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DR650SE Needle Comparison

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If you are going to use the KTM needle it does not have to be shimmed... it can use the stock needle's white plastic spacer that sits up on the edge of the D-shelf (it's a long needle like the stocker). If you wanted to base the needle off the bottom of the slide instead of the plastic spacer hanging on the D-shelf (to avoid the known pitfall of the white plastic spacer wearing and dropping the needle leaner) then yes, you'd need a 7mm spacer to get the needle back up where it needs to be. Cutting the slide spring increases throttle response by reducing preload... but it can also add to surging on a gusty wind day. Running the snorkel will obviously reduce the likelihood of this happening. The good thing is springs are cheap so you can play around with different lengths for minimal $. Use the stock 140 main and 42.5 pilot jets. Both are plenty rich with the stock air box.

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I installed a KTM needle and lined it up with the stock one from the bottom. I then put the c-clip at the same distance from the bottom. It is at the second notch from the bottom. I tried it out last Friday and it seems to work fine. It's hard to tell when you can't get above secong gear and are riding on snow covered ice. I thought I read to put the c-clip second from the top, but that would be too lean compared to the stock needle, I think. The fact that I needed full choke to start and was able to idle without it after five minutes was a good sign. It was about 35F outside.

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I installed a KTM needle and lined it up with the stock one from the bottom. I then put the c-clip at the same distance from the bottom. It is at the second notch from the bottom. I tried it out last Friday and it seems to work fine. It's hard to tell when you can't get above secong gear and are riding on snow covered ice. I thought I read to put the c-clip second from the top, but that would be too lean compared to the stock needle, I think. The fact that I needed full choke to start and was able to idle without it after five minutes was a good sign. It was about 35F outside.

Cool!... I mean, cold! :lol: A lot of us are waiting for this white stuff to melt off. Definitely best to make your final adjustments once the weather gets to the sane ridable temperatures you plan on enjoying most of the time. :thumbsup:

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Cold weather and poor performance was the original reason to work on this carb.

Last fall, the bike ran like crap in the rain and cold (around freezing temps).

Upon inspection, the carb had a 147.5 jet instead of the stock 140.

Your work has made this task much easier and taken the guess work out of it.

Thanks again. :thumbsup:

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I then put the c-clip at the same distance from the bottom. It is at the second notch from the bottom.

If you want to start with the new needle at the same height as the old one measure from the top of the taper to the clip groove. In other words where the straight part of the needle transitions to the tapered part.

When you raise or lower the clip the biggest change you are making is how soon the taper starts coming out of the needle jet.

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If you want to start with the new needle at the same height as the old one measure from the top of the taper to the clip groove. In other words where the straight part of the needle transitions to the tapered part.

When you raise or lower the clip the biggest change you are making is how soon the taper starts coming out of the needle jet.

:smirk::foul::rant:

I never thought of that.

Now if I had 20/20 vision...

Is there a picture comparing the two needles?

Now I need to search back through the 67 pages to find it.:lol:

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bumblebee #467675 thread

Don't know if you have opened the airbox to allow more breathing capability for your engine, but this is an area of restriction and should be considered while working with you needle position and pilot air adjustment screw located under the aluminum plug on the bottom of the carb. This adjustment also comes into play when trying to get a good clean adjustment. Use very small adjustments to this screw after the engine is at full running temperature to get the cleanest response. Be very carefull in drilling out this plug because you don't want the dill bit to make contact with the head of the pilot air jet. Good Luck!

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The fuel/air screw is already changed to a thumbscrew. I wish mx_rob had tried a run with a stock air intake setup, snorkel and all. Anyways, I'm going to play with it. I should be able to fine tune it with the air/fuel screw. If all else fails, I'll move the needle down one notch(move clip up). Maybe I should try it like that to start with. Without a sensor, I'm guessing.

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Just like the stock needle you can't change the air box using the KTM needle. The most you can do is remove the snorkel. Once you open the air box you need the DJ needle to supply the required fuel in the 1/4 to 7/8 throttle range.

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Just a bit using the KTM needle. Hardly worth the effort IMO. The milder taper of the stock and KTM needles don't supply the needed fuel in the lower and upper mid throttle range for a modded air box.

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After reading (mostly) this entire thread, it appears the final solution for you was the FCR, but for those of us who wish to remain loyal to the BST :thumbsup: , the DynoJet kit ultimately won the fight. It's too bad this can't all be summarized,stickied and locked.

Velo

True Dat! My head is spinning and my eyes are bugging out reading all of this. This is one amazing thread and alot of hard work and DR dedication has been put into it. However, information overload for the newbie! It would be nice for these gurus to make a schematic listing the mods, which needle (DJ, KTM, Stock), Main Jet, Pilot Jet, Fuel Screw, etc.

A locked thread would be nice after this is done.

I personally have a 01 DR 650, Removed snorkel, K & N air filter, stock needle with .30 shim. Seems to run good but not superb.

Thanks guys!

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Hi Rob,

do you think the serial Mikuni-needles 6 DP 10 or 6 N 1 are worth a try instead of the Dynojet? They seem to be similar in taper and are available as normal spares.

6 N 1 overall length 62,3 37,0 diametre: 2.514 2.514 2.514 2.278 1.672 1.058

6 DP 10 overall length 62,4 26,5 diametre: 2.510 2.510 2.440 2.260 1.560 0.890

Edited by el capitan

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Hi Rob,

do you think the serial Mikuni-needles 6 F 10 or 6 N 1 are worth a try instead of the Dynojet? They seem to be similar in taper and are available as normal spares.

6 N 1 overall length 62,3 37,0 diametre: 2.514 2.514 2.514 2.278 1.672 1.058

6 DP 10 overall length 62,4 26,5 diametre: 2.510 2.510 2.440 2.260 1.560 0.890

As cheap as stock needles like that are it would certainly be worth the effort to try them out if they closely match the DJ needle dimensions. :thumbsup:

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I stumbled across that possibility just a bit too late to try out personally - my 39 MX was already on the way. And NOOOO way will I ever go back to the stock carb :-)))

PS: Raptor-petcocks are on backorder in Europe - s*#t! Would have been faster to order in the US. Curious to see if the WOT-surge after some seconds will be history after swapping petcocks.

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