I found the need to switch the AC circuit over to DC on my WR to handle my HIDs, grip heaters, and stock lights. I got a new regulator\rectifier and also learned that to complete switch to full DC, I would have to 'float the ground'. I had no idea what that meant and wasn't getting fast tech support so I searched ThumperTalk databases to find out what it meant. What I found were several instances where people were asking the same question, but without any experienced responses (Well, there was one response where the individual knew how to help, but only offered a phone number instead of instructions). The regulator\rectifier is a TrailTech item and I couldn't find any .pdfs of real help from their site, but I did find a WR250\450 .pdf at Baja Designs. It was very helpful and was an exact match for what I found in the inside of my motor. I am including some pics of what you would encounter should you need to make this conversion to your bike as well. the devil is in the details, so I left these pics in original size (sorry dial-up folks!) 1. Cover removed, stator still bolted in. We're going after the wire end that is in the clip with the brass tab extending from it to the Allen bolt: 2. Removing the plastic retaining clip (which gets replaced once wiring is completed): 3. Metal clips ground off with cut-off wheel on a Dremel. The magnet wire has been bent up from the slot and is located at 10o'clock from the screwdriver tip: 4. Wider shot of stator and rotor: 5. Crimp connector has been put on the freshly scraped magnet wire and yellow wire crimped and soldered into the connector. I slid a piece of heat shrink tubing on before joining the wires and shrunk it into place before bending the wire down and threading the wire to the back of the stator in its original location (sometimes I hate autofocus...makes me lazy and I don't pay attention to the focal point): 6. Stator mounted back into the cover and ready to be reassembled: From there, I was able to follow the steps TrailTech (finally) got me to install and connect their regulator\rectifier. It includes switching the headlight\taillight power lead and CDI power lead to the brown wire on the main switch so that when you are done riding and turn off your switch, you don't run any greater risk (than before) of draining your battery. AND, if you stall your bike on a nasty night-time hillclimb (like I've done), your lights won't go out and you can see to get yourself turned around or whatever! I plan to switch the power lead for my grip heaters to the brown wire on the main switch also...one less thing to worry about. Hope this can be helpful to you, now or in the future. BTW, I am still running my stock exhaust cam with the ground decompression nipple in the YZ position and loving it...around 2500 miles on the motor and re-shimmed the valves 200 miles ago. No worries grinding your own nipples boys.