Floating the ground

I found the need to switch the AC circuit over to DC on my WR to handle my HIDs, grip heaters, and stock lights. I got a new regulator\rectifier and also learned

that to complete switch to full DC, I would have to 'float the ground'.

I had no idea what that meant and wasn't getting fast tech support so I searched ThumperTalk databases to find out what it meant. What I found were

several instances where people were asking the same question, but without any experienced responses (Well, there was one response where the individual knew

how to help, but only offered a phone number instead of instructions).

The regulator\rectifier is a TrailTech item and I couldn't find any .pdfs of real help from their site, but I did find a WR250\450 .pdf at Baja Designs. It was very

helpful and was an exact match for what I found in the inside of my motor.

I am including some pics of what you would encounter should you need to make this conversion to your bike as well. the devil is in the details, so I left these

pics in original size (sorry dial-up folks!)

1. Cover removed, stator still bolted in. We're going after the wire end that is in the clip with the brass tab extending from it to the Allen bolt:

stock.jpg?t=1163958284

2. Removing the plastic retaining clip (which gets replaced once wiring is completed):

clip.jpg?t=1163958458

3. Metal clips ground off with cut-off wheel on a Dremel. The magnet wire has been bent up from the slot and is located at 10o'clock from the screwdriver tip:

cut_02.jpg?t=1163958773

4. Wider shot of stator and rotor:

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5. Crimp connector has been put on the freshly scraped magnet wire and yellow wire crimped and soldered into the connector. I slid a piece of heat shrink

tubing on before joining the wires and shrunk it into place before bending the wire down and threading the wire to the back of the stator in its original location

(sometimes I hate autofocus...makes me lazy and I don't pay attention to the focal point):

floated_closeup.jpg?t=1163958882

6. Stator mounted back into the cover and ready to be reassembled:

floated_installed.jpg?t=1163959109

From there, I was able to follow the steps TrailTech (finally) got me to install and connect their regulator\rectifier. It includes switching the headlight\taillight

power lead and CDI power lead to the brown wire on the main switch so that when you are done riding and turn off your switch, you don't run any greater risk

(than before) of draining your battery. AND, if you stall your bike on a nasty night-time hillclimb (like I've done), your lights won't go out and you can see to get

yourself turned around or whatever!:p

I plan to switch the power lead for my grip heaters to the brown wire on the main switch also...one less thing to worry about.:cheers:

Hope this can be helpful to you, now or in the future.

BTW, I am still running my stock exhaust cam with the ground decompression nipple in the YZ position and loving it...around 2500 miles on the motor and re-shimmed

the valves 200 miles ago. No worries grinding your own nipples boys.

Why are you adding another rectifier to the system when there is one already there?

On My 03 WR I added a light switch that was powered from the brown wire of the main on/off switch which powered the headlight and tail/brake light. The yellow wire from the magneto to the rectifier is still attached to the rectifier but now doesn't power the headlight and taillight directly.

By floating the ground wire are you taking that set of magneto windings out of generating power? Or are you diverting more power capacity to the brown wire side of the circuit somehow?

I would like to know more about what this change does and where exactly does the additional rectifier hook up to.

Bob

Why are you adding another rectifier to the system when there is one already there?

By floating the ground wire are you taking that set of magneto windings out of generating power? Or are you diverting more power capacity to the brown wire side of the circuit somehow?

Bob

I replaced the stock reg\rec with a unit from TrailTech. Both coils are still generating power. Now everything on the bike is DC...bye bye AC.

Ok. I did some more digging and now I know the rest of the story. By re-locating the yellow wire to this now floating ground wire, you gain additional power to run the higher wattage stuff. But you also have to replace the stock rectifier with a larger wattage rectifier for all of this to work.

Thanks for the help.

Standard setup with AC regulator allows full power.

Some equipment needs DC power.

Floating the ground allows full wave rectification = (Full power).

You can only get single wave rectification with one end of the stator grounded = (Half power).

Standard setup with AC regulator allows full power.

Some equipment needs DC power.

Floating the ground allows full wave rectification = (Full power).

You can only get single wave rectification with one end of the stator grounded = (Half power).

I'm still having trouble understanding all this ......

Why even "float the ground"?

Anyone have this on a schematic drawing?

(to better understand and see what's happening here)

Why not have a big full wave rectifier

convert the stock AC pwr to DC ?

These photos are great btw .....

and this trailtech voltage regulator, how's it connected?

and where is it connected

where is it installed?

my 03'WR has the regulator down on the right side down tube

but I see on later models it's up on the left side of the steering neck.

anyone move their regulator up to the steering neck?

it looks like much better cooling there vs next to the exhaust pipe!

Why even "float the ground"?

By adding HIDs, grip heaters, and another power out (for a GPS unit), I exceeded the system's ability to power the items and charge itself.

Anyone have this on a schematic drawing?

(to better understand and see what's happening here)

Wiring_TrailTech.jpg

Why not have a big full wave rectifier

convert the stock AC pwr to DC ?

The Trail tech regulator\rectifier I bought was available from a friend. I don't know if they make what you are asking about.

and this trailtech voltage regulator, how's it connected? and where is it connected and where is it installed?

The regulator attaches to the bike in the exact same location as the stock unit and connects to the wiring with bullet connectors.

FlEYEingDubyah,

I just wanted to thank you for this post it is alot more helpful than the directions from Baja Designs. Your directions and pics made floating the ground on my stator easy and sucessful. To the rest, thanks for explaning why we're doing the mod and what it does. Again thanks.

