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Use lock-tite?

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I just installed a new set of barkbusters, and the instructions do not mention using locktite. Should I use it? These are the guards that have the full bar.

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Just one more vote for the loc-tite. I use it on my bark busters (Moose Racing alum. bar-type), and everything else. But be sure it's the blue that you're using...if you use the red loc-tite, you'll need heat to break the bolts loose.

One more little morsel on installation procedure...I've gotten into the habit of cinching my bolts on the bark busters just to the point that it takes a firm whack with the hand to get them to move a little. This helps prevent bent bars in a crash. Something has to absorb the impact, I'd prefer to knock the busters back into place than to buy new bars...

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One other thing about loc-tite: first it acts as an anti-sieze as well as thread locker, so if you use it to hold a steel screw into an aluminum part, it won't gall the threads. I know loc-tite (as well as common sense) says you need to use heat to break the seal of red loc-tite, but I work in a machine shop and I've taken red loc-tited parts apart before without heat. I would've used heat, but I always try to loosen parts with a breaker bar first and sometimes it gives.

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One other thing about loc-tite: first it acts as an anti-sieze as well as thread locker, so if you use it to hold a steel screw into an aluminum part, it won't gall the threads. I know loc-tite (as well as common sense) says you need to use heat to break the seal of red loc-tite, but I work in a machine shop and I've taken red loc-tited parts apart before without heat. I would've used heat, but I always try to loosen parts with a breaker bar first and sometimes it gives.

So do you use the loc-tite on your axle block bolts instead of regular anti-seize compound?

And you're right about breaking the red loc-tite by hand. I've done it a couple of times, but I usually have to use a section of square tubing on the breaker bar for extra leverage.:censored:

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No, I use never-seez on my axles and blocks as well as some other pivot points. But what I meant was that blue-loctite will keep fasteners from welding themselves to aluminum parts, like frames, swingarms and triple clamps. It's kind of a side benefit, not only do you not have to buy new bolts as the loose ones fall out, but you don't have to drill and retap broken, seized bolts out once they break! How much better does life get?

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No, I use never-seez on my axles and blocks as well as some other pivot points. But what I meant was that blue-loctite will keep fasteners from welding themselves to aluminum parts, like frames, swingarms and triple clamps. It's kind of a side benefit, not only do you not have to buy new bolts as the loose ones fall out, but you don't have to drill and retap broken, seized bolts out once they break! How much better does life get?

A-hem.....I'd like you to meet my new mechanic....

1.jpg

duuhhh.gif

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Does your mechanic make housecalls? I'm perfectly willing to pay airfare as well as provide...um..."lodging".

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Personally, I wouldn't use loc-tite there. Just because you might need to take your bark busters off to change grips, fix a bent bar or whatever work you might need done.

Worst part is if you need to take them off on the trail, and you only have a short little allen wrench and can't get enough leverage.

Thats just what I would do.

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Does your mechanic make housecalls? I'm perfectly willing to pay airfare as well as provide...um..."lodging".

As much as I'd like to help you out, she's bound

by strict contractual obligations, I mean....

Zappa, that probably is a good idea...with the bends and all that go into getting them mounted, they probably have enough tension on them to keep from working loose anyway....

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Learned from experience. Still had stock bars and fell at fairly slow pace but bent the left side of the bar about 2" back. Didn't notice when I picked it up but couldn't ride worth a shit like that. Brought it into the barn and used a ratchet allen key to get barkbusters off. Without that, would have f*cked a wrench, on like a mother ...., damn loc-tite. Luckily had the parts to fix it up.

Managed to finish riding without bending them anymore too.

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Learned from experience. Still had stock bars and fell at fairly slow pace but bent the left side of the bar about 2" back. Didn't notice when I picked it up but couldn't ride worth a shit like that. Brought it into the barn and used a ratchet allen key to get barkbusters off. Without that, would have f*cked a wrench, on like a mother ...., damn loc-tite. Luckily had the parts to fix it up.Managed to finish riding without bending them anymore too.
I use a little grease. You shouldn't need thread locker there.

:ride: I guess it never occured to me, but I have become pretty damn good with a box-end wrench slipped over the end of an allen wrench for leverage! :censored:

But, on the upside...I can guarantee I've never had one work loose! :lol:

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Couldn't hurt to use at least blue lock tight. This is my 800th post!!!

Welcome to the precious metals division!:censored:

And yes, blue loc-tite is what I'm always referring to unless I specify "red", which I only use on a very limited basis...breaking that stuff loose is like arm-wrestling a silver-back ape.

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Welcome to the precious metals division!:applause:

And yes, blue loc-tite is what I'm always referring to unless I specify "red", which I only use on a very limited basis...breaking that stuff loose is like arm-wrestling a silver-back ape.

There's a huge range but the common light blue one is nut-loc, good to keep vibration from working threads loose. The common red one is normally used for assemblies with less clearance than threads, like bearings or dowels. You can destroy the bond on most Loctites by heating them, about 200degC will let you loosen or remove most parts easily.

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...but I have become pretty damn good with a box-end wrench slipped over the end of an allen wrench for leverage! :applause:

That's why they make rubber mallets! Tap a combo wrench w/ a mallet on a stuborn fastener and walla. :applause:

Gimmie a sawzall, torch, rubber mallet and a few zip-ties and I can fix anything.

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