XR650R Electrical upgrades complete (fi-nah-LEE!)

Several of you who were aware of some electrical mods I was making to my 650R have requested I post the final results and pics online. Apologies for taking so long to get it done, also for being long-winded, but the mods were extensive. See photos in "My Garage".

In prep for rewinding my stator I decided I wanted to mod my XR650R's electrical system and make it a bit more robust and easier to trouble shoot.

To start I brought the single output of the regulator/rectifier into a master relay, controlled by a switch just beneath my ignition switch. (Yeah, I could have gone through the ignition switch but I would not have been able to kill all lights independent of the ignition...).

The output of the main relay then feeds a 6-fuse panel. This allows individually fused power for the headlight, turn signals/brake light, 109dB horn, digital LED tach, LED voltmeter and one spare. The spare will be wired to my Garmin GPS V as soon as I get another RAM mount and hard-wired power cable. All connections were made via 2-, 4-, and 9-pin Hitachi-type modular connectors (all this from Electrical Connection) and all connector housings were sprayed with DuPont Teflon/Silicone sealer to help prevent corrosion of the brass pins.

After rewinding my stator I upgraded the lighting. This invovled replacing the E-Line/UFO plastic lens (#7351 incandescent bulb) with a Baja Designs glass lens (H4 bulb). This required significant mods to the UFO Oregon headlight assembly as the BD lens was more square-ish and used a different lens mounting arrangement. [The UFO-Oregon headlight is sweet-looking, but if I had it to do over, I would go with the BD headlight/number plate assembly from the git-go and get H4 capability without all this headache. Live and learn.]

Additionally, as the BD H4 lens is glass it is noticably heavier than the UFO plastic lens. Add-in the weight of the small sealed lead-acid battery, fuse panel, master power relay, etc, that I had already installed and the complete headlight/number plate assembly is now putting serious strain on the existing rubber mounting straps.

So I fabricated a lower mounting bar out of 1-1/16th square aluminum tubing and 1-1/8th aluminum bar, onto which I bolted two nylon pegs (see "My Garage" photos). Two holes were drilled in the bottom of the headlight/number plate assembly to match up with these nylon mounting points, thereby replacing the bottom rubber straps with a far more secure means of carrying the new weight.

To keep all this sorted out and avoid any "my-memory-is-going" problems, I did a full PowerPoint update of the factory wiring schematic (see jpeg image).

Yeah, it was a massive pain to figure out how to get eveything mounted (neatly) in the headlight assembly. But now its done and I am very happy with it. I now have about 350-400 miles on this new setup and have had zero problems so far.

Was this entire project overkill? Yeah, probably. But that's the way I generally do things. Do it right. Do it once.

Ride safe, all.

Nice work IC, REAL NICE !! I'm surprised no one commented yet ??

Umm, is your house wired that way too ? :devil:

Can anyone guess what those 12 white dots do on the upper L of his "dash" ?

Looks sweet........ :devil:

I must be doing something wrong-- I can't see the photos in your garage.

The twelve white dots are for the tach. If you look at his wiring diagram you will see it listed in the top right of his diagram. Have fun, Tony

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