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Big bore (Athena)

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I wonder if the Athena 436 kit have enougth valveclerance for the RHC 187 cams?

(stock valve size)

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Eddie does RHC make a complete valve kit for the stock size head? So if you didn't want to get the head done you could just replace the stock stuff with RHC.

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Eddie does RHC make a complete valve kit for the stock size head? So if you didn't want to get the head done you could just replace the stock stuff with RHC.

I'm not Eddie, but yeah, Ron makes a spring kit and has 1 piece coated valves for the stock head. He is out of exhaust valves right now though. I'm waiting on 3 sets myself.

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I'm not Eddie, but yeah, Ron makes a spring kit and has 1 piece coated valves for the stock head. He is out of exhaust valves right now though. I'm waiting on 3 sets myself.

Does Ron Hamp have a website? If so, could you post a link?

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Right. THey are cut out of a single piece of billet instead of fused together. Ron also has the valve stems coated. You pay a bit more, but worth it if you ask me.

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Right. THey are cut out of a single piece of billet instead of fused together. Ron also has the valve stems coated. You pay a bit more, but worth it if you ask me.

So, if the valve guides are still in good shape, you could install the RH valves with only seating them properly? I would like to install new valves and springs, etc. for use with stage 2 Hot Cams that I have. My stock valve train has about 6K on it and I really think that new "beefed" up valves and springs will last longer with the Hot Cams.

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You could get by with using new guide seals and a bit of valve grinding compound. When you install the valves, don't twist them into the guide, just push slightly, then use a bit of valve gringing compound on between the seat and the valve head. Twist the valve back and forth to get the valve grinding compound to make a good contact between the seat and the head. Then clean the surface extremely thouroghly. Use a bit of carb break cleaner to spray out the remaining valve grinding compound and then compressed air to dry it. Install the springs and keepers and shim up to spec.

But I would suggest that you at least hav eth seats checked alongside the new valves to make sure you tollerances are acceptable. You can check them your self. If you don't know how to check the sealing surfaces, I'll be glad to explain.

I would have the valves seats recut if it were me though. Eddie performs that service and I'm sure there is a TT discount that would kick in.

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no valve grinding compound with modern valves.it will remove the coating.

Then how is seating performed?:censored:

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:censored::ride::lol: I dunno what I was thinking. Automotive shop or something?

no valve grinding compound with modern valves.it will remove the coating.

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when i ordered my valve kit from ron he told me to use the old valves to do the reseating.then put in the new ones.

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when i ordered my valve kit from ron he told me to use the old valves to do the reseating.then put in the new ones.

Are the valves you purchased from RH solid titanium without the stellite coating?

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the Ti valves are coated.

there is no short cut.the 45 degree need to be touched up at a minimum.

Hmm, can you recommend a manufacturer of the cutter and the diameter?

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