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FCR Upgrade

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I have been following the posts for a while and thanks to Russ S, recent post finally took the plunge and purchased a FCR 39 off eBay that came off an 05 YFZ450. I finally got around to installing it today on my S. It was a tight fit, but after loosening the bolts to the subframe I was able to get it in. At first the bike would only run with the choke on and would die immediately after the choke was turned off. I pulled the carb back out and realized that I had not installed the correct size main air jet, but didn't figure this out until I had checked all the other jets and disassembled a fair portion of the carb. I put it back in the bike and the it started right up without any further problems . The bike seems to pull stronger and quicker :applause: then it did before, but I will be curious what it runs like once the weather warms up a little (55F today).

Here is my setup:

Elevation 1300'

3X3 MOD

Stock Exhaust

EMP needle @ 3rd clip

200 main air jet

100 pilot air jet

155 main fuel jet

45 pilot fuel jet

Fuel screw 1.5 turns

Should I change anything for warmer weather?

One thing that I don't like about the whole install is the petcock almost touches the carb and makes for a tight bend on the fuel hose to the carb. I also had to file on the petcock lever to get it to work in both the ON an RES positions with a stock tank because the lever would hit the tank and I could barely turn it to ON and couldn't even come close to RES. Has anyone else had this problem? The petcock I used is part # 2GU-24500-02-00. I would post a pic but apparently I am not allowed to do so yet. Would I have this problem if I installed a Clark tank?

Thanks,

screechingdemon

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Don't have any issues with the Clarke when it comes to the petcock... there is an issue with the choke not being able to fully extend. This is easily solved though by cutting the choke

button off and shortening the shaft a 1/2 inch (drummeling).

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What parts did you order to get it to work? People say that the YFZ FCR carb won't work with the DRZ b/c it doesn't have the removeable intake bell. I found out after I bought an '04. I just got the carb but haven't tried putting it on yet.

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Hey screechingdemon

I recently did the FCR and the same 24500-02 petcock on the metal tank like you did, along with the same clearance issues. I ended up running the outlet out the bottom of the valve and trimming the short end of the lever. (still cant use reserve) My only thought is to get a second stock tank spacer for the petcock and use longer bolts to lower it down enough to use reserve. With that of course you have another seam that could leak..

cut.jpg

clearance.jpg

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I have been following the posts for a while and thanks to Russ S, recent post finally took the plunge and purchased a FCR 39 off eBay that came off an 05 YFZ450. I finally got around to installing it today on my S. It was a tight fit, but after loosening the bolts to the subframe I was able to get it in. At first the bike would only run with the choke on and would die immediately after the choke was turned off. I pulled the carb back out and realized that I had not installed the correct size main air jet, but didn't figure this out until I had checked all the other jets and disassembled a fair portion of the carb. I put it back in the bike and the it started right up without any further problems . The bike seems to pull stronger and quicker :applause: then it did before, but I will be curious what it runs like once the weather warms up a little (55F today).

Here is my setup:

Elevation 1300'

3X3 MOD

Stock Exhaust

EMP needle @ 3rd clip

200 main air jet

100 pilot air jet

155 main fuel jet

45 pilot fuel jet

Fuel screw 1.5 turns

Should I change anything for warmer weather?

One thing that I don't like about the whole install is the petcock almost touches the carb and makes for a tight bend on the fuel hose to the carb. I also had to file on the petcock lever to get it to work in both the ON an RES positions with a stock tank because the lever would hit the tank and I could barely turn it to ON and couldn't even come close to RES. Has anyone else had this problem? The petcock I used is part # 2GU-24500-02-00. I would post a pic but apparently I am not allowed to do so yet. Would I have this problem if I installed a Clark tank?

Thanks,

screechingdemon

almost the same set up i have.only exception is i'm running a emn needle and a 42 pilot.i could not get any response with the fuel screw with the 45 pj.after i put in the 42 i still didn't get the response i wanted but i put on one of those scary fast power now intake bells and i got the response i needed.i usually keep the the same setup all year unless it gets real hot(over 34C)then i'll drop the needle 1 clip.i'm at 1400ft,and i'm running a full yosh rs3

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Hey screechingdemon

I recently did the FCR and the same 24500-02 petcock on the metal tank like you did, along with the same clearance issues. I ended up running the outlet out the bottom of the valve and trimming the short end of the lever. (still cant use reserve) My only thought is to get a second stock tank spacer for the petcock and use longer bolts to lower it down enough to use reserve. With that of course you have another seam that could leak..

cut.jpg

clearance.jpg

I ended up triming the petcock lever down to about half the width and I can now turn it to reserve. It may be a little difficult to turn with gloves on while driving but at least now I have reserve.

