Which leak jet??

[TheRedRider]

Did the ap mod today.... 06 250r I read all posts and when I took it apart I realized that if I didn't grind the rivit then the AP wouldn't get a full stroke. So I ground it down ......... good?? bad??? Almost enough so that at WOT there was about a milimeter gap between the screw and pump arm. Then i turned the screw about a half turn to close the remaining gap and wired it up. My bike came with a 172 main and 55 leak. Should I change them or leave them?? It did seem to run better on the stand (when it got hot) But would still bog if I really cranked on it. If I were to adjust the fuel screw should I go in or out???

[mikerides33]

Go in if anything. You are getting richer.

[TheRedRider]

I will try that... so do you think I should get like a 58 or 60 leak jet??

[mikerides33]

If I were you I would try the 70. Some say to shave the rivet and some don't. I tried the shaved rivet on my 05 and it bogged. On the 06 it could be worse because the air flowing through the carb is slower. You are getting a rich bog on the stand with the rivet shaved so that is why I would recomend a 70. If that's no good perhaps just try a standard 06 diapragm w/out shaving it. Be careful because it's no fun cracking it with that bog when you are timing it through obstacles.

[Honda_250f_rider]

On my 06 I shaved the rivet to about 2mm and wired it, took out the float bowl baffle, and drilled out the leak jet to = a size 75. I haven't got to ride it much yet (snow), just up and down the driveway... So-far I am happy w/ it.

[TheRedRider]

so if I were not to shave it then I would screw in the timing screw until there is no gap at WOT??? could I not just screw the screw in some more?? It doesn't seem rich it's acting like its cold blooded when you hit is it goes bahh It did this before the mod.... But once it got hot seemed to ride fine as long as I kept the r's up. (would only bog if I was kinda lugging it out of a corner and just hit it) But it also acts rich because when it does bog on the stand if i just blip it a few times then I can snap it open.

[honda 12]

have 06 shaved diap&leak jet 45 no baffle 45 pilot 172 main no bog sea level.

[the white stallion]

should've shaved the rivet on the 250's.

[TheRedRider]

did your bike have the 45 pilot stock??

[lfd5107]

Did the ap mod today.... 06 250r I read all posts and when I took it apart I realized that if I didn't grind the rivit then the AP wouldn't get a full stroke. So I ground it down ......... good?? bad??? Almost enough so that at WOT there was about a milimeter gap between the screw and pump arm. Then i turned the screw about a half turn to close the remaining gap and wired it up. My bike came with a 172 main and 55 leak. Should I change them or leave them?? It did seem to run better on the stand (when it got hot) But would still bog if I really cranked on it. If I were to adjust the fuel screw should I go in or out???

your on the right track. i went to the honda shop and got the biggest leak honda offered. i think it was a 60 or 65. whatever it was it fixed it. no bog at all and i did exactly what you did.