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1997 Yz 250

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Hello everyone, I am new at this so I hope I'm doing it right. Anyways...

I am trying to find a good bike for really cheap approx. 1,000 dollars. And I found one. Its a 1997 YZ250, 280 kit, fmf pipe and silencer, new controls, pro taper bars, new plastic, new graphics/sc, new sprockets and chain, and good tires. Anyway....I was wondering a couple of things would I have to run race fuel? Can I race it in the 250 class (C and/or B rider)? Is there any major problems with the 97 model? Or anything else i should be watching for or cautios of? Thanks a ton

And is there any way to mount the tank and shrouds from 02 and up models??

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First off you should have posted this in the YZ250 forum.

Unless it is running higher compression you wont need to run race gas. You could probably get away with running it in the 250D but once you get in the 250C class and you are holeshoting 450's on a 10yr old 250 people will start asking questions.

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run it in whichever class you like, i doubt you'll be beating some "serious" guys on their modded out tuned up race bred 450's.

it should be a good bike, buy it up!

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nobody needs to know it's a big bore! 450's will still have a power advantage in most cases.when you start moveing up the ranks,your going to want something more modern anyway.sell it, and upgrade then.

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Hello everyone, I am new at this so I hope I'm doing it right. Anyways...

I am trying to find a good bike for really cheap approx. 1,000 dollars. And I found one. Its a 1997 YZ250, 280 kit, fmf pipe and silencer, new controls, pro taper bars, new plastic, new graphics/sc, new sprockets and chain, and good tires. Anyway....I was wondering a couple of things would I have to run race fuel? Can I race it in the 250 class (C and/or B rider)? Is there any major problems with the 97 model? Or anything else i should be watching for or cautios of? Thanks a ton And is there any way to mount the tank and shrouds from 02 and up models??

Welcome to the forum. There are no bad questions only better ones!

Anyways, sounds like a decent deal. Being that it is a 10 year old steed, you may be able to get away with an offer of $750 cash.

Regarding your questions, you can probably get away with a 50/50 mix of Super/Race fuel. Depends on how it is jetted etc. You an race it in the 250C or B class. The one problem I (and two of my friends) had with my '97 was a bad third wheel gear in the tranny. Mine went after 50 hours and required a basically new tranny. Yamaha never admitted a problem, but the new replacement part was significantly beefed up over the stocker. Make sure to run the bike through the gears and also slowly turn the wheel w/the bike on the stand. Listen for any clicking noises (other then the chain).

Lastly, do not waste your time/money mounting the newer plastic. If the plastic is bad on this bike there is plenty of replacement stuff out there.

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I personally would be concerned about the condition of the bottom end. The big bore kit will put additional stress on the bearings of the crank and rod. Ask the owner if they have ever replaced any of the bottom end components.

Also, as a bike gets older, those years of late oil changes and high-reving races really add up. If the bike has not been maintained well, you will find yourself learning less about riding and more about bike mechanics.

Perhaps be willing to spend a little bit more for a newer bike. A 1k bike is not cheap if you spend another 1k to fix it.

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First off you should have posted this in the YZ250 forum.

Unless it is running higher compression you wont need to run race gas. You could probably get away with running it in the 250D but once you get in the 250C class and you are holeshoting 450's on a 10yr old 250 people will start asking questions.

I dont see a YZ250 forum. :applause:

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97 is a great bike. The concerns about the bottom end may be justified with the big bore kit, though, so follow that advice on checking it out. And work on that price a little - I got my 96 for $1600 four years ago, and that's a lifetime in model years that has elapsed since. Only had to do the top end on it once since. And good advice on the plastics too, don't waste your time trying-the mounting points are different and there is lots of good new and used plastic out there for the bike. I got a whole new set of used ones for $12 on ebay for my bike. And it's an easy bike to work on, and a good bike to learn to work on if you've never done any work on bikes. Get a manual if it doesn't come with it and read it, and follow it. Torque specs are critical if you want it to be right. There is a ton of info that you absolutely need to know in the manual, if you want it to last more than one season. Or one weekend maybe, if you really screw up.

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