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How to remove the stator / ignition cover

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Some time ago my bike developed a problem where it started to misfire at higher rpm's and the battery only lasted about two days. Experts on this forum reckoned it to be the stator that was bad. I decided to investigate. I referred to the manual but it does not show many pics on the stator, there are quite a number of stator questions so I hope these pics can help some of you if you have to get to the ignition cover one day.

First off remove the shift lever and engine guards / skid plate. Unplug the wiring coming from the stator at the airbox cover and CDI.

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There are a total of eight 6mm bolts that needs to be removed, one of which is located behind the starter gear. Start by removing the starter gear cover first. It is held on by three bolts which can be a pain to remove without a proper screwdriver.

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As you can see I used an impact screwdriver which can be bought at any auto parts store, it will make your job alot easier and is a usefull tool to have in the toolbox. Once the cover is off (tight fit it has an o-ring seal) you can pull out the starter gear assembly.

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Be carefull as there is a bush and washer at the back of this assembly that can stay behind or drop to the floor. Here you can see the bush, I removed mine and put it on the starter gear assembly shaft. Also note the bolt that has to be removed to remove the cover.

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After removing all of the bolts the cover can be removed, the magnets and tight fit of the starter shaft means it will take some persuasion to remove. I used a rubber mallet and lightly tapped the cover until it popped off.

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The stator sits inside the cover and is held on by three small allen bolts. The pickup and tab that keeps the wiring in place are held on by two bolts each. Here is a pic of the stator in the cover, that is my new rewound stator.

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To keep the covers bolts in order I made a little drawing on cardboard to let me know which one goes where.

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This is what my stator looked like, one of the coils were completely black. Even in this state my DRZ kept on running for more than three months !

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And the stator rewound.

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I wanted to buy a new one but the price Suzuki asks is just crazy ! I will see how long this one lasts, the shop I used came highly recommended and it cost me an eight of the price of a new stator. Putting everything back together is just a reverse of the above.

The bike started up first right away and all the voltages looks good ! Not sure if I got all the parts naming correct but it was a pretty simple process, if I could do it anyone can :censored:

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I have recieved so much help on this site so it was nice to put something back even if it's as simple as removing the stator. Over here is SA it cost me

R500 that is about $80. They did a good job, very pleased and at last my bike charges around 14V at idle :censored:

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Isn't it supposed to be a washer on the end of the lower idle gear shaft?

I can't se the washer in your pics...

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Onya Dan, i just went through this on Friday, i need a rewind as I am getting only 9Vac from one of the three yellow output wires, and i could have done with these pics to take a little of the internal mystery out of it.

The workshop manual is a bit crap on this subject.

A stator rewind is roughly $160-$200 in Aus.

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Simple is as simple does, nice write up Dan. Its always nice to see good photography and read a good description on any process, it makes things a ton clearer when its your turn.

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Exellent job, this will come in handy when I get my new stator in this week. Thanks again.

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Did you have to buy a new gasket or did you re-use your old one?

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I've had mine apart 2 times and reused the gasket each time...but, I dont mean to brag, I am the master of reusing gaskets, so your results may vary

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Did you have to buy a new gasket or did you re-use your old one?

I had the stator cover off over the weekend (for the purposes of the primary nut fix), and I was able to re-use the stator cover gasket. No oil leaks so far.

The o-ring for the starter gear cover is another matter... somehow mine got stretched in the process of removal, and when I tried to re-install it, it got pinched and torn. I'd recommend having another one of those on hand. I was able to make a "field repair" to get things back together, but I'm going to need a new o-ring.

Also, I had a hell of a time removing the screws for the starter gear cover... seems they get corroded and stick in there pretty tight. Whose brilliant idea was it to use phillips screws anyway? :cool: I was able to remove two out of three screws using my impact driver, but the third one stripped on me and I ended up having to drill it out. So you might want to take that into consideration and make sure you have tools on hand to remove a stripped screw if necessary. Mine have now been replaced with allen screws.

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I had the stator cover off over the weekend (for the purposes of the primary nut fix), and I was able to re-use the stator cover gasket. No oil leaks so far.

The o-ring for the starter gear cover is another matter... somehow mine got stretched in the process of removal, and when I tried to re-install it, it got pinched and torn. I'd recommend having another one of those on hand. I was able to make a "field repair" to get things back together, but I'm going to need a new o-ring.

Also, I had a hell of a time removing the screws for the starter gear cover... seems they get corroded and stick in there pretty tight. Whose brilliant idea was it to use phillips screws anyway? :cool: I was able to remove two out of three screws using my impact driver, but the third one stripped on me and I ended up having to drill it out. So you might want to take that into consideration and make sure you have tools on hand to remove a stripped screw if necessary. Mine have now been replaced with allen screws.

I heated the screws up with a propane torch(careful theres a carb right there) and they came out like butter. The starter gear cover o-ring gets worked back in with a small screwdriver or pick so you dont pinch it

I dont take the shift lever off either, theres a big drop from neutral to first and makes more then enough room for any clearance you might need

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Guys, I've spent since 10am till 3pm trying to get mine off. Rubber mallet, 2 buddies (helping) and female friends all watching us fail.

Seriously, what gives? The seal was broken quite wide, everything was free except for the idle gear/starter motor connection. I was pulling, rocking and pulling, banging, banging and pulling, banging and rocking and pulling... the most i got apart at the top right was about 3-4mm about a 1/10¨.

Suggestions please!!

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there is a screw under the starter gear cover did you get that one ???otherwise its just tension from the magnets and starter or oring

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Yeah I followed the Clymer book to the letter:

remove:

  • shifter pedal,

  • left tray guard,

  • front sprocket guard,

  • loosen off oil hose,

  • remove idle gear assembly

  • and follow that by the 7 external bolts + 1 internal from inside the idle gear housing.

I added the rubber mallet from this thread.

Just couldn't shift it. :banghead: :banghead:

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I found it helpful to use a spring puller to get behind one of those tabs to pull a bit as I tapped with the rubber mallet. worked well for me the other weekend.

HP_HDSpringPuller.jpg

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