AC/DC Wiring help needed.

lets not over complicate this....

What i just said is all you need to do, + run your lighting earths back to your battery negative terminal.

All good?

If you do exactly what i just said then you will come back and say "CRF45OX, you username sux but your Instructions served me well!"

I have decided to do it this way (thanks Rich in Orlando) that way is exactly as you recommend and have ordered one of those bridge rectifiers.

my only concern is about the existing and new rectifier's mounting after doing this mod.

do they have to be isolated from the frame so they don't "earth out"?

thanks for all your great advice, sorry for being a pain in the ass and not grasping it all 1st time. i'd just read so many different ways to get DC power from an AC supply but none of the schematics were specifically for my setup, until now when i've actually "taken it all in" and realised it was much, much simpler than i'd made it out to be at first.

but just to clarify....

i take my existing yellow wire (stator)

connect it as normal into oem reg/rect (blue wire)

take the other wire from the oem reg/rect (black wire)

connect it to one of the AC inputs on the bridge rectifier and send the other AC connection to the frame?

yeh? i hope so.......

cheers Steve

I have decided to do it this way...

i take my existing yellow wire (stator)

connect it as normal into oem reg/rect (blue wire)

take the other wire from the oem reg/rect (black wire)

connect it to one of the AC inputs on the bridge rectifier and send the other AC connection to the frame?

yeh? i hope so.......

cheers Steve


Thats it mate

No hang on - the wire that goes to your light switch is a yellow wire, that wire goes to your rectifier that i told you to buy and the other terminal goes to the frame. Got it? (dont worry, im patient)

you see, the regulator on your bike regulates the voltage by shorting the excess voltage to ground. thats why the yellow wire goes to your reg then to the frame.


All good?

and im talking about the yellow wire that is going to your light switch.

Thanks guys, i've finally got it!

now to go shopping for some cable to make up a seperate harness for the DC.

what amps cable do i need, as in the diagrams from it says 18ga? here in the U.K we go by amps rating on wire not 16/18/20ga etc, googled it but can't find any info on the specs?

any ideas what the total DC load will be if all lights/indicators/horn were on at once?

i bought some 3 amp speaker cable the other day, but i don't think it'll be big enough, perhaps i should've got 10 amp instead?

thanks again guys..:lol:

The total current that could flow through the wires is no more than 10 amps. (120 watt stator output at 12 volts = 10 amps.)

ok, thanks Rich.

the 3 amp stuff would be good enough for anything except the headlight.

just use the formula watts / voltage = Amps to figure out what size cable you need.

Good to hear that you have made sense of it all - this will be a very handy thread for lots of people that will visit the site too.

Cheers Mate.

Digging this old thread as I face a similar issue.

My 00 WR400F's regulator is toasted, so I bought a Trailtech R/R for 03/05 and like to install a battery. As the earlier posts defines 00's stator is single wave and grounded to the frame while 03/05 has two yellow wires to connect to the stator. .

I am not confident in grounding mounting the new R/R, so I need so advice.

If I follow Baja Design's instruction to connect one of the R/R's yellow wire to the frame, should all my electrical components be strictly ground to my battery only?

you can buy a rectifier from your local electronics store that is rated to 35 amps and only cost a couple of bucks - this converts ac to dc, then go strait to your battery and then to your lighting circuit - this makes everything DC.

connect the ac side of the rectifier to the yellow from the stator and the other leg to the frame, then the other 2 terminals on your rectifier is positive and negative - connect these to your battery.

all your lights will need to go back to the battery negative, not the frame.

If you have any problems give us a yell.

Problem Solved.

I know it's been a while but you said give you a yell I've done this and its working well. My question is can and how would I go about using a relay or solid state relay and a diode to eliminate the need for a switch or key. if I use my dc positive feed off the bridge rectifier to feed the trigger on the relay will that feed still charge my battery ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1406722227.507171.jpg

Mate, dont worry about the details, just do this....

connect the yellow wire from your OEM reg/rec to one terminal of the ac side of your aftermarket rectifier that i told you to buy and connect the other ac terminal of the rectifier to your FRAME!!!

Then the other 2 terminals on your aftermarket rectifier is DC + -

Simple hey???

and by the way - that link you have is exactly what you need to buy!!!


Do I splice into the yellow wire to take it to my rectifier or cut and put it straight on the rectifier?

You guys have been so helpful since I'm about to buy a trail tech kit for my wr450f 06, mainly because the original stator is shot and I'd like to up the watts and add some lights and stuff..... It all seems to be plug and play yet there's that wire that goes to the ignition switch that's got me thinking.... When I get the parts I'll write a post and maybe place a vid on YouTube showing how I did it

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