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It's Finally Here!!!

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Thanks for helping me post the pics

What I'm doing wrong with the links?

can anyone please explain?

Hi Danceswithtrees

You were right on this one

the suspension is killer and the bike just plain rips.

I took it on a trail ride this weekend to brake her in and it's a blast to ride.

It does not have the torque I was thinking

but maybe is because is still under breakin time

and the engine is still a tad stiffy.

I did install the JD jet kit and it works beautiful.

I can see a 315 very soon on it, :applause:

I just plain love it and so everyone else around here.

I can finally see now why this bike is so popular.

It's very nice to be part of the orange family

thanks,

Charles

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Sweet!!!!!!!!!! I'm still waiting for mine.

You won't be disapointed with the wait.

It's the best bike I have tried so far.

The JD Jetting is a MUST.

Buy it in advance and install it right away.

my bike was pretty much useless without it.

regards,

Charles

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It looks so good I want to go buy another one.

Patience my man ... it'll need 10hrs+ worth of riding before the suspension and engine are bedded in. It'll just get better.

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Is that your garage? If it is, you've got quite a toy collection. That tire rack alone is better stocked than our local dealer. :applause:

Oh and BTW, the Ferret is right. The engine will take some time to loosen up and then she'll really rip.

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Thanks for helping me post the pics

What I'm doing wrong with the links?

can anyone please explain?

Just click on the image icon, the yellow square one that looks like it has a

a couple of mountain tops in it. Then paste the address of the image location in it and click ok, that's it.

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Is that your garage? If it is, you've got quite a toy collection. That tire rack alone is better stocked than our local dealer. :applause:

Oh and BTW, the Ferret is right. The engine will take some time to loosen up and then she'll really rip.

Hey Dances

No, it's not my garage,

it my friends shop who helped put the katoom together.

thanks on the pic info.

Charles

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Hi danceswithtrees

I'm about to make the first oil change (2.5 hours)

(well, actually second)

since I drained the one that came with the bike

only to find out a lot of metal particles in the oil. (scary):applause:

I used the Dumonde Break in oil and tomorrow

I will use their YAP400 15-40 for the first time.

Questions:

1. What's the best position/way to change the oil filter? (i don't want to make a mess)

2. Any pointers in the sequence to change the oil?

3. Do I have to change the oil screen after a while or just clean it.

pardon my ignorance but this is my first KTM and

want to do things right especially during her break in period.

please reply and let me know

thanks,

Charles

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I start by pulling the drain plug on the back of the motor/trans, then I pull the bottom screen and the side screen and let it all drain. The bottom plug will be tight as heck and requires a good whack to break the seal but if this is your second time you know that. I lean the bike side to side to get as much oil as possible out. Then I put the bike on it's right side with the handle bars resting on a wood box I have. I pull the oil filter but there will still be oil in it and I've yet to keep from making a little mess. I suck any oil out of the oil filter cavity with a syringe or turkey baster.

Then I measure 1100 cc of oil, dump a little in the oil filter cavity and install the new filter. Clean all the screens and reinstall them and the drain plugs. Actually I do that first. Put the bike upright and dump in the rest of the oil. Start it up, let it idle a bit and then it's done. I see no reason to have to change the screens and I only change the oil filter every other oil change but I change oil often.

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hey dances

thanks for your always informative help

I have a question...

do you think is better to use the Mitivac machine

to suck all the oil out of the engine in order

to keep the oil mess to a minimum?

there are 2 models available (manual and air assisted)

please let me know

thanks,

Charles

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Hi danceswithtrees

I'm about to make the first oil change (2.5 hours)

(well, actually second)

since I drained the one that came with the bike

only to find out a lot of metal particles in the oil. (scary):applause:

I used the Dumonde Break in oil and tomorrow

I will use their YAP400 15-40 for the first time.

Questions:

1. What's the best position/way to change the oil filter? (i don't want to make a mess)

2. Any pointers in the sequence to change the oil?

3. Do I have to change the oil screen after a while or just clean it.

pardon my ignorance but this is my first KTM and

want to do things right especially during her break in period.

please reply and let me know

thanks,

Charles

Here are a few pointers....

Tools needed:

A Good 8mm Allen Wrench Head (the ones from snap-on/beta/ are the best)

motocross stand

stainless steel basin

1 large syringe ( at least with a 250cc/250ml capacity )

Silicone Hose that can be attached to the syringe's tip, at least 8inches long

Based on your questions;

1. Lay the bike on it's side, with the bars turned left until the steering lock meets the clamp. Lay it on a motocross center stand or something a tad bit higher. Oh.... leave it on 1st gear so it'll be easier to lay it on it's side.

