What woods gearing for YZ250?

I just got an 05 YZ250 to use for woods ridng. What gearing should I use for the singletrack/woods? It currently has a 52 tooth rear and stock front.



I run a 14/50 on mine with a 9oz FWW I run hare scrambles and woods works awesome down low in second gear coming out of rutted corners..

I went to a 14/49 on mine and like it better than the 50 or 51 tooth combos. Seems like it has less wheel spin. Also on fast straights it seems easier to let it stretch its legs with less shifting.

I went up one on the front, which works great for the trails, and real good on the hill climbs, stick it in first and go, no banging second.

I dropped one in front, stock in the rear. What a hoot!! I ride between 7000 to 11,000ft in very tight stuff. It makes it feel like my previous 300MXC. I do a lot of short shifting and there is some massive 2 stroke torque with this setup.

The extra shifting doesn't bother me after riding 125's most of the time. I also run a Q with everythingelse on the motor stock. I own a 11oz flywheel, but haven't been running it lately.

I don't miss the top speed much because I'm always in the tight stuff. I go back to stock or taller in the wide open desert during the winter months when we hit Moab and AZ.

I run 14/52 on my '06 because I run some trails and also some MX tracks; and that ended up being a good compromise for me.

No flywheel weight or the like either.

isn't 14/52 stock on the 05 and 06?

Try a 15/50, will not spin so much when covering slippery ground and rocky areas. I have been using this ratio for years and have found it to be the most effective. A 14/50 tends to want to lift the front end to much cuasing the bike to be come a bit of a hand full when you actually want to ease on the power.



what type of woods? here in sw Alberta we ride a lot of 1-2nd gear slow tecjnical riding, i only get into 4th or 5th a few times throughout a day so dropping the front sprocket works well for me. if i race hare scrambles i will go back to stock 14/50. if it gets really slippery and i want no wheel spin i just click it up a gear or two and bog it like Murray. i too had a 300 mxc and find the yz has more mid to top power, but the 300 has a huge flywheel and different ignition paths, love the bottom end!

13/52 cuz the trails here are tight. I even use that on the track.

isn't 14/52 stock on the 05 and 06?

No, 14/50 is stock. (at least on my '06 and another I know of...)

14/50 was stock on my 06. I like the 14/52 as well. It gives a nice low first for the slow going.

New twist. I like running the 120/90x19 rear cause I ride trails, but this is like gearing higher. In the past I've gone one tooth smaller in front to a 13, but does anyone have any thought or recommendations for this setup?? I rode today for the first time with the larger rear tire and stock gearing and could totally tell it's geared way to high for tight singletrack!!

the 18" and 19" are the same size tire on the perimeter, its the inside rim dimension thats different. most 18's for offroad have large sidewalls, which gives the outside perimeter the same measurment (or very close). the biggest difference i have noticed is sidehilling and root/stone deflection is less on an 18" because you can run less pressure, especially on a 6 ply tire. no pinch flats and not as much bounce.

13/50 for tight stuff with ugly technical uphills. I swap between 13T, 14T, & 15T c/s sprockets depending on where I'll be riding that day. I've found that swapping between rear sprockets is more expensive, more work, and affects chain length more than swapping between c/s sprockets.

I have used that 120 series rear tire. It is similar to using a flywheel weight in that its lots heavier than the normal sized tire, assuming were talking about Dunlops. I did not espectally care for it and it is now sitting in the corner of my garage.

Maybe it was too much with the flywheel added into the mix.

the 18" and 19" are the same size tire on the perimeter, its the inside rim dimension thats different. .

The stock tire size on the YZ250 2T is a 110/90/19, so a 120/90/19 is actually a taller tire and would make the gearing slightly taller. I have the same size on my bike and it didn't occur to me the effect this was going to have in tight, technical situations when a steep uphill is the only way out. I have the 11oz FWW, but noticed immediately that while added diameter width and weight does improve traction, it makes the bike a bit more sluggish when crawling along.

I have heard a lot of lighter guys running 14:51, but I am heavier and think I am going to try the 15:50 route as a quick and cheap gearing test.

I run a 13/48 with 8oz fww. As you can see, different people like different setups.

I've been running 15/50.

I have been using this in EXTREMELY technical (slippery and hilly) trails... we generally cover about 5 miles in 4 hours. Absolutely love this gearing, first gear is very versatile on hills, even when traversing slick clay. Second and third are great too when the singletrack opens up a bit. I find the taller gearing mellows the bike nicely in the really tricky stuff.

I also use this gearing on fast sandy desert style riding. Even in the sandy singletrack, the tall gearing is great. Swapping between second and third makes ST riding a breeze. And then there's the top speed for the open sections.

I prefer to use a little more clutch on my bike, whilst carrying a higher gear.


Like others here have said, it's all personal preference.

I got a good deal on a 51 tooth Ironman sprocket, so that decided my rear for me. Up front I swap between a 13 and 15, although the 15 tooth is on 98% of the time. For almost all single track its perfectly fine. The only time I put on the 13T is when heading for a hike-a-bike ride, where I spend more time dragging my bike out from between boulders than I do riding it. I do have a Rekluse, which I think helps me get away with the taller gearing.

Going from a 110/90/19 to a 120/90/19 is mathmatically a 3.57% increase in hieght (and rolling circumference). That means if you run 14/50 normally, you'd want to change to a 14/51 to compensate.

Now, tires rarely ever fall right on the calculated height, so you need to look at manufacture specs. Also, Dunlop is offering some tires in 120/80/19 profile now. But how picky do you need to be? Worrying about that stuff too much will drive you crazy, because even as the tire wears you should be changing sprockets to compensate for the shorter height and cicumference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now