I know most of us run Mobile 1 15-50. I don't see a lot of talk about AMSOIL here. There were a couple mentions in the archives. I'm wondering if anyone is using the AMSOIL synthetic 4 stroke motorcycle specific motor oil and if there is any advantage/disadvantage of it vs M1. The amsoil does mention wet clutch compatiblity.

I know this is kind of an old subject, but I am seeing lots of promo for AMS lately.

Thanks Much

My experience with AMSOIL is exceptional! I have used it since the early 80's. I currently use it in all my bikes. 06 YZ 250, 06YZ450F, Harley and all the kids bikes as well. It is a far superior product to Mobil, Maxima, Motul, the list goes on. You will not be disappointed with the performance. Let us know how it turns out.

My roomate is a Rep. for em so he gave me some pre-mix oil for my 300. Been using it for 3 years with no probs. Of course that has nothing to do with the info you want.......

I've used both Amsoil and Motul with great results. I never have tried Moblil but lots of guys swear by it.

Amsoil has a series of convincing studies on their website testifying to their full-synthetic's abilities to reduce friction and resist thermal breakdown. Even if the information they publish is selective, they're at least making a case. All the other brands say "we're the best ever" without explaining why. I hate being advertised to like an idiot. Many oil companies are just contributing to the disease that is consumer ignorance. I want to make an informed choice, so my bikes get nothing but Amsoil.

Any opinions on Yamalube 10W-50 semi-synthetic? That's what I've been using in my WR426. Is it one of the better oils?

just got my bike back from the shop valves still in spec 8000 miles and still no need for shims amzoil only

Once you try Amsoil nothing else can compare!

why do the manufacturers make thier own brand of oil???

Would using Yamalube for yamahas, or Hondabrite for hondas, be better for your machine or is it just for them to make money???

I have noticed that my 96 XR 250's clutch is slipping, and although it is undoubtedly from excessive wear and ORIGIONAL, could a certain brand of oil cause slippage?

I know that certain types of clutches require different oils to prevent wear and to operate at full potential.

Do Yamahas have clutches that run best with a specific oil, (any manufacturer for that matter), if so what is the deal?

The fact that almost all of the new motorcycles (that aren't 2 strokes) use the same oil to lubricate the transmission, and also the top end, seems to be very poor in design. It would be much easier to manufacture oil for the engines and easier to select the brand you want and more of them would be more successful.

I use the Mobil 1 but where is a good place to buy Amsoil?

I've always run Redline synthetic in my road race and sport bikes with great results. My 2000 R6 has over 66,000 miles and it runs as strong as ever with the original clutch. I've started using it in my 2005 WR450, but I've only got about 400 miles on it so far. I plan to use it in my supermoto this year as well.


For the past year I have been running an oil called Royal Purple Max-Cycle. The results have been amazing with operating temperture of the bike in tight single track. I dont know if the effects on the wear of the engine is any better than the oil I ran before, but reduced temperature would point toward less friction. Just my 2 cents

ive been runing amsoil in all my bikes its great oil and has alot of cleaning agents its good oil and reasonably priced

I will be using Amsoil in my WR 450. Why? All the info they have published led me to change to Amsoil in my 2005 Grand Cherokee 4x4. I bought it new. I have changed the oil and filter every 4 thousand miles. It NEVER averaged over 19 MPG, ever. (At this point I was driving it to work on a 100 mile round trip daily commute 4 days a week.)

After 100,000 miles I switched it over to Amsoil. The very next day it went to a 21 MPG average and has been there ever since! I change the oil and filter in it now every 7,500 miles. I plan to switch the entire drive-train to Amsoil and see what that does. Extra 2 miles per gallon over a year more than pays for the extra expense of the oil. It has over 134,000 miles on it now and still going strong!

Changing the oil in the WR twice a month is only $20. Its worth the piece of mind to me. $250 a year plus filters is cheap insurance no matter who you are!! :cool:

Anyone run Motul 5100? Always ran this in my street bikes with great results.

Is it true that synthetic oil removes far less heat than regular oil? I have heard of 20 - 40 centigrade differences.

If the oil is cooler it did not remove as much heat as oil that is hotter.

had a friend who switched over to royal purple one day from mobile 1 , for some strange reason the thing smoked like crazy (little ricer honda) swapped back to mobil , no problem .

personally in my two-stroke i only run opti-2 , cost me a wiked amount of money . actually had it cold seize on me doing about 160 (wieseco's fault , and my ignroence to there pistons at the time ) two seconds later it was running again , i think its because of the opti personally that it ran like a top right afterwards .

for the wr im probably going to go with amsoil , i don't know what opti-4 is like but im looking into it . right now im running bel-ray , have had no problems what so ever . also possibly red-line .

why do the manufacturers make thier own brand of oil???
They don't. They buy it with their own labels from the people who actually make it. Honda HP4 is a Torco product
I use the Mobil 1 but where is a good place to buy Amsoil? Sign up as a preferred customer if you use more than 10 quarts a year. (more or less) Either way, you can have a case delivered to you. At two cases per year, my net cost is about $7.50/qt.
Is it true that synthetic oil removes far less heat than regular oil?
No, it's not.

Synthetic oil is still fairly widely misunderstood. At the most basic level, there is very little difference between a high grade paraffin petroleum oil and a PAO synthetic except the fact that since the synthetic is made from scratch, it is completely free of any sort of impurities. Of course, because it is a manufactured product, the producer has a higher degree of control over the properties of the base oil, but the truth is that the unmodified base oil of a good synthetic is only marginally better as a basic lubricant than the best petroleum bases are. It is also not slipperier, and will not keep a new engine's ring from seating, or cause clutches to slip.

The thing that creates the differences between synthetics and petroleum oils, and just one oil compared to another, is the additive package, for the most part. Synthetics do have certain built in advantages, but to say that they are all better than all petroleum based motorcycle oils is a vast over-generalization.


Thank you...well put. :busted::worthy::ride:

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