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Stupid-Rookie's Oil Change tutorial


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G'day everyone,

I could never find an oil change thread with enough detail in it for a beginner. So I thought I'd make my own.

I plan on documenting any future servicing completed in a similar manner.

Let us begin:

1. To start with assemble the tools for the job.

You want the following

  • Oil pan - large
  • 10mm Socket or spanner
  • 12mm Socket
  • 14mm Socket or spanner
  • Extension for sockets
  • Ratchet handle
  • 2 Liters of oil
  • New oil filter
  • Paper towel and/or rags
  • Disposable gloves - personal preference
  • Degreaser

N.B The Frame drain plug (12mm socket) is very hard to get to, I managed to use a spanner as a test, but it is much easier with a socket and extension bar.

2. The manual indicates that the oil filler should be unscrewed. I unscrewed it, but left it in place to avoid anything falling in.

BikeMaintanence013-1.jpg

3. Now locate the Frame oil plug as depicted below.

BikeMaintanence070-1.jpg

Place your oil pan underneath this bolt. Using a 12mm implement of your choice, socket/spanner, undo the plug and be prepared for the torrent of oil that will flow as so:

BikeMaintanence014-1.jpg

4. Once the flow stops, position the oil pan so it will catch oil from the Frame plug and also the Crankcase plug shown here

BikeMaintanence068-1.jpg

using a 14mm socket/spanner, undo the plug and once again be prepared for the oil to piss out.

BikeMaintanence020-1.jpg

An extra step here is to balance the bike in the upright position

BikeMaintanence019-1.jpg

to aid in the complete emptying of the Crankcase.

5. Now that the bulk of the oil has drained locate the Oil filter cover. Undo the three bolt heads, oil will again drain out.

BikeMaintanence022-1.jpg

6. Take the Oil filter cover off taking care to remove the large "O" ring from the mating surface

BikeMaintanence023-1.jpg

if it's not there check the underside of the Oil filter cover. If it is not there you're on your own.

7. Take a mental note as to which way the filter is facing, it should look like this now and also after replacing it.

8. Remove the old filter, see the small "O" ring at the back?

BikeMaintanence030-1.jpg

We need that, you can leave it there or take it out and replace it when reassembling. We also want to get rid of that old excess oil, wipe it up with something.

9. Take the new oil filter out of it's packet it should look like this

BikeMaintanence037-1.jpg

make sure there are no tears or other imperfections

10. With the area clean of old oil refit the small "O" ring

BikeMaintanence040-1.jpg

then place the new oil filter in as corresponds with your mental note, or this picture

BikeMaintanence041-1.jpg

11. Now grab the large "O" ring and refit it to the underside of the Oil filter cover

BikeMaintanence042-1.jpg

12. Refit the Oil filter cover, observing the arrow stamped on it's surface to point upwards, thusly

BikeMaintanence043-1.jpg

13. Refit the Frame oil plug

BikeMaintanence048-1.jpg

14. Refit the Crankcase oil plug

15. Grab your funnel, any crap stuck on the inside will end up in your engine so make sure you clean it.

BikeMaintanence053-1.jpg

16. Place the funnel in the oil filler hole, and pour in 1.8L of your choice of oil.

BikeMaintanence058-1.jpg

To measure out 1.8 Litres I find it easiest to keep an eye on these side indicators and wait until it looks like this, indicating there is 200ml left in the bottle.

BikeMaintanence061-1.jpg

17. Tighten up the oil filler cap

BikeMaintanence064-1.jpg

Continued...

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18. Give any surface where oil has dripped a blast with degreaser

BikeMaintanence071-1.jpg

19. Double check the tightness of all fasteners you have touched today, being especially aware of any oil leaks

20. Fire it up and idle for 3 minutes or so

BikeMaintanence066-1.jpg

Hope this helps, I will be revising this as I've done it all up pretty rough.

More to follow

Stupid-Rookie

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Thanks Mate,

I'm aiming for Lego instruction clarity/simplicity. What I intend on doing is searching out the Owner's manual, Workshop manual, Information from here and then distilling it, and then photographing myself doing it for the first time.

I hope that by approaching these things for the first time I'll be able to best describe it visually for other newbies.

Next on the agenda will be:

  1. The mysterious oil screen of death
  2. Cleaning the spark arrestor
  3. Adjusting the chain
  4. Changing front and rear tyres
  5. Dialling in the suspension
  6. Bleeding the brakes
  7. Flushing the coolant
  8. anything else I need to do to my bike

I find by documenting it for someone else it helps me to understand it more, and to be more thorough. Like they say, the best way to learn is to teach.

Stupid-Rookie

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what about the in frame screen or whatever?

BikeMaintanence070-1.jpg

The frame oil screen is just to the left of the frame drain plug. You need to take off the hose leading to it and use a socket to get it out. I like new crush washers here, but you can re-use the originals.

Great write up Rookie but you forgot the most important step, taking off the skid plate.:devil:

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Heh,

You're right, I've got an aftermarket bashplate and I didn't want to confuse anyone.

Stupid-Rookie

P.S thanks for stealing my thunder on the Oil Filter Screen :devil:

Sorry, great write up and pictures. I could never get pictures of the drain plugs to come out that well, there's no room.

Why would you take off the skid plate? I've changed my oil 10 times on my 2006 S and never needed to do that. What model do you have?

I have an 'S' also. You are correct the stock skid plate doesn't need come off. Everyone always says my bike is too clean. I live in near squalor, but my bike is almost spotless. I have an e-line on mine, although I guess that would not need to come off either.

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Great write-up! You beat me to it. I've been meaning to do a how-to with pictures on the oil change. Kills me when guys say they're taking their bike to the dealer to have this done. Once again, great job! :devil:

By the way, torque specs for the drain bolts are 15 lb-ft on the crankcase, 13 lb-ft on the frame.

Also, I usually just drain the frame by removing the other bolt in your pic:

BikeMaintanence070-1.jpg

Easier to get to, and it accomplishes the same thing.

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Stupid-Rookie needs case-savers or the next write-up will be how to JB weld the side case when infact the next write-up should be how to install a big-bore with a stroker crank and time the cams to give the maximum bottom end torque:thumbsup:Exellent write-up by the way

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great detailed report. just what I need. Now, how about that screen. I tried to remove it but felt like I was gonna destroy the rubber hose just trying to pry it off. So I gave up. Would love to see a detailed how to on removing the cleaning the screen. Perhaps that would give me the courage to try again. Thanks again--Carl

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Now, how about that screen. I tried to remove it but felt like I was gonna destroy the rubber hose just trying to pry it off. So I gave up. Would love to see a detailed how to on removing the cleaning the screen. Perhaps that would give me the courage to try again. Thanks again--Carl

I had the same problem with the hose so I removed the 14mm bolt at the other end of the rubber hose and took the whole line off. (See photo from step #3)

NOTE: My screen was 1/2 covered with a grey silicone like substance that looked like coffee grounds. Enough of the screen was covered that I am sure it impeeded the flow of oil. The screen us easy to get to, make sure you clean it!

Anyone know what that grey stuff is? Gasket material? :devil:

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