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Klx 110 air filter box mods

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I didn't take any photos, but essentially all you do is:

- pull off the air box cover with the filter,

- Remove the screws holding the air box to the frame, and pry it off the carb intake,

- pull it and the snorkel away from the frame,

- remove the snorkel and toss it,

- use a hole saw or other suitable device to remove material from the rear of the air box that is the same size (or just slightly larger) than the opening in the frame where the snorkel used to go through,

- put it back together.

I also used a hole saw to drill out the restrictor baffle in the exhaust, and drilled out the restrictor plug with a 3/4" drill bit in the header. You have to be really careful doing the exhaust mods so you don't drill through the pipe.

After you do all the above, you'll have to rejet the carb. I'm at 6000' plus, so all I did was lift the needle jet with washers, and adjust the pilot jet. I am going to buy some new main jets and get an older ('03) needle jet so it's adjustable by clip.

There are other descriptions in TT on how to tune the bike, but I hope the above helps a bit. I was amazed at the increase in power everywhere, and how much more fun the bike was. I actually ride the bike almost as much as my daughter around the house.

Good luck.

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I didn't take any photos, but essentially all you do is:

- pull off the air box cover with the filter,

- Remove the screws holding the air box to the frame, and pry it off the carb intake,

- pull it and the snorkel away from the frame,

- remove the snorkel and toss it,

- use a hole saw or other suitable device to remove material from the rear of the air box that is the same size (or just slightly larger) than the opening in the frame where the snorkel used to go through,

- put it back together.

I also used a hole saw to drill out the restrictor baffle in the exhaust, and drilled out the restrictor plug with a 3/4" drill bit in the header. You have to be really careful doing the exhaust mods so you don't drill through the pipe.

After you do all the above, you'll have to rejet the carb. I'm at 6000' plus, so all I did was lift the needle jet with washers, and adjust the pilot jet. I am going to buy some new main jets and get an older ('03) needle jet so it's adjustable by clip.

There are other descriptions in TT on how to tune the bike, but I hope the above helps a bit. I was amazed at the increase in power everywhere, and how much more fun the bike was. I actually ride the bike almost as much as my daughter around the house.

Good luck.

Cool Thanks

SD

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I checked the part numbers for 2002, 2003 and 2006 they are all exactly the same. Even the Ca versus 49 state, so I don't think you will gain anything with a 2003 needle jet. The part number is 16187-1228.

If you don't ride at the 6000 to 8000 foot mark, you may want to do a search for the lower altitude setup. Typically it requires a bigger pilot jet (#40) and a bigger main jet (#85), in addition to shimming the needle. I would also suggest, that you hold off on the exhaust mods until you have all the jets handy. I didn't mod the exhaust baffle at all on my sons, just the 5/8" header mod.

The stock header is close to 7/16", and I would start with opening it up to 9/16 or 5/8 and see how you like it. It's one of those thinhgs that you can always open up more, but a little harder to reverse. I think at 5/8" you don't loose any low end power and still make more power up top. Also at 5/8", the area of the whole is actually twice that of the stock header.

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Good advice from westcoast. I was only told that '03 and older carbs had clips instead of non adjustable needles. Even if the stock numbers are identical, there's no guarantee that the jets are the same. I found this out with my wife's TTR 125. You have to bring the jets in to the dealer and cross match them to be certain you have the right ones. You may have to go back a few years to get a needle with clip adjustment, but there should be one available somehow. I used washers, and they worked well. I may have been confusing the year with the pilot jet, which is "D" shaped on mine. Earlier carbs had a slot for a screw driver. You can buy an older jet, buy the proper tool from the dealer, or unscrew the jet and cut a notch for a small screw driver.

You will definitely have to adjust the jetting for your altitude/temp, and having jets at the ready is a good idea. I was lucky because I'm at a high altitude, and the bike is jetted lean from the factory. It all worked out fine after the airbox and pipe mods, but if we go any lower in elevation, I'll need to rejet.

Regarding the exhaust mods, I agree that incremental increase in the header is a good plan, expecially if you want to maintain low end torque and a more mellow power delivery. I chose 3/4 right away because I had the drill bit handy, and was pretty sure I wouldn't botch the job. There is still extra material to remove in the restrictor, but I will wouldn't dare go larger for fear of breaking a weld or losing low end power. As it is, the bike pulls very well right off idle.

After all was done, I'm very happy with the way the bike runs from idle to max rpm. My daughter is much more comfortable on the bike because she has enough power now to make it up hills that were previously too intimidating. There was no major increase in noice (a bit of snorting from the airbox, and a couple extra decibels from the exhaust).

Cheers.

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Thats a good link, but not so much for the airbox mod, since it shows replacing the stock setup with a pod filter. My foot pegs are based on their idea from the RM 85. It's too bad that don't list an email address. I wanted to ask about the right year for the foot pergs. I just took a guess went with 2003 RM pegs, but had to mod the tops a little and use the RM return spring. The 2003 KLX110 air mix screw is different, it's Kawasaki part number 16014-1093.

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I have an 08 klx 110 and I removed the snorkel and have a tbr m6 exhaust. When I took the snorkel out it ran weird so I put it back in until my new jets (85,40) come in. I have the washers from radioshack and I think they are the right ones but what do I do with them. My exhaust also sucks in after u let off throttle?? Any suggestions because the M6 does not come with a baffle. How do u shim stock needle?

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Most people advice not to drill the airbox further, but I did it before reading those advices. Anyway, I use a pantyhose on my stock airbox to keep dirt from getting in. My air filters last about 3-4 times longer now and I cannot feel any loss in power. It's like I have 2 clean air chambers to get fresh air.

If somebody wants to copy my setup, I highly recommend understanding where to drill the airbox! You can only drill it on the upper part, before the airfilter. Anywhere else and your engine will get dirt sucked in.

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