..... and now I've got my head wrapped around why and how and will be making this mod soon myself. this was a very helpful thread, and the pics and post by FlEYEingDubyah were great! thanks again FlEYEingDubyah for picking up where the rest of us started to stumble.

FlEYEingDubyah,

I just wanted to thank you for this post it is alot more helpful than the directions from Baja Designs. Your directions and pics made floating the ground on my stator easy and sucessful. To the rest, thanks for explaning why we're doing the mod and what it does. Again thanks.

..... and now I've got my head wrapped around why and how and will be making this mod soon myself. this was a very helpful thread, and the pics and post by FlEYEingDubyah were great! thanks again FlEYEingDubyah for picking up where the rest of us started to stumble.

WooHoo!:devil:

I am very glad to hear that the information was helpful. :thumbsup:

It's been really nice on a night ride, to still have lights on when I stall the bike climbing steep single-track in the snow or wet. I can still see to get my bike safely turned around and headed back down for a second attempt.

I may have mentioned it before, but it's worth saying again - the grips and stock headlight are now wired into the main switch so that if I forget they are on, but still turn of the main switch, they will be turned off and preserve my battery.

One last thing (purely gloating) - We took a ride Saturday in the Coast Range here in Oregon

sweet-ride_121606.jpg

and it was very nice to have steaming handgrips and gloves while my SMOKER friends were whining about their phalanges. I bought Dual-Star (or Sym-Tec) brand with the differential heating elements (thereby eliminating the need to wrap the clutch side with electrical tape). I could have ridden another 30 miles...but not my pals.

Now for a P.S. You should notice a trials tire on the back of my WR. I have ridden three rides (3 weeks) on it and the increase in traction is "Statistically significant".

No, I haven't done a study on it, but as a long-time skeptic and nay-sayer with regard to a trials tire over a knobby, I say this: "If you try one in wet and rocky conditions, ruts and roots too, you will not go back to a knobby." It even tracks through snow. Off-camber, downhill corners, on greasy clay - it goes straight across. We did side by side comparisons with a KTM 300XC with very good S-12s (around 100 miles on them), and my bike would stay up and not break loose, falling into the rut.

I should say that I plan to take it off for racing in the desert of Eastern WA and Central OR. While I don't think it would hurt me to use it in the desert (slope and traction is not a real factor), I don't think there will be a specific gain so I will use the faithful Maxxis Desert ITs front and rear.

FlEYEingDubyah , Big thanks for perfect advise how to do dc power to wr, thank you very much!

T

FlEYEingDubyah , Big thanks for perfect advise how to do dc power to wr, thank you very much!

T

You bet...BTW, I'm 50% Fin:ride:

Thanks :lol:

FlEYEingDubyah

Can i make few question:

1. After these changes, did you took power to the front light straight from the battery or did you use the original front light connector (H4)??

2. After these changes did you measure battery voltage when bike is running idle without lights and lights on??

Regards

T

:lol:

FlEYEingDubyah

Can i make few question:

1. After these changes, did you took power to the front light straight from the battery or did you use the original front light connector (H4)??

2. After these changes did you measure battery voltage when bike is running idle without lights and lights on??

Regards

T :lol:

Hi Turkka-

1. I continue to use the stock connector and light switch. Only get the power from the main switch wire so that if the main switch is off, so are the lights (and now grip heaters too).

2. Voltage was measured and was steady at 13.4V

FW:ride:

Thanks again FlEYEingDubyah !!!

:lol:

T

I have a question on this installation. I can not find the answer in exact example for what I am looking for.

I have attached a few pics to show what I mean.

I removed the stock regulator form my 06 WR250F. Now my instuctions state to remove the factory connectors and use the factory plug for installation. I have no problem except...

If my ground is not floated, do I attach the black wire to the factory harness or ground it at the regulator mounting post.

I have 4 wires from the stock regulator, Red, Yellow White and black. I have 5 wires from the BD regulator.

I am most confused on what to connect where.

2s1nb5g.jpg

169ho9y.jpg

2sbsnf9.jpg

2iqho38.jpg

I am just confused as to what "LOAD" is.

I see the blue is the NEG battery (-) and of course red is POS battery (+).

Black is the ground but is it to the factory harness* or the frame?

*Does the factory harness ground to the frame or just run to battery (-)?

Do I just leave the fused POS lead unattached or is it supposed to go somewhere?

'Load' is the OEM harness which connects you lights and other stuff.

Ideally, the Blue ground from the regulator will go the factory ground wire and also go directly to the battery.

To make full use of the regulator, you must float the ground on the stator. You will also have to re-wie the stock headlight as it was previously powered by the AC side of the sdtator and by floating the ground, you have combined both sides of the stator to make DC.

A few notes about the original posters job. Great pictures but a few potential issues. First, the small part of the clip that was dremeled should be removed as it can easily fall out and travel about inside the engine. Secondly, shrink wrap is Ok but a more substantial insulator that is unaffected by heat and vibration should be used, typically a section of Kevlar or Nomex insulator weave.

Yeah, I got the stator and the baja kit on. I was just worried about the 'extra' wire that is fused from the BD regulator.

Lights, blinkers, brake, horn, high/low all work with the bike off. I am guessing it is straight on the battery so it should not be much different since wiring is running off the bat posts.

I guess I need to look into the fused load hot side into the DS kit. That one I am guessing is off the hot behind the headlight but I am not sure if it is fused. I believe so after the ignition switch but had been back and forth into this due to other things.

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