2. The sequence that would best suit it is 1st: with the bike on resting on the side stand, run the bike's engine and put your fuel tab on off position. By the time the engine stops, the oil will be warm enough. Proceed draining ONLY as soon as engine stops.2nd: With a large enough basin on hand, prepare to loosen the allen screw underneath with an 8mm allen wrench. Lightly tap the screw ,since it could have seized itself during the run-in period- I SUGGEST USING A VERY GOOD ALLEN HEAD SINCE STRIPPING THE SCREW WILL LEAD TO POTENTIAL HEADACHES. 3rd: AFter totally removing the 8mm screw underneath (it holds a small screen filter), proceed to loosen the 13mm magnetic drain plug behind. NOTE THAT THE OIL MAY STILL BE HOT ENOUGH TO BURN YA. 3rd: Once the oil has been drained from underneath the 8mm allen bolt and the rear 13mm magnetic drain plug, loosen the side drain plug with the long filter screen but dont remove it completely. Same goes for the 2 8mm bolts that secure the filter housing. Loosen it, but dont remove it or else oil will seep out and make a major mess.

4th: Lay the bike on its side, like how i explained above

5th: Unscrew both the long filter housing screw (13mm, behind shifter) and the filter housing.

6th: Using the syringe, suck out the remaining oil left in both chambers.

7th: Re-install all drain bolts and filter screens (after cleaning them with compressed air, i assume) and follow the torque settings as specified by the manual.

8th: Fill in the oil filter chamber (where you put the main oil filter)halfway though with fresh oil and install new filter. Lube the o-ring with oil and tighten bols as per manual's spec

9th: Lift the bike again and let it rest on the side stand. With around 50cc of fresh oil used to fill the filter chamber halfway through, you should still have 950cc of fresh oil left in the container. USE THE REMAINDER. START. and check oil level.

3. CLean the screens with compressed air.... i usually replace them after 100 hours or so.

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The bottom plug will be tight as heck and requires a good whack to break the seal but if this is your second time you know that.

Hi dances

I did not took out the bottom plug

I only drained the oil and fill with Dumonde Breakin oil

then went out for the break in process.

I didn't even changed the oil filter

because it was new.

Is this ok?

I did something wrong?

please reply

thanks,

Charles

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hey dances

thanks for your always informative help

I have a question...

do you think is better to use the Mitivac machine

to suck all the oil out of the engine in order

to keep the oil mess to a minimum?

there are 2 models available (manual and air assisted)

please let me know

thanks,

Charles

There's no mess draining the oil out of the drain hole and oil screen holes if you have a nice big drain pan. I have one big enough that I can put it under the bike and lay it over and the oil still hits the drain pan.

No matter how much you drain, there will still be oil in the filter cavity which is why you lay the bike on its side. That is when you use a syringe to pull that last little bit of oil out. You could even use a clean rag to soak it up. I wouldn't try to Mitivac the whole engine dry, just drain it when the oil is hot. Getting the engine hot will also get debris and particles off the bottom of the case and suspended in the oil. I also run my bike through the gears on the stand if I can't take it for a quick spin.

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Hi Paolo

wow,

thanks so much for you excellent explanation.

what about if I use the Mitivac machine and take all oil out?

Have anyone tried it?

It looks like it's a painless and clean option.

pretty much like the syringe in principle.

Am I correct?

It looks like a neat tool to take out the oil.

specially me, that I like to change oil often like you dances.

thanks,

Charles

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Hi dances

I did not took out the bottom plug

I only drained the oil with Dumonde Breakin oil

then went out for the break in process.

I didn't even changed the oil filter

because it was new.

Is this ok?

I did something wrong?

please reply

thanks,

Charles

Definately take out the filters especially after break-in. There's going to be debris on them and even metal shavings. Don't be alarmed, it's normal on a fresh engine. The bottom screen plug has givin people trouble. Take a socket about the diameter of the plug or just a little smaller, stick it on an extension and then take a hammer and give it a good whack. Not so hard that you crack the case but hard enough to break the seal. You'll see, even then it's going to require some muscle to get it to break loose. Use a good allen head socket and ratchet and not a little allen wrench. Put anti-seize on it when you reinstall.

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