not the miles. Good luck. Theres my six cents!! :thumbsup:

Here is a good source for one of the methods mentioned on this thread, and the one I have used with excellent results:

Basically, don't do what the owners manual says to do.

And squatpuke, don't worry about revving the engines on these things new. They have a rev limiter built into the electronic ignition, but I doubt you'll be able to reach it with the stock muffler :thumbsup:

First the above mentioned heat cycle method does not heat treat any engine parts, it merely runs them through normal operating temps. to wear in the bearing surfaces, gears, chains, and clutch components to allow them to mesh better for a longer life. That said there is no reason that accelerating hard during the first 20 or so miles requires a full throttle. I think that the big picture here is entire engine break in and not just a seating of the rings on the cylinder wall. The valves need the heat cycling to properly seat, you flog a new motor the valves do not properly seat, the guides do not properly wear in, and with the multivalved engines of today makes this more important because the components are smaller and more easily damaged when new. Besides which is more expensive a comprehensive overhaul or a piston and ring replacement.

just ride it normaly , every so often give it a good rpm run through a gear or 2.

You dont need a tach , just listen to the engine .

These engines break in a lot quicker than you realize.

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