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Zomby woof, November 11, 2006 in DRZ 125/125L/250
pm sent on cam.
Hotcam is still forsale if anybody is need of it.Not sure what happened with hackmunch?
lets not let this thread die off...
FYI, I submitted a suggestion to the forum that this be made a sticky.
A lot of people have these bikes, and while looking for a little more power, would otherwise never think about changing the cam.
These things are so grossly under cammed its not funny.
Secondly, I get a lot of PM's asking for specifics.
I think I covered the basics, (and I think) a lot of the specific stuff. Most of the answers are already here.
While I really don't mind answering the questions, I think it would be better if it were stickied, got a little more attention (more questions, and answers), and were easily found by the newbies that have no idea its here.
If you agree, and think it should be stickied, please contact the admins, or mods.
I have, and got no response.
I agree! Awesome thread. Also should sticky the one by Dr_DRZ https://thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305499&highlight=rm100 That is one of the best threads on the forum and covers almost all the apects of front and rear frame conversion.
well i went with a custom megacycle cam, the hot cam is just way to tame for what i am building. does anyone know if crower is still around? when i was building race pitbike engines i used to use a cam of theres called the #18 grind, it had 246 degree of duration and good lift it was just killer on the track.
what cam did you get from megacycle ? I think I am going with the lt230 cam that zomby recommended.
i went with the 330x2 megacycle cam, also 190cckit, larger valves and pvl ignition.
Should have my 330 cam any day! Going in an ice bike that runs with some VERY fast XR100's. The guys we run with are national class flat track racers, but still a bunch of fat drunk guys on kids bikes! Almost ice time!!!!
let me know how it works frank at engines only told me it was not a good cam to much duration.
236 degree is no where near to much duration, maybe for the stock ignition but not for the pvl and with larger valves and 28mm carb it should be easy to turn some high rpm numbers. we have been running cams with 246+ duration in our pitbike race engines and have had no problems making serious hp.
Sorry, I didn't get the 330. It just came today it's the 393-00!!
Installed the 393-00. Have not ridden it yet, but boy does it sound sick! Very fast revving but lost the bottom end. Who cares this is a race bike! Also not dialed in yet, I will let you know after I get a chance to ride it.
that cam has the same duration as the 330x2 cam but about .9mm more lift. did you swap out your valve springs? so the quadsport 230 cams fit huh, man they have some badas$ webcams for those engines hmmmm new idea.
No, I used the stock valve springs. I will get a chance to ride sat. or sun. By just running it in the shop, it sounds insane, very quick revving. This is my girlfriends bike in the summer and my ice bike in the winter. When she heard it fire up with the new cam she said she would never ride it again. I guess the Hotcam will go back in for summers. Just looking at the reground stock cam and the Hotcam side by side, the regrind looks like art and the Hotcam like the booger I picked on the way to work today!
Man Webcams Has A Cam For The Quadsport230 That Has 11mm Of Lift And It Fits The Klx/drz 125. That With The 190 Kit Has To Make Some Big Hp.
With that much lift you might have some clearance issues, but if you are willing to try it please keep us informed.
I was looking a the head and 11.1 wiseco piston for clearance for my decompression lever and it looks like there is a lot of room.
Please ride the bike I need to know what cam to get..
I rode it today, wow. This thing rips now. You will not be sorry if you get the 393-00. I think the clearance that you need to worry about is between the keepers and valve seal also check for coil bind.
does it seem to rev higher and make more topend power?
Revs much higher, and more power every where except just off idle. It now wants to either spin the tire or lift the front wheel.
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