Mikuni needle question

I took out my stock carb (Mikuni) from my DRZ400s for cleaning and possible upgrades but will have to wait on the upgrade. Can anyone tell me with any degree of certainty the order of the washers/spacers on the needle?? There is a thin one and a thick one. Which goes on the bottom and which goes on the top?? I want to order the jet kit, but I'm confused. What does "w/o FLTR" mean on the TT store kit?? I have gotten lots of information from this site, but maybe I'm on it to much. I seem to get more confused the more I read. Also, my airbox also had some holes in the right side already (bought bike used) Is this stock?? Should I cover them and make 1 3x3 hole in the top??

Thanks

Jim

I took out my stock carb (Mikuni) from my DRZ400s for cleaning and possible upgrades but will have to wait on the upgrade. Can anyone tell me with any degree of certainty the order of the washers/spacers on the needle?? There is a thin one and a thick one. Which goes on the bottom and which goes on the top?? I want to order the jet kit, but I'm confused. What does "w/o FLTR" mean on the TT store kit?? I have gotten lots of information from this site, but maybe I'm on it to much. I seem to get more confused the more I read. Also, my airbox also had some holes in the right side already (bought bike used) Is this stock?? Should I cover them and make 1 3x3 hole in the top??

Thanks

Jim

thin washer

e-clip

white plastic spacer

thick metal washer

in that order for the needle.

The Dynojet kit for the S model is #3109.The JD kit is JDS005 I believe.

Are the holes just in the air box side cover?

thin washer

e-clip

white plastic spacer

thick metal washer

in that order for the needle.

The Dynojet kit for the S model is #3109.The JD kit is JDS005 I believe.

Are the holes just in the air box side cover?

Thanks. I assume thats top to bottom?? The holes are actually in the air box itself. It looks like the previous owner may have drilled them. I was going to measure them and then cut out the top so the sum of all holes = 3x3 (or 9 squre inches). Or is best to just cover them up and do the 3x3??

Yup.Top to bottom referenced from the flat end.

As for the without "FLTR",all that means is that the kit is not equiped with an air filter.The Moose and FMF jet kits are also the same as they are just reboxed Dynojet kits.All made in the same place.

You want the airbox mod to come out to no more than 9 square in.I guess you could determine the existing area and then enlarge the snorkel hole the appropriate amount to achieve that sum,or tape off the holes but I would think that would look kinda funky.

Yup.Top to bottom referenced from the flat end.

As for the without "FLTR",all that means is that the kit is not equiped with an air filter.The Moose and FMF jet kits are also the same as they are just reboxed Dynojet kits.All made in the same place.

You want the airbox mod to come out to no more than 9 square in.I guess you could determine the existing area and then enlarge the snorkel hole the appropriate amount to achieve that sum,or tape off the holes but I would think that would look kinda funky.

The holes are in the air box itself not the side cover. So covering them up would only be seen when the side cover is off (by right side I mean where your right leg would be when riding) Thanks for the needle info. I think I may wait and order the jet kit before I reassemble. The bike hesitates when I take off. Once your moving it's great.. its just that initial take off from closed throttle to gunnin' it. Sounds like a new needle would help. There's a 150 main in there now. Should I go bigger?? Hard to tell what the pilot is.

Take out the pilot and see what it is.You'll want a #25.I would check to see that it is clean and clear.That could certainly contribute to your problem especially if the bike has sat for more than a few weeks.I'd look at the float setting too while you're in there.Might as well go right through the carb and do it right.

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