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connecting rod is OUR culprit

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Well guys, I used the 'search this forum' so many different ways trying to get to the bottom of my buddies problem with his '05 RMZ450. So here is my feedback and contribution to try to help out others who may be unsure as to how deep to look.

Its hard to shorten a subject like this when all info is so vital but I'll do my best:crazy: ... First signs that he had a problem was that he was going thru (burning?) more oil than normal one oil change, then even more on the next. Also he noticed that his outlet on the exhaust silencer had a thick oily build-up on it. So he decides to let me make his "baby", MY "guinea pig"! (suckaaaaa):applause:

Before the teardown started, I checked valve clearance and inspected top-end parts as I went. Few hours later and I'm looking at a scraped-up nikasil cylinder wall but no flaking yet, a piston skirt with light grooves and tiny bits of metal embedded in a couple of the grooves, a cylinder head that needed to get looked deeper into, and a connecting rod sticking up out of the cases. If you get to this point and you are following the manual you will notice that it calls for you to check the connecting rod side-to-side freeplay and gives you a clearance of 0.040 in. for that measurement (almost sure that is correct...). That is as far as that chapter (6 I believe) tells you to inspect the rod. Even if you are only doing the topend DO NOT STOP THERE! turn further in the book to the procedure for transmission and crank removal/inst (this I believe is 10). In this section it gives you a more critical inspection for the rod that it has and I am pretty sure it is referred to as 'connecting rod deflection'. If I had only known to look further than the steps of section 6 in the manual! :censored::ride:

I tore down the cylinder head checking all specs and cleaning all the parts necessary, got it ready to be re-installed. My buddy took the cylinder to a local shop who told him that the light grooves in the cylinder were nothing to worry about and ran it thru a machine which maybe very lightly honed the walls. I do know that the cylinder was well round and well within spec. Put it all back together with new piston and rings. He had it running the next day and after a few practice laps I had him change the oil and cut me a filter. Some metal, but hell, it just got new rings. Bike was strong and he was happy and so was I.................. until, the day after he races it. Had him cut me another filter and OUCH!:lol: More metal than I could imagine could be in that lil engine.

Time for a teardown of a whole engine was looking eminent. This is when I really took to the searching to get an idea of what I might be looking at. From everyones tales of their adventures with their '05 RMZ450's my aim took me to find the problems with my buddies bike. Here are some pictures ofthe parts from my buddies engine, if, they work. (as if this post ain't long enough already huh?)

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oil screens were not bad at all......

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If these pics work, I hope this may help someone else know just how far they ought to look. Also, my buddy races VETX series and some others and has ridden the bike for 2 years quite often before any of this went down.

peace ,

Daryl

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A racing bike for 2 years and just so little damage!:censored: That is not to bad, how many hours do you think was on the bike? 100 hours would be more than enough!:ride:

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amazing topic....

it happened to me after few hours, fixed by warranty (in Italy we have warranty for street version), paid nothing.

But some rod bearing parts were swimming inside crankcase, so a big crack during a trip.I broke the cranckcase.

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Thanks for the post. You see how the rod looks in your project? That's what my pin looked like. But only about 1/3 around it. My rod looked fine as well as my bearing. I seem to have caught mine sooner, before bearing came apart. Still had the cylinder scuffs like yours.

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A racing bike for 2 years and just so little damage!:lol: That is not to bad, how many hours do you think was on the bike? 100 hours would be more than enough!:applause:

Hey Poo, nobody is complaining on my end of this repair......... I am simply trying to help out in a way that would have helped me had I seen it before just doing a topend on the bike. Are we "defensive" or what? As I stated in the bottom of my post, my buddy raced it for two years in a few different series. Just showing what "our" warning signs and cause was.....:censored::ride:

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Thanks for the post. You see how the rod looks in your project? That's what my pin looked like. But only about 1/3 around it. My rod looked fine as well as my bearing. I seem to have caught mine sooner, before bearing came apart. Still had the cylinder scuffs like yours.

163, I think I read a post of yours in another thread by a guy who had his bike seize. I believe you got yours back together for around a grand in parts alone......? Hope all your issues are solved :censored:

Daryl

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I just got my replated jug back and ordered all the lower end parts for my RMZ today. I bet my rod and bearing are going to look just like that one in the pic. I just hope the rebuild lasts longer than the original lower end.

And for all of you guys who are suzuki appologists, saying that it is no big deal because it was a 2 yr old race bike....GET REAL, This is a shoddy piece of junk motorcycle, sorry but it is true.... I have had Yamahas that I have run until the freaking wheels are ready to fall off and the whole bike looks like it has raced 10 baja 1000's in a row and never had the slightesty engine problem. Sure, Hondas eat intake valves. They are $50 each and you can do a top end job on a honda 450 in a few hours for a total cost (with valves) of a couple hundred bucks. That is a far cry from the suzuki piece of shit that eats itsself from the inside out in a shockingly short time frame and does so even if maintained perfectly.

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163, I think I read a post of yours in another thread by a guy who had his bike seize. I believe you got yours back together for around a grand in parts alone......? Hope all your issues are solved :censored:

Daryl

I had just under $600 parts and labor in mine. I got off pretty cheap. I did have 60 hours on mine, so it would have been close to ready for a top end anyway. Just glad I'm good about maintaining my bikes. Otherwise it could have been a lot worse.

Runs great again...

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Hey guys, my buddy didn't have an hour meter so he did some addition of all the races he did with the bike and we pretty much came up with at least 80 to 100 hours but more than likely he had over that 100 hour mark. He loves the bike still and said he would buy another later so long as these issues don't continue with the newer models. I know that 80 plus hours on a bike is alot and that wear will take place but I do NOT think "that" type of wear is normal by any means.

