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xr440: to port or not to port

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I have my engine taken down for a top end rebuild, and have a professional ready to port the head for 200$.

Specs: xr440, 12.5:1 compression, new valve springs new valves, stage 2 cams, fmf exhaust.

Do i need hardened rockers?

This bike is just my screw around town bike. And i think i may upgrade to something a bit bigger soon such as the xr650 or cr500.

So should i port? Some of you guys that have a similar setup and have ported or not ported, can you give me some ideas of your experience.

What do you think my reliability factor will be? How many miles till another rebuild? This thing is mainly for the road, and will be converted to supermoto soon as well if i keep it.

(updated feb 16, 23:46)

So my question is, should i clean it up myself with a dremel and the appropriate bits, or should i just leave it. It is not a bike that i am gonna cry if i screw up a little. I am really just more interested in learning.

Each intake and exhaust ports have ridges of casting flaws about 4-5 inches long and probably about .002-.007 inches in average height.

Specs on engine currently after this rebuild: 440 kit, new kb spring kit, hotcams stage 2, fmf exhaust, 160 main,

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Thanks in advance.

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Wow, that's a hi compression ratio. Are you gonna have to burn race gas in that? Seems like premium pump gas would be right on the edge of not being hi octane enough.

Xrs Only says the Hotcams Stage 2 uses stock rockers.

From what I understand about porting, it's done on race machines to get every ounce out of an engine. For everyday screw around town bikes, unless you just have some extra cash to spend, it's probably better spent somewhere else. I'm sure it would make the head flow better, but how much and what it's worth to you is something only you can answer. If you go with porting, it's said it's best to skip the polishing tho.

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I would say it's deffinately not worth $200. There is a simple little port job you can do yourself. If you look at the little manifold thingy and how it addresses the head it's obvious that the intake gets stacked up against the left side. By opening up the right side of the right intake port it makes a significant difference. Get a Dremmel and some fine sanding cylinders and take about 3/32s (less than 1/8") off the right side of the right port. Finish it off by cutting some 2" square pieces, wrapped around and taped to the end of your finger. You can also hit the right side of the web between the ports.

Be sure to match the right side of the plastic manifold to what you took off the head.

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