I just went back and looked at your pictures and your petcock fuel outlet is on the bottom, mine comes out the back which gives me the clearance issue on the carb. What was your part number again?

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How was your chassis clearance and throttle cables?

I didn't have any chassis clearance issues other then the black box (I believe is the oil separator) on the right side of bike beside the carb, but got it all to fit pretty well once I loosed the bolt to the black box. The throttle cable clearance was fine also.

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I ended up triming the petcock lever down to about half the width and I can now turn it to reserve. It may be a little difficult to turn with gloves on while driving but at least now I have reserve.

I just went back and looked at your pictures and your petcock fuel outlet is on the bottom, mine comes out the back which gives me the clearance issue on the carb. What was your part number again?

Mine is the 2GU-24500-02-00 same as yours. Mine had the same clearance issue so I removed it from the rear exit and switched it to the bottom. The nipple is basiclly just pressure fit in there so you can carefully turn it out with some padding and your channel locks or vise grips. I then used micrometers to pick a drill bit to open up the bottom exit. (the petcock body has spots for a front, bottom, and rear exit) The drill job made a tight fit but not as tight as I liked so I gave it a light coat of JB Weld to good measure. To seal up the old rear exit hole I cut a very short length of vaccum hose and forced it into the opening. I then threaded a self tapping screw into the hose. So far.... Real good... I dont think it will ever leak..

I normally dont cobble stuff like that but the rear clearance issues got my all fired up so I turned into Mr. Rigger...

Oh... and ericyz4.... that radial knob is a good suggestion(i hadnt seen those before) but i think the clearance is still to tight for it... on mine the clearance between the front plart of the petcock and the bottom seam on the tank would have to be measured with feeler guages. Its REALLY close..

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o266/Willz7/wrvalve.jpg

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Mine is the 2GU-24500-02-00 same as yours. Mine had the same clearance issue so I removed it from the rear exit and switched it to the bottom. The nipple is basiclly just pressure fit in there so you can carefully turn it out with some padding and your channel locks or vise grips. I then used micrometers to pick a drill bit to open up the bottom exit. (the petcock body has spots for a front, bottom, and rear exit) The drill job made a tight fit but not as tight as I liked so I gave it a light coat of JB Weld to good measure. To seal up the old rear exit hole I cut a very short length of vaccum hose and forced it into the opening. I then threaded a self tapping screw into the hose. So far.... Real good... I dont think it will ever leak..

I normally dont cobble stuff like that but the rear clearance issues got my all fired up so I turned into Mr. Rigger.

Thanks for the info Willz, I may have to try the same with my petcock this weekend. I just know that if I leave it how it is the carb will wear a hole in my fuel line and knowing my luck I will be out in the middle of no where when it happens.

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On a positive note with that petcock mod the choke knob works fine as-is. It comes close but compared to the clearances seen on everything else, it clears the petcock by a mile.

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I modified the petcock outlet to come out the bottom and plugged the previous hole similarly to what Willz did and I have lots of clearance now. I also removed the main fuel tube out of the stock petcock and swapped it with the one in the new petcock so I still have the same fuel level as I did before when I would have to switch over to reserve. The tube was easy to pull out, but a little more difficult to put back in. It isn't perfectly round anymore, but one will never see it once it is in the tank.

Now I am just waiting on my rear SM rim and 41 tooth sprocket to come in. :applause:

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i found the 41 a bit high and have a 44 on the way from a fellow tt"er so i am hopig it will get a bit more pep

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i found the 41 a bit high and have a 44 on the way from a fellow tt"er so i am hopig it will get a bit more pep

I am currently running 15/44 with my dirt wheels and was planning on running 15/41 with the sm wheels during the weekly commute. 15/44 isn't quite enough on top end for me now.

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