I personally would do alot of research on any new bike that I purchase and I don't care if its yellow, blue, orange, red, and on and on........... I bought a WR450 as my first ever brand new motorcycle after growing up never riding anything but Hondas. I always thought that the only way I'd ever own anything but a Honda would be if it was given to me for free........ So much for that crap heh?

These bikes ( Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki, KTM) are all great bikes but if I happen to own a Yamaha and it ends up having a common problem, I'm not gonna defend them just because I bought one and don't want to look like I didn't make the right choice! Some have problems with woodruff keys shearing, some have problems with clutches not lasting at all, some have problems with premature valve wear, some have problems with spoke nuts coming loose after one or two rides,................ and some have problems with connecting rod bearing surfaces or the bearing or pin which happen to be a huge pain in the a$$ to get to and that cost a bit more for parts that take forever to get to your local dealer..... Was that a run-on sentence?:censored:

Anyway guys, I hope I was able to help someone out or help them later if they come across this post. Peace.

Daryl

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I am just very bitter and you have got to admit that there is a fundamental design flaw of some kind with the crankshaft. I will feel much better in a few weeks when it is running again.

Honestly, I wish this thing was a reliable bike because I love it, I actually enjoy it a bit mure than my CRF450R because it handles so well and is easy to ride, the Honda tires me out a little faster

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I saw this thread last week. My '05 RM-Z450 has been making more noise after full top end rebuild a couple months ago, so I wondered about this crank bearing issue.

This past weekend, it started making a very loud clunking from around the lower end. Bike still ran strong. Took to shop and got the call today that it looks like the crank bearing going bad on mine. The mechanic mentioned an aftermarket crank rebuild company that uses better bearings than original (I think he said Pro-X), so I hope that cures it for the future.

Does anyone know if this is related to '05s only? Did they upgrade the bearing for '06/'07?

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My advice to anyone who has a good running RMZ450:

SELL IT NOW while it still runs

I dream about the day I can watch my 06 RMZ go down the road on the back of someone elses truck...what a fine day that will be

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My advice to anyone who has a good running RMZ450:

SELL IT NOW while it still runs

I dream about the day I can watch my 06 RMZ go down the road on the back of someone elses truck...what a fine day that will be

Whipit, your frustration makes me laugh. Especially the way that you convey it.:censored: I hate that this crap is even an issue for all you rmz guys.... I will say that, IF you have a decent amount of riding time on your '05, '06, and possibly '07 (being that the part numbers didn't change on either as far as I have read), you should not wait for the noise to come around before you start a teardown for diagnosis...... Spend the time and money now before those super-hard bits of metal go thru your oil pumps and scar the cases and get to the crank and trans shaft bearings. All those roller bearings should last through a few rebuild before needing to be replaced. I know that the philosophy seems to remain the same that, "since you're there, you may as well replace them." But the fact is, that the bearings and the inner and outer rotors on the TWO oil pumps add up quickly resulting in an even HIGHER cost rebuild! If you got money to just throw around, then more than likely you wouldn't even be reading this thread. So saying that the money isn't an issue shouldn't apply in these circumstances. The noise from these already loud as heck engines increases slowly for a bit and then increases fast at the point just before seizure. My buddy only caught it when he did (still too late) because he began burning more oil than he was comfortable with. At that point the engine didn't seem to be excessively noisy to him, he only noticed how much quieter it was after the bottom end rebuild. Thats food for thought heh?:ride::lol::applause:

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Hey Poo, nobody is complaining on my end of this repair......... I am simply trying to help out in a way that would have helped me had I seen it before just doing a topend on the bike. Are we "defensive" or what? As I stated in the bottom of my post, my buddy raced it for two years in a few different series. Just showing what "our" warning signs and cause was.....:censored::ride:

Hi there chiefsfan i only wanted to say that for a race bike of 2 years the motor would have already been blown up in smoke:cry: if it was not a SUZUKI! HA HA HA HA HA HA. Thanks for the pics and a great post!:lol:

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Whipit, your frustration makes me laugh. Especially the way that you convey it.:censored: I hate that this crap is even an issue for all you rmz guys.... I will say that, IF you have a decent amount of riding time on your '05, '06, and possibly '07 (being that the part numbers didn't change on either as far as I have read), you should not wait for the noise to come around before you start a teardown for diagnosis...... Spend the time and money now before those super-hard bits of metal go thru your oil pumps and scar the cases and get to the crank and trans shaft bearings. All those roller bearings should last through a few rebuild before needing to be replaced. I know that the philosophy seems to remain the same that, "since you're there, you may as well replace them." But the fact is, that the bearings and the inner and outer rotors on the TWO oil pumps add up quickly resulting in an even HIGHER cost rebuild! If you got money to just throw around, then more than likely you wouldn't even be reading this thread. So saying that the money isn't an issue shouldn't apply in these circumstances. The noise from these already loud as heck engines increases slowly for a bit and then increases fast at the point just before seizure. My buddy only caught it when he did (still too late) because he began burning more oil than he was comfortable with. At that point the engine didn't seem to be excessively noisy to him, he only noticed how much quieter it was after the bottom end rebuild. Thats food for thought heh?:ride::lol::applause:

Well I am glad you find it amusing, that's nice

I see you have a Yamaha as your signature pic, I assume you are a Yamaha guy... that probably has something to do with your feelings on the topic!! I suppose if I did not own an RMZ450 I could stop by this forum for a chuckle now and then also

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