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Weird Idle problem

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So I have a question. I have noticed something over the few years I have had my DRZ. It is really interesting. I have four brothers and we all own DRZ's. Two have the S model and two have the E model. We with the S have noticed that when the bike gets warm it takes the bike a little longer to get back to normal idleing. It just stays high. It really stinks going down hill, because you need the engine to slow you down, and it doesn't. Those with the E don't have this problem and they are all fine and do not notice what we notice. It is still cold up here in Idaho, but we are taking a trip to Moab and I started my bike and let it get warmed up and it did the same thing today. It is not that bad, but it is not great either. Does anyone else notice this? Is there a solution. I have lived with it for the past few years, and I guess I just want to solve it. I have messed around with the jetting many times, and adjusted the fuel screw to what I think is fine. Any other thoughts or solutions?

thanks,

CER

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The is because of the EPA. Lean carb idle circuit provides us with the infamous 'hanging idle'.

The S and the SM have typically leaner jetting in the pilot circuit. You could try to open the fuel screw a little, although most here simply put in a 25 pilot jet instead of the stocker 22.5 and then they set the fuel screw at 2.5 turns out from gently closed.

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Hi,

me and some other german DR-Z-Drivers have the same "problem".

I tried to set the F-Screw out to 3 turns.

Not perfect.

The next step will be a 25 pilot jet.

me

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Yeah, if you are lucky, a tweak of the fuel screw is all you may need, but most of the time, you have to go to the 25 in the Mikuni BSR 36.

Remember, you want to avoid having the fuel screw out more than 3 turns.

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Remember, you want to avoid having the fuel screw out more than 3 turns.

First of all, why do you need to avoid more than three turns. I have messed around with it so much as of late that I have no idea where it is. It could be more than three turns though.

I do have the 25 jet in there, with every option at the fuel screw and it does the same thing.

Should I just put a different pilot jet in there and try that or should I live with it till I can buy another carb (which may be years away on a students salary).

What other things can I try?

Thanks

CER

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After three turns, the tension on the spring is reduced and there is a chance of it vibrating out. Also, after three turns, it is basically wide open and further opening yields nothing.

You can try a larger pilot jet, but I have not heard of anyone needing anything larger than a 25.

You might want to look to see if you have a vacum leak.

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