Why would/wouldn't I want to use an O-ring chain on my 06?

I'm getting different messages from people on why I should/shouldn't put a Regina ORN6 on my 06 YZ450F as Grayracer had recommended. I don't race it, just ride the varied terrain in Ocotillo on the bike, but want my stock sprockets to last and not have to adjust it every time I ride, as it seems I will have to do with the stock chain. What are the pros and cons of the O-ringer for my riding situation, and should I just stick to a non-O-ringer? I'm willing to pay the extra dough if it's worth it for longevity and strength, but not as much as an X-ring. Somewhere between $40 and $75 is the range I'd like to spend. :cheers:

I always used O ring chains as they do last longer, but changed to split link chains now so I can take them on and off to clean etc etc.....

I've been very pleased with the DID ERT chain's durability. Also, I'm using Ironman sprokets which seem to be bullit proof

I always use an O-ring chain. From my experience they last 3 times as long and so do the sprockets. They only down side to a ring chain is they rob some horsepower, but with a 450 I doubt you will notice.

I agree with 642mx - the first thing I did with my 07 was pull off the taffy chain and put on an RK 0-ring. Only one small chain adjustment after 5 rides.

No percieved power loss (that I can feel). This thing has so much torque compared to my old cr250 it feels like a tractor on steriods.

I have run x ring chains on my last 3 bikes since hearing everyone rave about them here. Going over 50 hrs easily with no chain adjustment is amazing. Good chains and Ironman sprockets are a good investment.

I have had good results and bad results in races using o ring chains. None of my bad results were due to having horsepower taken away by an o ring chain. I am sure of that.

Why would you not run an O-ring chain? Let me guess, "they rob horsepower", right? Bovine Scatology.

Think about it. It's supposed to be the drag of the O-rings on the plates that causes the problem, right? At any given moment, how many are moving against the plates? Eight is the answer. One pair at each place that the chain is bending onto or off of a sprocket. At the front, the chain pivots only 15 degrees or less. At the rear, it's a fraction of that. No one I've seen had produced a dyno chart conclusively demonstrating a measurable power loss using an O-ring chain.

Or, was it weight? The ORN6 is 6 ounces heavier than it's non-sealed counterpart.

The Regina seems to roll freer on the stand than other sealed chains do, so if you're still worried about it, there's another reason. And the ORN6 uses a standard clip type master link, although it's a press fit for better strength.

One major "Don't" is to pressure wash the chain at close range at an angle that would force water and dirt past the rings and into the chain rollers. That will kill one in short order.

People also make the mistake of not lubing the chain because the chain is sealed, and therefore, the lube you apply can't get into it. That's true, but the outer rollers and the sprockets still need to be lubed, and the lube on the exposed surfaces of the rings protects them and lubes them.

My maintenance routine is this: Lube the chain with Maxima Synthetic Chain Guard (low tack, stays put, not a wax) at least 8 hours before I use it, wash the bike, chain included, with Simple Green and a garden hose sprayer, allow it to dry, and lube it again. That's it. The chain stays on until it dies, however long that takes.

In my experience, the Regina is cheaper, rolls freer, and lasts longer than any other chain mentioned here so far, but you can choose for yourself. The only one I would say you should avoid is the Primary Drive chains. They are heavy, and also extraordinarily bulky.

The stock chain is a rubber band. The Regina ORN6 is a great chain, I use one and it just doesn't stretch...as a matter of fact, the only time I ever adjust it is when I change out the rear tire.

There is more resistance to an o-ring chain versus a non-o-ring chain but with a 450 you'll never know the difference. Wouldn't want to use one on a 125 though.

Quality parts are almost always cheaper in the long run.

Chains are a matter of personal choice in my opinion...I suggest a quality chain to replace the oem chain before any use. For MX I prefer non oring - for weight difference and less chain drag. My DIDERT2 with Ironman sprockets work very well and have lasted about as long as any oring chain set up on any of my woods bikes. Chain care/maint is critical as is the type of lube you use. The more tacky...the more trash absorbed. I only use the newer clean chain lubes by BelRay and Silkolene. Riding in mud will kill any chain/sprockets over time loosen the chain slightly for riding in these conditions as mud tightens chain slack.

I have tried both the DID X-Ring and the DID ERT2, I prefer the ERT2 myself. I would recommend trying both...first time around one then the other next time. I "usually" keep my bikes for a couple of years so I have time to try different things.

Thanks for all the input. I'm going to try the Regina since I can get it for about $70. Grayracer, do I need any special tools to press fit the link, or will a c-clamp do it? And once it is on, it won't be coming off without replacing that link, correct? Not that I want to, in fact, I want to not remove it and not worry about it, that's why I'm getting it.

As for lubes, I have a number of things sitting around, but I was considering using the golden spectro synthetic since I already have it. Any pros/cons regarding the use of it? It seems to me that it is a wax type, not so much as the White Lightning lubes (which I use on my folding knive) but still slightly waxy once dried. I don't have a pressure washer so there's no worries about me destroying the chain by spraying it. If the Maxima is significantly better I'll go buy some, it's only $6 or so. Anyone?

A C clamp, used with a nut, or something else to provide clearance for the pin to come through the plate will work. That set up can be a little awkward, is all. Motion Pro makes a simple little master link press that doesn't cost much, but you can get along without it. Vise grips will do it, too. Regina also has a nice little press tool. I use the modified remains of a broken MP chain breaker.

Be sure you lube the master link pins and include the extra O-rings that come with it. Also be sure that the link is pressed together far enough for the clip to seat completely in the grooves of the pins.

I don't know about the Spectro lube. If it says "synthetic", it's probably not wax. Maxima Synthetic Chain Guard is definitely different that their own Chain Wax spray. The wax flakes off readily, and won't do much for the outside of the chain. SCG looks and feels a bit like wax once it sets up, in that it is "clean", and does not have a sticky, oily feel to it. But it stays on a lot better, and does not gather and hold very much dirt at all. If the Spectro is like that, it will probably do the job.

I put a DID XRing chain w/iron man sprockets on my 06 the night i brought it home. No problems at all... ~68hrs on the bike.

I sold my stock sprocket for, i think, 35 bucks or something close (i forget)...

I have heard or read of clearance problems in the chain guide area on the06-07 yamahas. I have used DID X RINGS in past on my previous hondas with great success but am concerned about the clearance issues. Don't have a problem with trying the REGINA ORING if that works best. Has anyone else heard of a clearance problem. Can say without a doubt that you can't go wrong with a x/oring if adjusting chains is not one of your favorite pastimes.:worthy:

I vote for a ring chain for sure. The best I've ever used was a DID ERV2. It was pricy but lasted extremely well. I'll also vote for Ironman sprockets. Excellent durability and almost as light as aluminum.

The chain clearance issue occurs at the inside of the frame just above the swing arm. It is caused, IMO, by alignment errors at the rear wheel. High grade sealed chains, like the Regina, are still narrow enough not to cause trouble here (mine makes only occasional light contact), but cheaper ones that use lower grades of steel have to make up for the weaker materials by increasing bulk. Avoid them.

ok so what should i use to lube my new o-ring chain??!?! i heard nothing then i heard WD 40

I have an X ring with about 50 hours on it and one adjustment.. going strong.

ok so what should i use to lube my new o-ring chain??!?! i heard nothing then i heard WD 40

Yeah, I'd like to know as well since I just ordered a Regina.

i got a renthal R3

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