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how many hours to break in new rings.

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I put new rings in my bike. 82 XR200R. (like you guys don't already know that as much as I say it) I have about 30 minutes total on the new rings. Still have lots of smoke and raw oil coming out of the exhaust. I am just wondering how long until i should start to expect it to go away. How many hours or so... I quick trip around the block today (I couldn't resist) and my entire rear fender was covered with oil.

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Fender covered with oil? Sounds like you have a worse problem than unseated rings. Is there an o-ring on a cylinder bolt in the head gasket you left out letting you pump oil into the cylinder?

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Im having a problem like that too with my xr100. I just installed a BBr 120 kit on it and rode it around hard by starting off in 2nd and short shifting and just keeping a load on the motor. After about an hour on the motor I cant seem to get the rings to seal. Is not leaving oil on my fender but when hard on the throttle theres a thick big cloud of blue smoke and it even smokes at idle. I dont understand it. It runs fine otherwise. The oil ring kept falling out of the groove when I was installing it so it may be messed up. I ordered a new set of rings to try it again. But I dont get what went wrong.

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A cracked exhaust valve guide seal would definitely cause it. It will run perfect, but smoke like a 2-stroke. It might be worth checking. If the exhaust port is thick with oil, that's kinda a dead give away. It happened a lot with out big cammed 100's. Although I don't know about the 200's. It never happened to me. Maybe Al will chime in, he should know.

Hey Tiresmoken, it could be your exhaust valve seal too. I don't know how BBR cams are, but on the ones we run, we have to machine the guide down so the rocker wouldn't crush the seal. Even when we machined them, it happened about 50% of the time.

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I'll check that valve guide seal, but I don't recall it being cracked. I think i'll get new for both valves and put them in. I'll check the intake and the exhaust for oil.

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I was checking on Bike Bandit. Would I possibly need the exhaust valve guide or just the oring seal? For the xr100. I dont keep the bike here so its hard to just go and check it out.

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A cracked exhaust valve guide seal would definitely cause it. It will run perfect, but smoke like a 2-stroke. It might be worth checking. If the exhaust port is thick with oil, that's kinda a dead give away. It happened a lot with out big cammed 100's. Although I don't know about the 200's. It never happened to me. Maybe Al will chime in, he should know.

Hey Tiresmoken, it could be your exhaust valve seal too. I don't know how BBR cams are, but on the ones we run, we have to machine the guide down so the rocker wouldn't crush the seal. Even when we machined them, it happened about 50% of the time.

socalxr

Valve stem seal damage is usually caused when installing a cam with more lift than stock. Have to maintain proper clearance between the valve spring retainer and end of valve guide with seal installed, at max lift. Powroll always has a spec for this with their cams, they know what is needed. Not enough valve spring may affect a little.......maybe. The more lift you add, the more chance this is of becoming a problem. This is pretty much the same with any engine. I've never had a problem, but have always been careful to maintain proper spec. Also a valve seal can be damaged by over compressing valve spring with spring compressor when installing keepers.:applause:

As much oil as this one is pumping out, it's more than a valve seal problem. Some of the old engines had no stem seals at all.

With raw oil coming out the end of the exhaust pipe, the ex port will be coated with oil no matter where it is coming from.:applause: As the ex port is the path to the pipe from the cylinder! On a engine that is smokeing a bit, you may see excessive oily carbon buildup around the valve guide and valve when the seal isn't doing it's job.

This make any sense..............?

Old School Al

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Sounds like a cylinder wall / ring problem to me. Walk us through exactly what you did to the top end, ALL details?

Crank case vent is clear, not plugged? Rings not upside down (markings are facing up)? Ring end gap in spec (right size rings for bore size)?

Old School Al

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stock size ring gap for my stock bore. All markings on the rings are right side up. I knocked the glaze off with some sand paper, but did not hone the cylinder. I read that knocking the glaze off was enough. Crank case vent is clear. I guess I should get a hone and hone the cylinder and try that. I can also check that a valve guide seal is not cracked. I put new gaskets on the cylinder and the head. If there is supposed to be an o-ring anywhere I did not put one in, because my new gaskets did not come with one. I'll try the hone and checking for the cracked guide seal then post back up. Is there anything else I should check for that could be causing this much oil, or any oil for that matter, to be coming into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust? I would rather check for everything at once and correct any problems, or potential problems and fix them now.

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Better check to see if o-ring is used with head gasket you are using. I would tend to think you may have a cylinder wall / ring problem.

Old School Al

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Thanx al and also socalxr, I am going to check into this. If this wind will settle down out here in the desert in socal, I will get this motor out and apart today. Then I can start checking it over. I will go ahead and hone the cylinder so the rings can seat again. I will also double check the dots on the rings are facing up. I will also check the valve guide seals and make sure they are not cracked. I will also try to verify if I need an o-ring with my head gasket or not.

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How do I change the valveguide seal? Do I take the valve out and the guide will just pull out?

The old valve seal will slip off the end of the guide, and you push the new one on. Be careful not to distort and damage it. Also check the valve stem keeper groove for a burr, it could damage the new seal if it does. If it has much of a burr, you'll feel it when you try to remove the valve from the guide. Best to remove it before you take the valve out, as it can scratch the guide if you force it out. The valve guide should NOT pull out of the head, if it does you have problems.:applause: Valve guides must fit super tight in the head, something to keep a eye on also. Once in a great while you'll find a loose one.

Old School Al

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Better make sure the bore is really ok to, as it's pretty old to still be at stock size. Piston good, ring lands on the piston ok? Also when you hone you'll want a pretty fine stone, don't want too rough a finish, and proper cross hatch.

Old School Al

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