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What oil are you using. Dopes the oil have to be specific for a bike or can it be regular oil? My bike is an 82 xr200r.

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What oil are you using. Dopes the oil have to be specific for a bike or can it be regular oil? My bike is an 82 xr200r.

Winter: Mobil 1 0-40 (below 30)

Spring/Fall: Mobil 1 10-40 (30-50)

Summer: Mobil 1 15-50 (50-100)

"O"

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Shell Rotella-T 15-40 wt. every Three rides. Walmart save $$ No clutch slippage. Keeps on ticking.

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What ever 10-40 is on sale at Kragen. Valvoline High Mileage last time.

I have 3 used bikes that need lots of oil changes to flush out the old sludge.

Looks like I need to look into the Shell Rotella.

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i heard you need motorcycle oil, for what it costs, im not chancing it my gf's xr, so ima spend the money to get motorcycle oil, after all they are motorcycles, not cars, compression and so on is different then a car so...i might be wrong though but my 2 cents

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I use AMSOIL. Good stuff. You shoud use motorcycle specific oil. I've seen guys get away with using car oil. Sure it lubricates, that's what oil does, but car oils aren't chemical made to handle clutch abuse. I sure wouldn't want a bike where the owner used car oil. :applause:

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Rotella-T if works, must be good. 2-3 rides change it @ $2.58 a qrt. Shifts good motor sounds good no blue smoke plug looks good no clutch slipping whatelse.

Oh oh I'm getting drawn in to this Oil thread thingie, a never ending thread. Bye

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I'm using Redline synthectic 10-40. It was recommended by the Megacycle people. They also said never use automotive oil in a motorcycle.

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I have a XR200 and I run Belray EXP Semi-Synthetic 10-40wt. oil, i used to run Honda's oil, but then someone there said for how i ride in the trails, that Belray might work better which it did, i've also heard Amsoil's Synthetic is nice too.

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Don't run "EC" Energy Conservation oil.

That would include all synthetic 30 wt oil. 0-30, 5-30, 10-30

Don't run oil with moly additives. That would include Honda transmission oil for CRF250/450's.

I run car oil, but I change it often. It is a cheap way to clean out a grungy engine. (one motorcycle is 34 years old.)

Any oil is better than no oil.

Clean oil is better than dirty oil.

Synthetic is better than dino oil. (more expensive too)

Motorcycle might be better than car oil. (lots of debates on the subject)

Check it and change it often. :applause:

Mobil 1 15-50 is the only automobile synthetic I would run in a motorcycle.

Problems that occur when switching from regular oil to synthetic oil are not caused by the synthetic oil. It is caused by the old varnish and grunge from the regular oil being floated up by the synthetic oil. When swtching to synthetic change the oil early to clear out the old sludge.

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The Rotella T 15-40 I was around is what's somtimes refered to as a mixed fleet oil! Where you have gasoline and diesel engines and want to cover them with one oil. Chevron's Delo 400 15-40 is another one of these oils. We used Rotella T 15-40 on one farm I worked on, Delo 400 15-40 on another. We could use one oil on everything from small gas Honda pump and lawn mower engines to pickup and cars to medium diesel to large Deutz, Cummins, Caterpillar and John Deere diesel engines. Less chance of mistakes this way!:applause: Used to be whenever you saw 15-40 oil it was diesel rated. Seems like there were some gasoline engine warrantys that would not allow these 15-40 oils. Had to do with the diesel additives. I think it was a young guy fresh out of tech school I know that was telling this. The reason we see more of these oils out in auto parts stores is because of all the diesel pickups on the road these days. Even though they may work, I tend to wonder about these oils in a motorcycle engine.:lol:

It's not about being a car oil and a motorcycle oil. It's all about the oil meeting the viscosity and API specs the engine calls for. Not the picture on the bottle.

Don't run oil with moly additives.........???:cry: The oldest Honda Performance company in the country has for well over thirty years now! I myself have for thirty years this year. We run it in the Old School XR200R in a semi synthetic 20W 50 form. (They prefer it in a non syn #40 for 4-stroke singles.) Lubed the cyl, piston and rings well with it on assembly, started it with the crankcase filled with it also. Smoked for a couple minutes till assembly oil was burned out and three years of hard riding later is just barely starting to use a little oil.:applause:

:cry: As far as which oil is best......................the one that makes you feel the fastest!!!:eek:

Old School Al

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I'm using 20-50 Penzoil engine oil in both my 02 XR 200R and my 04 CRF 250X. I know it may sound like heavy oil, but it was recomended to me after my 200 was burning oil like a pig because of excessive engine wear using 10-30. It's amazing how well it works in my 250X. When I rebuilt my 250 in November, the sleve looked brand new after 150 hours of use, it still had all of it's cross hatches on the sleve (most 250X's are needing arebuilt evey 50-100 hours of use).

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Don't run "EC" Energy Conservation oil.

Don't run oil with moly additives. That would include Honda transmission oil for CRF250/450's.

FWIW, I think the tranmission oil is the one with no Mo, not the other way around.

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FWIW, I think the tranmission oil is the one with no Mo, not the other way around.

You are right. The engine only oil has moly.

This weeks oil on sale was Chevron 10-40. :bonk:

I'm doing lots of oil changes to clean out the old motors.

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